Yes, it's true that on modern-era vehicles, the electronic fuel pump is located in or very near the fuel tank. Back in the dark ages, when our Corvettes were built, fuel pumps were mechanically activated by a push rod riding on the camshaft, and were mounted to the engine block.

The hoses are 3/8", but don't attempt to replace them with a piece of hose cut from a spool. The originals were molded into something resembling an S-curve to clear obstacles, and if you curve a straight piece to fit, it will most likely kink and restrict your fuel supply. ZIP sells pre-molded hoses.

The object that you marked in blue in one of your pics is your horn relay. It will have a red 'hot' wire attached. The item marked in green is your brake proportioning valve.

Here's a photo that shows where under the master cylinder and power booster your two wiring harnesses (engine harness and forward lamp harness) attach to the bulkhead connector (which is the back side of your fuse block). The master cyl, power booster, vacuum tank and steering column are not in place, so you can get a clean look at what's up.

Larry

 

Lighted and circled the bulkhead connector.

1982 was the first year for an electric fuel pump all previous were mechanical.

 

Fuel Hose - Do I need to buy one or two? I saw two lines connected to the metal lines but only one rubber hose from the bottom of the pump.

horn relay/Blue - my horn doesn’t work at the steering column, if the relay doesn’t work - could it cause it to not start?

now, the two relays(same as the distribution block?), I have a circuit tester, but I haven’t super learned how to use it yet.

I’m assuming my brake proportioning valve is not relevant?

 

mine look absolutely terrible.

 

Example of the 2 fuel hoses that should be replaced ASAP.
Spend the extra $ to get the correct hoses...
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/1970...-114781-1.html
Use the spring style clamps that come with the hoses.
A little more difficult to install/remove but the wont cut the hose like the worm clamps do.
Also, drive the car onto ramps to jet the nose of the car higher than the fuel level.
This will help so fuel won't pour out of the hoses when you remove them.

 

ohh yes! I’ve already been told that those “clamps” are terrible for anything with fuel, I had them on my fuel filter and someone was like “no no”. So now if I ever change any kind of hose I’m always going to use the tightening ones!
but thank you for the link! I only found a single S hose which seemed wrong!!

but I’d love to get it up on ramps, but I can’t start it to drive it up on ramps(hopefully soon though). 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

 

One is a return line and the other that looks like a "S" is the supply. The "S" hose is formed as an "S" because the area it is installed is a tight space and a regular hose would pinch closed.

https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...f%3fcount%3d90

https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...f%3fcount%3d99

 

the fuel hoses will carry fuel for a few more minutes of run time. get the starting issue sorted out first. order the correct hoses and you have a few days to get it to start. now, 2 minutes later no int light, no click, no nothing. check, clean and re attach every big wire both ends of the wire. both battery terminals. ground under car. (unlikely, but do em all) big post on starter. engine to frame ground. can't find it? run another. come to think about it, i do not see that cable by your starter nose. so. easiest i think is to run a wire from the engine side to the frame side of the motor mount. 1 foot long 2 gauge. or climb under and find a good bolt on the frame and another on the block that are close enough. although you could actually run the wire from the water pump on the engine to the frame all the way at the back of the car. makes no diff electrically, but stupidly long. but you get my point, i think. there is no hard fast rule says either end of the wire has to be within a certain distance of the starter. aesthetics or fung shwei or the corvette gods would prefer it be mounted in the original location... if that wire is missing, the power could find a ground path through the length of the driveshaft to the rear spring and one minute it could ground and the next open circuit. or through the clutch pivot assy. shift linkage auto or manual. but all this stuff is connected through rubber bushings of some sort that won't pass electricity until a piece of metal squeezes past a cut in a bushing and closes the circuit. hence the big wire frame to block.

 

Did you follow up and see if the ignition switch is adjusted correctly?

 

That looks like an aftermarket junction box.

Mine looks like this:

 

I have absolutely no idea how to do this.. my steering column is smooth. Without taking it apart, I have no idea what the innards are like?.?

 

You don't have to take the column apart.
The ignition switch is on the lower part of the column, at least check the screws holding it to the column are tight.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5

 

so I’m apparently really struggling with this step, I’ve always known that if I ever had to work on my sterling column(or area) then I’d be screwed.
but I think I maybe found it.. it’s the only thing under there that I couldn’t see and was big enough to be a sensor that I saw online (marked in orange)

I know I know, I’ll get there slowly.

 

This should give you a better idea of its location.





Lower this panel 3 screws you should be able to see it then

 

did you take the seat out? way more comfy on the back that way. but you have a lack of electricity TO the switch. don't mess with the column until you at least have interior lights and such.

 

I know that I might be beating around the bush, but I’d like to do everything besides the steering column first.
I did not move the seat, and I have interior lights sometimes.
I’m about to hook up my battery and see what it’s going to do. It’s been unhooked completely for a couple days.

my battery is hooked up.

the floor light is on,
As is my parking brake light indicator, door ajar light(door post is wonky), headlights/tail lights come on(including dashboard indicator). The door even did the buzzer that says “your keys are in the ignition”

I have not tried to start it yet, even though everything inside says it should start.


edit, I just tried to start it. I heard something try to engage, maybe the starter(I think, but it kinda sounded like it was coming from the back rightish) and then nothing.
now, I do not have any interior lights. Not even my floor lights when the door opens. Not even sparks around my negative terminal when I reconnect the grommet to it - it’s like something told my battery to stop sending power completely.
I’m going to disconnect/reconnect the battery and see if my interior comes back but I won’t try to start it.

 

grommet? is there post pic of neg terminal and cable. you don't want the rubber side facing the negative post. look at pics 3 and 4. is the cable facing the wrong way and rubber getting between the cable and the post? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-72...-/143299053259 cuz you describe a high amp draw causing an open circuit in the big wires. most common is the 2 battery terminals. but this car has 2 positive and 4 negative junctions where this can happen. this has nothing to do with the ignition switch.

 

there is no rubber on my new cable, it’s just an over the counter copper cable. Metal on both ends.

 

ok. it is still one of those 6 contacts that are intermittant.

 

so my
1: negative battery - ground is good.
2 : my positive battery terminal is good(from what I can gather having interior lights)


how do I start eliminating the 3 other grounds (the engine to frame?, starter to frame? And water pump to frame I think?).
and my other positive(the starter side?)

I’m pretty familiar with wires, and I just got my own crimping tool so hopefully I’ll be able to crimp my own wires. So point me in a direction and I’ll do it. Another responder said they couldn’t really see my grounding wires in the pics I posted and there wasn’t any harm in attaching more, so no biggie to me, grounds are good. I don’t mind.