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True enough. I guess the thing is that if I'm screwing all the studs in after then I don't see much difference from bolts - if I still need to remove and refit most or all of them each time I take the headers off then it seems like more hassle than just using bolts to me.
Last edited by Metalhead140; Jul 27, 2021 at 09:17 PM.
True enough. I guess the thing is that if I'm screwing all the studs in after then I don't see much difference from bolts - if I still need to remove and refit most or all of them each time I take the headers off then it seems like more hassle than just using bolts to me.
The big difference (and this matters a lot more on aluminum heads), is the way the forces are applied.
Even if you screw the studs in and out each time, there is little stress on them, as long as you are using the nuts correctly. The tensioning stress is felt by both threads, of course, but only the threads under the nuts are moving relative to the nut. The threads in the heads are still, which should lead to less likelihood of galling.
True enough. I guess the thing is that if I'm screwing all the studs in after then I don't see much difference from bolts - if I still need to remove and refit most or all of them each time I take the headers off then it seems like more hassle than just using bolts to me.
I think you are missing the concept of studs whether its for a carb, valve covers, oil pan or cylinder heads. Skipping all the tension & torque data for now, consider studs as a "Locator Pin" or Alignment Pin".
On oil pans, a stud kit is easiest way for that awkward task of bolt, pan, gasket & block alignment.
Disadvantages of stud kits is sometimes associated with clearance issues.
With cyl head studs, the head must be remove straight up & out.
With header studs, the headers must be pulled back, down & away. In some cases the frame or steering box will not allow this removal.
I think you are missing the concept of studs whether its for a carb, valve covers, oil pan or cylinder heads. Skipping all the tension & torque data for now, consider studs as a "Locator Pin" or Alignment Pin".
On oil pans, a stud kit is easiest way for that awkward task of bolt, pan, gasket & block alignment.
Disadvantages of stud kits is sometimes associated with clearance issues.
With cyl head studs, the head must be remove straight up & out.
With header studs, the headers must be pulled back, down & away. In some cases the frame or steering box will not allow this removal.
The header exhaust studs I buy the short 3/4 inch. they don't stick out so far.
My first real hot rod motor stock block "010" stock 4 bolt block. I had it bored, align bored, ..... installed the head studs and I couldn't get the heads on because of the block thread angles. You have to have the block blue printed and have all the head bolt thread holes perfectly zero degrees. I've just built every one of my motors completely studded since i was a young lad.
Somebody mentioned ARP stud costs. I didn't buy a vette to save money! The other thing is our government has printed so much money that our dollars are becoming worthless. Then add in a year of work shut down and ARP studs have about doubled in cost and it might take 3 months to get them. I'm so glad that i just bought many sets of everything 10 - 20 years ago. Just buy two sets in case you dork something up or loose something because ARP doesn't sell singles
I think you are missing the concept of studs whether its for a carb, valve covers, oil pan or cylinder heads. Skipping all the tension & torque data for now, consider studs as a "Locator Pin" or Alignment Pin".
On oil pans, a stud kit is easiest way for that awkward task of bolt, pan, gasket & block alignment.
Disadvantages of stud kits is sometimes associated with clearance issues.
With cyl head studs, the head must be remove straight up & out.
With header studs, the headers must be pulled back, down & away. In some cases the frame or steering box will not allow this removal.
Not missing it at all, and not sure why everyone is jumping on it. I run head studs, I run carb studs, I run sump and main studs. On some of my other cars I run exhaust and intake studs too. Big supporter of using studs. But on my Corvette, I was just saying that I would need to remove the studs to get the header in, which removes many (not all) of the advantages - and to my mind makes it a longer, less easy job (screw in the stud, and then screw on the nut vs just screw in a bolt). Anyway, doesn't matter, I really don't care either way, wasn't arguing with anyone, that's just why I personally use bolts here.
I understand now. Post 42 confused me.
If you have to remove header studs to remove the headers, I certainly would not bother with stud kits either.
The twelve point ARP stainless steel header bolts are wonderful.
As stated by another earlier, maybe just two studs per header, far-outside holes, to help alignment? IDK
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jul 29, 2021 at 09:20 AM.
Yes Summit has the bolts in Moly Black or Stainless, 12 point, w/ washer, ARPs.
Do not use the "fastener" category to look them up. Use the search box: SBC Header Bolt Kit. Then look for ARP.
That way you will get the perfect 12 in the package. (instead of 5 per pack)
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jul 29, 2021 at 07:11 PM.
Yes Summit has the bolts in Moly Black or Stainless, 12 point, w/ washer, ARPs.
Do not use the "fastener" category to look them up. Use the search box: SBC Header Bolt Kit. Then look for ARP.
That way you will get the perfect 12 in the package. (instead of 5 per pack)
Did a search and the only ones are the speedmasters that have 3/8" step down to 5/16"
Not so sure you need a step-down to clear the headers. I have 1 5/8 tubes with 3/8 bolt heads. Box-end wrench clears easily. 3/8 socket? Usually.
In my opinion, the 5/16th is not much of a nut to be applying 25 lbs of torque to. But its your call.
Summit:
ARP 400-1201 Stainless
or
ARP 100-1203 Black moly
or
ARP 100-1201 Black moly
All 3/8s, all full thread, SBC, all correct length. You will not snap these off!
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jul 30, 2021 at 08:43 AM.
Not so sure you need a step-down to clear the headers. I have 1 5/8 tubes with 3/8 bolt heads. Box-end wrench clears easily. 3/8 socket? Usually.
In my opinion, the 5/16th is not much of a nut to be applying 25 lbs of torque to. But its your call.
30 years of using 5/6th because of my 1 3/4 hooker S/C headers and never snapped one.
headerstud kits are premium grade, 180,000 psi tensile strength (stronger than grade 8) fasteners
You need to call ARP for the universal kit part number using 5/16 socket size hex head nuts. I didn't see them on the arp site I don't have my original boxes because I throw them in the sorted nut and bolt drawers
You need to call ARP for the universal kit part number using 5/16 socket size hex head nuts. I didn't see them on the arp site I don't have my original boxes because I throw them in the sorted nut and bolt drawers
Were your stud step down 3/8" to 5/16" with 5/16" nuts? I did find some of those. Some outfits are trying to get $10 a piece. I found some at $3 ea.
Were your stud step down 3/8" to 5/16" with 5/16" nuts? I did find some of those. Some outfits are trying to get $10 a piece. I found some at $3 ea.
Yes stepped to 5/16th hex nut. They list the 12 point nuts for the 16 piece set. But 12 point is worthless on tight header tubes because you can't get any tool over the nut. So 6 point nuts only