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You seriously don't even have to take the hood off to pull the motor out?
Nope. I have done it many times with the hood on. I even will leave the radiator in. Now I'm not pulling the motor and trans out as 1 but I can install a motor with the bellhousing on with all this still on the car.
Out with the old in with the new New parts awaiting install
I got these parts from Bairs. They did a great job and have the rear end now. It is being rebuilt and converted to 3.70 gears to go along with the 5 speed TKX that is going in also.
I live about 10 minutes from Bairs. This past summer they completely rebuilt the rear end of my 77. New trailing arms, rotors, bushings, half-shafts, u-joints, brakes,rebuilt diff and put in 3.55 gears in place of the 3.08s. They also replaced the rear body mounts and bushings. Their main mechanic (and I think now part owner) Mike has been there since they opened in 1970!
Old automatic pedal 2 new pedals Installed the 3:70 rear and camber rods.
Had a little time today to redo the pedal box for pedals. I am waiting on the clutch safety switch before I put these back in. I have a new booster going in. While its out why not replace a 44 year old booster. Easier now that its out. Finally got the correct rear back and got it shoved back in place and bolted up with new cushions. Just threw the camber rods and bracket back on I’ll set them up tomorrow. Looking more like a corvette rear now that pieces are falling back in place.
Nope. I have done it many times with the hood on. I even will leave the radiator in. Now I'm not pulling the motor and trans out as 1 but I can install a motor with the bellhousing on with all this still on the car.
Clutch reservoir Inside with clutch MC mounted Outside with clutch MC mounted.
Nothing fancy here just fit and mounted it up. I had to trim a small corner off the bracket for the cruise control as it was to tight for my liking. Not much room to get your drill inside the cabin to drill those holes. Found a good spot for the reservoir with easy access to it. Waiting on some small parts now then back at it.
hey Gordon, on the front control arms, do you plan to mod the upper shafts so get more caster than stock?
Probably not. This will be a street driven Corvette. I had tubular arms on mine and for autocross it did perform a little better but on the street it was barely noticeable. I'll probably dial in as much caster as I can get with the stock arms can give.
Dewitts radiator and Spal fans Fusible link. I think I’ll replace this. we now have 3 pedals
Just a little more work today. I got the clutch switch and installed and wired it up. The PO had hacked the neutral safety switch and run and spliced and butt connected some wire. I ran a new line from the switch down to the starter. As you can see the fusisible link to the starter was on its last thread or two of wiring. This will be replaced. The rear suspension is all done except the rear spring and the front suspension will wait until I get the motor in. Need the weight to compress the spring. Probably drop it in this weekend. Waiting for a spacer from SST for the hydraulic TO bearing setup. They shipped the wrong one the first time.
Been following this project...
I believe your working on a mid year, but still considered a early build 1977.
On the early 77 there are still 2 fusible links.
A third if you have the convenience group package that includes a hood light.
Unlike the late build 77 the fusible links are in different locations.
One at the starter labeled A is 14 gauge.
The other is located just after the bulkhead connector in engine bay and is labeled B.
Fusible link B is a 16 gauge.
Might check that one as well...
The 1977 Corvette electrical troubleshooting manual is a good source but not much detail on the TAP connector so I drew this...
I can see the TAP connector just below the new clutch MC.
Looking at the style of TAP connector you have I think the car has or had A/C with the convenience group package.
Without A/C left side...With A/C right side...
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jan 14, 2022 at 09:11 PM.
Yes the car does have non working AC at the moment but when it left the factory it was working. It does have the convenience group also. I will look at the other fusible links tomorrow. I took a day off as the wife and I visited some friends for the day. Should be back at it tomorrow. Might drop the motor back in just to get that lump off the stand and back in the car.
Yes the car does have non working AC at the moment but when it left the factory it was working. It does have the convenience group also. I will look at the other fusible links tomorrow. I took a day off as the wife and I visited some friends for the day. Should be back at it tomorrow. Might drop the motor back in just to get that lump off the stand and back in the car.
If in fact fusible link B needs replacing, now would be the time with engine out. It will get real tight working in that area especially with the cruise transducer, clutch MC and brake booster installed.
I've been passing by this thread, when I originally saw the title I thought it was a frame off.
While I respect the labor and time commitment that a frame off requires, I don't have the attention span to complete one.
This is my kind of project, solid bones that need the mechanicals updated.
I hope to find a C3 in similar condition, completing this work will make it mine.
I've been passing by this thread, when I originally saw the title I thought it was a frame off.
While I respect the labor and time commitment that a frame off requires, I don't have the attention span to complete one.
This is my kind of project, solid bones that need the mechanicals updated.
I hope to find a C3 in similar condition, completing this work will make it mine.
This car will be a driver not a show car. Although it does look pretty nice. I have done frame offs before and they do not perform any better than this one will. They may look prettier but when sitting behind the wheel they will be the same. Frame offs take a lot more time cleaning and painting and getting all the parts just right. I hope to have this done in around 3 months.
New engine heading to its new home. Setting in place. No transmission in yet so the 2x4 is holding up the rear of the engine. Left side front suspension in Right side in also.
Dropped the motor in today along with the front suspension. Wrestling with front springs is always fun. I also got in the new bell housing and have the hydraulic TO bearing in. I now have to cut the hole for the shifter then slide in the trans. Making some good progress here.
Today I got the transmission in and all bolted up. I finished off the front suspension except for the shocks. Still need to align and tighten the bushings but I need it to be on the tires and weight on it for that. I cut the hole for the shifter first thing this morning then went to work. Moving along quite wel not.
I take it that you're installing a header exhaust. In order to get them on my SB after the engine was in, I had to remove the spark plugs and all the Head sensors. Maybe you won't have to, but if so, just be aware of them and take care not to "bump" them. Sparkplugs 5, 6, 7, & 8 were easier to install from the bottom. But you have the ideal setup.
I hung the drivers side header with just 2 bolts yesterday. I do always take out the spark plugs. No sensors are in the heads yet so it slide into place very easily. The passenger side has the dipstick but Blue Print has a nice removeable dipstick tube to make the header install easy.
