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now I get to replace my whole positive cable!
and the thinner, more plastic battery wire is okay long term right? It’s much less rubbery than the old wires.
When you get the car in the air get a good penetration oil apply it multiple times over several day on the fasteners holding the positive cable. Before you try to remove them. They most likely will be badly corroded and the studs will snap off. Your next alternative is to place the replacement cable next to the original and use cable zip ties.
It would be best also to purchase a correct direct cable replacement like these.
replace the starter with the smaller more modern permanent magnet type. https://www.ebay.com/itm/30303218998...IAAOSwC-JbO~MW they are 50 to 300 bucks. people swear by the 200 buck versions. i have never had an issue with the cheaper ones. if you are gonna replace it. if it cranks good, existing starter is already paid for.
Last edited by derekderek; May 31, 2021 at 10:26 PM.
I’m just going to replace them all, my battery ground is new.
I’ll add an Engine/frame ground tomorrow. Isn’t there another big ground I need?
and I’ll replace my positive battery cable, and I’ll check my starter ground as well(I’d like to replace starter but waiting for check to clear)
The only large cables on your Corvette are
1. Positive battery
2. Negative battery
3. Engine block just above and front of the starter to frame extension to the engine mount
4. All other ground wires for the most part are part of the wire harnesses.
I had planned to get a gear reduction starter! I thought my starter was going bad, but after it immediately fired up twice - I think it might have just been my power cable failing to give it enough power.
so I’m going to get a new cable and see how it performs. But I appreciate the inexpensive link to one! The ones I’ve found are pricey
These are from the 1974 AIM or {Assembly Instruction Manual) Showing were the parts listed are assembled to. Number 3 in the first illustration is the ground cable engine to frame. Along with the bolts, lock washers and nut. Look at your passengers side engine mount the frame extension is were the cable is bolted to. the other end is attached to the bolt and lock washer that also attaches the front starter support bracket.
Then photos of the Battery cable clip at bell housing #5 and Solenoid Clip for start wire support.
2nd illustration is the proper mounting and install of the battery positive and negative cables.
Note the use of star washers on the ground connections to help with a good connection.
Ground cable just above and forward of starter.
The Ground cable at the engine motor mount frame bracket.
my current connectors will fit a 3/8th(I think) bolt, these are an inch long. Do you think these bolts will fit the associated holes? (I’ll get the correct nuts/star washers tomorrow if they’ll fit. If not then I’ll get the correct bolts/nuts/washers tomorrow)
and I have a hard time understanding the Aim, I have a couple here from the last owner. I much prefer to see how it should be and set it up from there. (Visual learner I think)
Edit, I just got under and looked in those sports that you posted PJO and i didn’t see a ground there(but was using a flashlight at night) and I don’t think a 3/8th both is going to fit into those holes?.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; Jun 1, 2021 at 10:33 PM.
is the front bracket attached to your starter? or gone? that block bolt may be smaller. 1/4 or 5/16th. all of this stuff is coarse thread. GM only used fine thread in stuff that spins, like harmonic balancers, flywheels, etc.
is the front bracket attached to your starter? or gone? that block bolt may be smaller. 1/4 or 5/16th. all of this stuff is coarse thread. GM only used fine thread in stuff that spins, like harmonic balancers, flywheels, etc.
So the part that I out lined in orange (I thought was a starter heat shield) isn’t there on mine, and the blue is where I think the grounding bolt hole is on mine (cause yeah)
unfortunately I’m not with my atm or for the next 12 hours.
I know your working on a 74.
My 77 Assembly Manual Also shows Ground Cable at starter brace.
Simple not correct, on my 77 block there is another boss drilled and tapped for the ground cable.
Not sure a 74 block has this provision.
when I get home I’ll look for two crescents like that, that circular cap is on the other side with my oil filter so I’ll check that side too.
but I appreciate all the help! mine doesn’t have a 74 engine, it’s just got a small block crate engine. I have the HEI distributor from a 75 so
yes, that is a brace to protect from breaking the nose f something goes wrong while cranking. and somebody decided it was not worth reinstalling. i betcha the ground cable is hanging in the breeze down there still bolted to the frame. people who don't put brackets back generally don't look around for more stuff to remove. they just get starter in and move on. so, you have a life. and have to do the employed thing...
yes, that is a brace to protect from breaking the nose f something goes wrong while cranking. and somebody decided it was not worth reinstalling. i betcha the ground cable is hanging in the breeze down there still bolted to the frame. people who don't put brackets back generally don't look around for more stuff to remove. they just get starter in and move on. so, you have a life. and have to do the employed thing...
so while I’m down there I should get the bracket installed too?.? Or should I wait to see if my starter is actually going bad or if it was just my power cable not giving it enough juice?
FWIW and this is a 78. Ground to the starter bracket and over to the frame:
You are correct BK
The smaller hole is in fact 1/4 x 20 for the wire shielding V rear bracket
I was wrong...
I will remove my post as to not confuse others...
You are correct BK
The smaller hole is in fact 1/4 x 20 for the wire shielding V rear bracket
I was wrong...
I will remove my post as to not confuse others...
so the grounding bolt is a 3/8x16, cause I have one of those laying around and it doesn’t fit.
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