What you guys think of the electric conversion kits for the pop up lights. 1975 here. My car literally came out of a barn after many years of sitting up. Was thinking of converting it instead of trying to tackle all the vacume lines, actuators, etc. Car has a mild cam anyway but planning on a stouter build in the future.
Thanks

 

Owners have had success with the electric kits. I came close to buying a kit, myself.
Since I am rebuilding the damaged clip on my car I decided to mock up the headlight vacuum system to try and understand how it works.
I must have been over-thinking (or under-thinking) the system.

 

WOW. I know its probably simple, but to much to go wrong I guess. The electric kits are pricey but if they work good Im all for it. Testimonials?

 

When I first bought my '73, the headlights were a bit wonky. Slow to pop up. Sometimes one would pop up way before the other. There were issues when turning them off as well. I went through the exercise of diagnosing and solving all the problems with the vacuum system and got the lights working as they should.

The headlights worked fine for a few years but eventually started having some issues again, primarily with how long they took to pop up.

Fast forward to last year when I installed a new EFI crate engine. The Edelbrock XT intake I used did not have enough sources for vacuum. Given that and while diagnosing a vacuum leak that was causing the engine to not run correctly, I decided to eliminate some of the uses of vacuum on the car. So, I installed an electric headlight conversion kit along with a relay harness to make the lights brighter and keep the amperage off of the light switch. Glad I did. Headlights pop up right away, go down right away and they are much brighter than before. I'm very happy I went this route. I am sending you a PM with a bit more information.

DC

 

IMO, IF you want the operating lights, I recommend changing the bulbs to something lower profile, like the bulbs out of a late F body....'89? Firebird.....about 5" width and 2.x tall glass bulbs....and altering the opening to maybe 3" high......

ME, I went with fixed install, and reduced the opening by some 50% on the body....and brought lights further forward on the available fixed lights pans......I try to post a pix, if not, go to my link, pix there.....

 

I built my own set up using the info I got on this site. It really isn’t that difficult. I could not justify what people are asking for these kits. I did buy a harness set up I found which was about $125. Probe motors were cheap ($35 each) before everyone found out about it. Nothing sweeter than hitting a button and they pop up immediately. Give it a shot. Great mod

 

Go for the electric conversion.

 

you need to fix vacuum leaks and blow the bug nests out of the lines. biggest problem is these control relays.

 

see that brown in the left one? that is a mud wasp nest.
the vacuum hoses have to be unobstructed, but so do those 2 air returns. the vacuum doesn't raise the headlights. the air pushing on the other side of the diaphragm does the moving. that air has to pass through that wasp nest to raise the lights. these are 2 i bought used. the 2 in my car both had these nests. cut a quarter inch off every hose end. makes them fit tighter. i used a long tranny dipstick to get the bug nest out of the long big line from intake manifold to air tank. this is easy and essentially free work. no redesigning. no wiring. you don't use this much at night anyway.

 

Your '75 is easy to diagnose and fix.
Here's how:

http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm

 

The original design for the vacuum actuated headlights was great for the 70's and can be made to work just like new.
I went with the electric conversion kit offered by Forum member Richard454.
His kit is reasonably priced and he uses all top quality hardware.
I could not be happier with what I received.
If you are planning to build an engine with a high lift cam then all the more reason to convert over to electric headlight actuators.

 

Got in touch with Richard and will soon have one on the way!

 

There ya' go.....Hammer>>>>>>Anvil>>>>>>Solution(s)! Doesn't get any better

 

I did something similar to kanvasman.
I used Miata actuators and swapped in a headlight switch for a 1984 Corvette.
This eliminates the vacuum portion of the original switch and adds a terminal to command the later model motorized actuators.
Plus, the original harness connector plugs right into the later switch.

 

i think miata and probe are the same motors. 4 cyl probes had mazda engines.

 

True, but an eBay search for Miata headlight motors yielded more results from private sellers.

 

I have the McSpeed kit (discontinued) on mine with Firebird motors and controller and it works great

 

I bought my conversion kit from a member @Richard454
I couldn’t acquire the parts, build the brackets and build out the wire harness for cheaper.
When I bought mine, he had Probe or Miata motors to choose from. I picked Miata to match the one I used for my wiper cover (1971)

Edit - I just read your post above about contacting Richard LOL

cheers,
Richard

 

IMO, going to electric actuators is a waste of time, money and effort...compared to replacing some rubber vacuum line and a few [relatively] low dollar items.
You can use vacuum from your car's engine to check out the relays and actuators for the headlamps. The only other items in the system that need to be in good condition are the check valve, the vacuum line filter and the vacuum reservoir tank. With a little advance 'guidance', any competent person could check things out and know what was needed to get the stock vacuum system working well in one day.
Now, that does not include any mechanical issues with the headlamp bucket mechanisms. But, those need to work properly whether you stay with vacuum or convert to electric.

As simple [and reliable] as the stock vacuum lamp system is, it just seems like a boondoggle to go to the lengths required to convert to electric. C2's WERE electric. Chevy thought that the vacuum lamp system was BETTER when it developed the C3..... just sayin'

P.S. You did ask for input. I just thought you ought to hear both side of the issue.

 

I say GM went cheaper (as Rube Goldberg never worked for GM ) - and then BACK to electric in the C4/C5.