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The ram and control valve were recently replaced at a very good custom shop so doubtful. Also the problem was unchanged before and after replacement.
I apologize if this has already been discussed, but the rear thrust angle is important to consider, that is whether or not both rear toe angles are the same. The rear toe angle is the total of both sides, but if one side is toed out and the other side toed in an equal amount, the total toe can be within specs but the thrust angle can cause a pull.
It’s akin to a solid rear axle car dog-tracking.
Why does my '74 pull rather strongly to the right all the time? This has been a deal I have lived with years but am finally at least putting it on the forum for possible answers. At the alignment shop it checks out fine at some really good shops. I used the compass on my phone laying it against the flat part of the wheel on either side and the compass reads the same degrees. Just visually, it looks great except the right front wheel is about 3/4 of inch farther out than the left. Like there was a spacer behind it but there is not.
I've driven on these tires thousands of miles and there is no problem with wear pattern at all. They are the usual BF Goodrich radial T/As 225 60R 15 on 1976 stock 8" mags.
I'm tempted to skew with the front wheel alignment a little to manually adjust for less pull but I don't know. I guess the problem started when I went with 60 wides all around where as previously I have 70 wide in front. A slight toe in front would wear sure but may cure the pull to one side?
This should be easy to Identify.
As others have suggested The steering Ram is not centered / Balanced. You can verify this via lifting the front wheels off the ground.
Center the wheel and start the car. If the wheels move start with a re-balance of the steering Ram.
Also move the steering wheel left / right and make sure similar efford turning both directions.
Next Check the alignment for thurst angles. In the picture below this is checking the front wheels.
Also check how square your axle's are to the frame.
place bars like this and measure the distance between the bars. Should be ! 98" which is the wheel base of the car. But more important is left & right side is the same.
Next is the caster setting. This is more difficult to check. But follow my alignment measurement post and you will find the method in the post.
I apologize if this has already been discussed, but the rear thrust angle is important to consider, that is whether or not both rear toe angles are the same. The rear toe angle is the total of both sides, but if one side is toed out and the other side toed in an equal amount, the total toe can be within specs but the thrust angle can cause a pull.
It’s akin to a solid rear axle car dog-tracking.
no that has not been discussed yet I believe. That sounds like it may be on the warmer path though. I’ll check on it thx.
I talked with Dub today and he pretty much felt it was a control valve adjustment problem and told me how to dismantle it, pull out the rod and then check for movement of it after starting the engine. That movement will tell you if it needs adjusting. I did raise the front wheels and then start the engine with no movement of the steering wheel but he seemed to say that is not the best check on it. He recommended against aftermarket control valves because their span of adjustment is smaller and much more difficult to accomplish correctly.
So I'm going to take it back to the shop that installed it if they are still in business and have them take a check on it like he was explaining to me. I'm not really sure that shop is still open to public though.
Interested to see the fix. My front passenger wheel sticks out further than my driver but the car was in an accident and the body is all wonky. I’m planning to do my alignment myself on my 78 but I have the fastrax caster/camber and toe tools plus I picked up turn tables which I was able to align my firebird really good.
[QUOTE=78vette5.3;1605212284]Interested to see the fix. My front passenger wheel sticks out further than my driver but the car was in an accident and the body is all wonky. I’m planning to do my alignment myself on my 78 but I have the fastrax caster/camber and toe tools plus I picked up turn tables which I was able to align my firebird really good.[/QUOTE
My 74 also had an impact that apparently did damage to the right front before I owned the car. Now the body is pushed a half inch or more to one side in front. No problems exist now and has all been repaired frame wise but the body of going to remain off kilter a smidgen.
I’m going to need to drive this somewhere to get checked out and fixed but with extreme heat lately I going to need a cool break in the weather.
After looking at the shims on the upper control arms pivot shaft things look real screwy. One front wheel looks like all the shims fell out and there is a gap of over a half inch angling to 1/4 inch on the other side. The other wheel has the shaft at angle also but it is tight with shims. Only one side of the shaft has shims though of about .200 with no shims on the other side. Supposedly you are supposed to have equal shims to keep the shaft parallel with the control arm. I'm far from it. But the wheels appear very close to being parallel although the cambers are different. Can't really tell how much but it is visually noticeable. You would think by looking at the pivot shafts that the wheels would be extremely far off.
Other than all of the other advice, Check your rim backspace, maybe someone put an odd one on the car!
I looked that up and yes I could have a problem with that. One wheel is damaged on the back surface. I asked about that at the tire shop and they all said it should be fine. I guess I could the spare tire on and see if there is a difference.
I did put the shims back filling the gaps on the control shaft keeping the same angle. Took it for a drive and there was no change to the pull to the right although the steering became stiffer. Hmm. We'll try the spare tire next.