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Ok here is the wire and why it is so hard to find.
no no I mean the cables I just bought
I have 8 different things in my head that I’m trying to do right now. Now I’m like cable from alternator to radiator..
what is that cable?.?.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 31, 2021 at 03:43 PM.
it did not start, I had interior lights/dashboard.
turn the key, click, nothing,
and now I don’t have anything interior.
so since it’s properly grounded, and I have power. Is it my starter wires and or something in my steering column?
and after it fails to start, when I’m disconnected my battery. I don’t even get sparks at my negative terminal. (Just a tiny bit of sparks are normal when connecting/disconnecting right?)
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 31, 2021 at 05:01 PM.
You seem to have the same problem I've been having for about a year. Get in and click, click, turn over slowly, click, click turn over slowly then start. My battery is good, Charging system good. Battery ground good. Made a new block to frame battery cable out of copper welding wire (0 gauge) same thing. Now I'm down to what I suspected all along, the battery + to starter. I've had my engine out a couple of times and each time I said to myself to replace that cable but I didn't. The reason I should have replaced it as I had to cut off about 1/2 inche of the original cable because the copper was so corroded it wire insulation was bulged out and the copper had turned green ( copper corrosion). I know how difficult it's going to be to replace that cable because when I installed my new engine I also replaced the trans tunnel insulation and the cable runs behind that.
I'm going to tackle that after I finish my Fiero seat install. I'm not looking forward to it.
You seem to have the same problem I've been having for about a year. Get in and click, click, turn over slowly, click, click turn over slowly then start. My battery is good, Charging system good. Battery ground good. Made a new block to frame battery cable out of copper welding wire (0 gauge) same thing. Now I'm down to what I suspected all along, the battery + to starter. I've had my engine out a couple of times and each time I said to myself to replace that cable but I didn't. The reason I should have replaced it as I had to cut off about 1/2 inche of the original cable because the copper was so corroded it wire insulation was bulged out and the copper had turned green ( copper corrosion). I know how difficult it's going to be to replace that cable because when I installed my new engine I also replaced the trans tunnel insulation and the cable runs behind that.
I'm going to tackle that after I finish my Fiero seat install. I'm not looking forward to it.
i think I’m just going to have to push it up on ramps and replace my whole positive cable, and probably my starter(it’s iffy when it’s hot) and all the associated wires.
i also had the same nasty wire bulge with my negative cable, so it’s probably my positive cable. Which I though all along, but I thought I’d try things that would be less hell first
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 31, 2021 at 05:25 PM.
turn key. Click. Nothing. Reach behind you and put a wrench on both battery terminals. Loosen. Wiggle wire. Tighten. Light come back on? Which one? Did you remove and reinstall hot wire on starter?
If it is the main hot wire, you can do a test version of that too. Especially since you’re buying your room wire and putting your own ends on. Get a piece long enough to go from the battery out the right door under the hood down to the starter. Crip two ends on it and hook it up. If that starts the car, it is now a couple of feet too long to go up the driveshaft tunnel to the starter. So you basically shorten it down to the correct length as you run it. You might find it easier to tie-wear it to the existing batt cable. Tearing the old one out and attaching the new one to the floor is unnecessary work if you’re not worried about a judge looking underneath and getting show points deducted.
turn key. Click. Nothing. Reach behind you and put a wrench on both battery terminals. Loosen. Wiggle wire. Tighten. Light come back on? Which one? Did you remove and reinstall hot wire on starter?
I’ve completely disconnected/reconnected my batter and it’s still nothing. After it fails to start it’s completely nothing.
I’m currently bypassing my positive cable.
but I need the 2 foot cable for the alternator/radiator ground to be my new positive cable and I don’t know if that’s going to mess up my ground.
Once you get it to start, get it up on the ramps and replace that ground cable. How would that 2 foot cable work as a positive cable? I think you need eight or 9 feet to get from the battery positive terminal out the side of the car under the hood down to the starter. That’s the way to be sure it’s is or is not the positive cable and then you have a positive cable to string underneath the car and shorten the foot or two afterwards. But this way you don’t have to go to the trouble of installing it and then find out it was still something else. First, take the cable off the starter clean up the end on the starter put it back on.
Last edited by derekderek; May 31, 2021 at 06:43 PM.
Once you get it to start, get it up on the ramps and replace that ground cable. How would that 2 foot cable work as a positive cable? I think you need eight or 9 feet to get from the battery positive terminal out the side of the car under the hood down to the starter. That’s the way to be sure it’s is or is not the positive cable and then you have a positive cable to string underneath the car and shorten the foot or two afterwards. But this way you don’t have to go to the trouble of installing it and then find out it was still something else. First, take the cable off the starter clean up the end on the starter put it back on.
I’m putting my battery beside the tire to see if it is the positive cable, I don’t want to buy an 8ish(?) foot cable unless I know I need it.
I’m planning on putting my battery beside my car, hooking the positive/starter and the negative and seeing if it’ll start. But yeah, my 2 foot cable might not be long enough - I planned to put my battery beside and run the cable under the car just to see if it’ll start.
if it does, then I’ll know that I’ll need to pull and replace my 92 or 96 inch cable. I’ve heard it’s an absolutely hell nightmare.
but, am I okay to unhook the Alternator/radiator ground? Because my jumper cable negative will be hooked up to it.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 31, 2021 at 07:17 PM.
I have it bypassed, and my floor light came on. But I’m honestly scared to start it.
edit, turned my key to accessories and I have my dash lights/headlights, brake lights, and the buzzer went off when I opened my door - key in ignition.
And yes, if it starts then someone will have to hold and walk the battery while I drive. Or I’ll just reset it up tomorrow with a longer cable.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 31, 2021 at 08:21 PM.
So, using jumper cables for the negative? Start it goddamnit. Ya know it didn’t even occur to me to shorten the pos cable by moving the battery. What if, you set the battery on top of the air filter. And then use a regular ground wire from the battery to the block.
Last edited by derekderek; May 31, 2021 at 08:24 PM.
i have it bypassed, and my floor light came on. But i’m honestly scared to start it.
Edit, turned my key to accessories and i have my dash lights/headlights, brake lights, and the buzzer went off when i opened my door - key in ignition.
and yes, if it starts then someone will have to hold and walk the battery while i drive. Or i’ll just reset it up tomorrow with a longer cable.
I have it bypassed, and my floor light came on. But I’m honestly scared to start it.
edit, turned my key to accessories and I have my dash lights/headlights, brake lights, and the buzzer went off when I opened my door - key in ignition.
And yes, if it starts then someone will have to hold and walk the battery while I drive. Or I’ll just reset it up tomorrow with a longer cable.
