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I'd ask: What does anti-seize have to do with the pain in the butt of lining up bolts through a header flange and gasket, Threading any bolt into soft aluminum or cast iron is taking a chance of stripping the head threads out. anti-seize is for ease of removal. maybe it even helps them back out faster during heat cycles
I'd ask: What does anti-seize have to do with the pain in the butt of lining up bolts through a header flange and gasket, Threading any bolt into soft aluminum or cast iron is taking a chance of stripping the head threads out. anti-seize is for ease of removal. maybe it even helps them back out faster during heat cycles
Nothing. I have no problem aligning my header gasket. I use Earls and all you have to do is install the two end bolts through the header then hang the gasket on them because where the end bolt holes are they are slotted not holes. I don't think there is a header gasket that is not made this way. Put two bolt in loosely, place gasket on bolts then install the other bolts. The end bolts hold the header in place while installing gasket. Tighten everything down and then I safety wire mine. Takes all of about 30 minutes to do both sides. Save me $ on special bolts and studs plus I don't have to fiddle around with those little clips etc.
Anyone notice the guy in the video with the Summit split locks never said a word about how well they worked out on the front and rear primary pipes. The tight side on those primary pipes have no room for an allen wrench as far as I can see. Impossible to lock those.
George's studs look like a great idea if you can get the pipes on that way. A glob of high temp silicone on the nut and protruding end of the stud is a great solution to stop fasteners from loostening. Easy, cheap, and effective.
FWIW- 2 Bread ties will hold gaskets in place on the flange until you have the first 2 bolts started. I always use the shortest header bolt on the tightest space first. Get those ones started first, then start the easy ones in after that.
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I have a big block which requires 16 studs. Those come in a pack of 12 ....no help for me.
And for anyone whining about not being able to hang the headers on a small block, Do the last primary tube first, just the last bolt, the headers are pretty balanced off that pipe, then do the first pipe, only the outside bolt. Leaving them loose, most header gaskets are designed with hooks for the 2 outside gasket holes, then drop them in and the catch the bolts. THen just use pick in one of the center tube bolt holes to line up those hole and put in a bolt. I dont understand ho there can be an issue with installing bolts.
IF you leave all the bolts loose and get them started then there isnt any problem with the those inside bent pipes installing the bolts. I would love to use studs but Ive had issues getting the flanges over them with all the other accessories I have in my engine compartment and small headed bolts like tthe Stage 8s arent an issue.
I have a big block which requires 16 studs. Those come in a pack of 12 ....no help for me.
And for anyone whining about not being able to hang the headers on a small block, Do the last primary tube first, just the last bolt, the headers are pretty balanced off that pipe, then do the first pipe, only the outside bolt. Leaving them loose, most header gaskets are designed with hooks for the 2 outside gasket holes, then drop them in and the catch the bolts. THen just use pick in one of the center tube bolt holes to line up those hole and put in a bolt. I dont understand ho there can be an issue with installing bolts.
IF you leave all the bolts loose and get them started then there isnt any problem with the those inside bent pipes installing the bolts. I would love to use studs but Ive had issues getting the flanges over them with all the other accessories I have in my engine compartment and small headed bolts like tthe Stage 8s arent an issue.
A stud on the front hole and a stud on the rear hole will hold gasket in place while you position the header in place. Not all the threaded holes have to have studs, just two to hang the gasket. As for the fasteners loosening, S.S. tie wire seems to work the best for me. But I have used split ring lock washers in the past, they still loosen up after so many heat cycles but not as quick as with no washer at all. I like the French lock washers, though haven't tried them yet.
I don't know why you guys are struggling with bolts and gasket alinement. From what I've seen over the years that most gasket designs are like this with slots instead of holes on the ends of the gasket.
Start the end bolts through the header loosely. Place gasket between head and header and the slots will hole the gasket in place. Install all the bolts and tighten. Bang, your done. Even if the gasket doesn't have the slots on the end you can make them. Easy as pie and I bet I can get my headers off and back on, both sides in less than 30 minutes. It helps I run block huggers.
Last edited by theandies; Jul 20, 2021 at 05:24 PM.
I cant tell, do the arp studs have a locking washer or so they just rely on pressure and bolt stretch to lock them?
They don't use washers or you can use washers. I first used then as is and then I got the bright idea to put a dob of Permitex red high temp just so I wouldn't ever loose the nut.
I just use long ARP bolts with a 3/8 hex, and Remflex gaskets. I check them for tightness occasionally, but it works really well, and the 3/8 hex is great in tight spots.
I just use long ARP bolts with a 3/8 hex, and Remflex gaskets. I check them for tightness occasionally, but it works really well, and the 3/8 hex is great in tight spots.
That's fine for the smaller 1 5/8th primary header pipes. But when you go to 1 3/4 NO 3/8 hex will clear the pipes and some even using bolts would be a PITA to install. I tried using stage 8 at first. I had to grind every hex locking washer for pipe clearance and you kinda had to install all the bolts through the header flange and alternately tighten then to slowly draw the pipes to the head. Just say NO to any phoney bolts!
Sorry, Rescue Rogers I did use washers in this picture. If you look closely I actually had to grind down the shouldered 5/16th nuts for pipe clearance
What could be easier than this? I'm really not sure why people defend BOLTS and the possibility of stripping out your threads in the heads. I also use a stud for the dizzy hold down and the carburetor is on 4 studs. On my old valve covers with short length, they had studs. Just so easy to assemble and nevery worry about hurting the intake manifold.
If your studs are long enough, just put another "jamb nut" on top of the other nut. Torque it down and they will never come loose.
I never had one come loose. But the high temp red doesn't get damaged by heat and I didn't want to ever loose a nut because you have to buy sets. The red Permatex really does handle heat. When my headers would be glowing orange for long periods of time it actually melted my Energy Suspension red poly motor mounts.
I never had one come loose. But the high temp red doesn't get damaged by heat and I didn't want to ever loose a nut because you have to buy sets. The red Permatex really does handle heat. When my headers would be glowing orange for long periods of time it actually melted my Energy Suspension red poly motor mounts.
Thanks gkull, I had no idea that 'high heat' meant it could handle that kind of "high heat"! Great information.
That's fine for the smaller 1 5/8th primary header pipes. But when you go to 1 3/4 NO 3/8 hex will clear the pipes and some even using bolts would be a PITA to install. I tried using stage 8 at first. I had to grind every hex locking washer for pipe clearance and you kinda had to install all the bolts through the header flange and alternately tighten then to slowly draw the pipes to the head. Just say NO to any phoney bolts!
Sorry, Rescue Rogers I did use washers in this picture. If you look closely I actually had to grind down the shouldered 5/16th nuts for pipe clearance
I have 1 7/8 headers gkull... But actually they are 5/16 hex heads, I remembered incorrectly.
Last edited by Metalhead140; Jul 27, 2021 at 01:00 AM.
What could be easier than this? I'm really not sure why people defend BOLTS and the possibility of stripping out your threads in the heads. I also use a stud for the dizzy hold down and the carburetor is on 4 studs. On my old valve covers with short length, they had studs. Just so easy to assemble and nevery worry about hurting the intake manifold.
Perhaps people are balking at the price? Maybe they've never had to repair the thread on a head before (it is NOT fun). I took your stud advice (mostly), and there was really no other way to get my headers mounted. I'll listen to the full advice next time, and use the 3/8" studs with the 5/16" nuts, but the 3/8" 6-point nuts worked and I'm happy.
Thanks for continuing to preach this! It is 100% correct advice.
Last edited by Bikespace; Jul 27, 2021 at 01:17 AM.
