Since the Govt is shut this week too, I decided to pull the transmission and change the seal.
i got it in the air and started breaking loose bolts, as soon as I broke loose the transmission to the bell housing.
I saw drips, that can't be good.
Im on my way to harbor freight to get a transjack.will update later.
v/r,
Karp


Drips after breaking the bolts loose.

 

grease up the trans jack well if you get the worm gear one

 

Good looking out Rescue Rogers, thanks. I did get the scissor one with the worm gear.
I only have a two garage so space is limited.
thankfully my wife is understunderstanding and put her car outside while I can do this rear seal.

Had to take some breaks to pick up my daughter from school and take her to her other lessons.
Yet, transmission is out, bell housing off (those top bolts are no joke), & the pressure plate is off.
I will continue tomorrow getting to that seal, then I can go buy one.
I am not sure if it's a one piece or two. (I'm hoping one)
Have a good night.
v/r,
Karp




yeah I should have jacked the car up further, to slide the trans out of the way more.
I didn't account for that tall of a jack height.

 

Plot thickens, this crank is different from what I've seen before.
normally I would expect to see the seal around the bolts holes.
i dont think this is a cap that pops off.
Im guessing it's going g to be a 2 piece and have to drop the oil pan?
Thanks in advance for any help.
v/r,
Karp

 

I just noticed the two rear 3/8;oil pan bolts are loose.
maybe the pan was loose and not torque.
I already drained the oil, maybe ill just change the pan gasket and go from there

Don't want to pop the rear cap off if I don't need to.

 

You’ve heard of Murphy’s Law, right???
Do you really want to do all this work again if the seal is leaking?
Add that on to the fact that you’re going to have to explain to your wife why she’s going to need to park her car outside a little longer.

 

This looks like your crank. You can call Eagle and ask them about it. Look at the pattern of the flywheel end. Most cranks are unique to that pattern

https://eaglerod.com/item/5523365-43...ategory=293631

 

@oldcarbum you are right when I was heading to the parts store, your message had me thinking do I want to do all this again for a $30 seal.
good thing too the old seal was dry , it was difficult to get out.

Roger yes you are correct it is an eagle crank, but my first Vette had the one piece seal so brain farted when I saw the back of this crank.

I did buy the Felcro 2912 brown high performance model, but think I got the wrong pan gasket.
I got the Felpro OS34509T (Thin gasket) yet upon measuring it looks like I need the OS34510T (Thick gasket)
I'll change that tomorrow.

With and luck we will be back on track by Friday.
I'll finish putting the seal in tonight and remounting the flywheel..
v/r,
Karp


Front crank and piston caps

Old rear seal

Old seal out, l(ooks dry)

Gasket material on crank

Front oil pan measurement

Seal/gasket differences

 

Good job getting in there and getting it done! You learned me something as I did not know there were 2 different seal thicknesses. Good to know!

 

Rear seal back in, oil pan mounted, flywheel put back on.
​​​​the I'm giving the seal and permatex 51813 gasket maker time to cure before I fill the crankcase.

The TR3550-10 transmission is definitely modified as it has a.26 spline & 1.1/8 input shaft. I went to every auto part store in the area and no luck to find an alignmenttool.. Only one I can find in stock is a 10 spline 1.1/4.
I did look at the options to order. The McLoed one is plastic 8s $40 and can't be here till 3-5 Nov, found and after market metal one for the dual clutch for $29 & will be here between 5-7 Nov.

Then the bad idea fairy hit me why don't I try and use the tranny to align them. It seems to have worked. I aligned the clutches and it looks like it may work. I have the bell housing mounted to the block using 4 bolts ..
I had some 4" bolts holding my grinder down that fit two of the slots on the flywheel, it was very handy in getting the flywheel unmounted as I used them to press it off the crank and extremely handy when recounting the flywheel as handles. If you have the flywheel with bolt holes I strongly recommend using two long cheap bolts as handles to help mount the flywheel.

Then my wife tells me it's time to stop for the night. So I will test it tomorrow with fingers crossed and the backup plan to of the correct alignment tool coming soon.

Have a good night I'll continue tomorrow.
v/r,
Karp

 

Aloha All,
Everything is back together and it starts. I think I need to check the timing and while I have it in the air, I am going to adjust the front-end alignment with a kit I bought. That should get it 90% steerable.

The only thing I noticed is after mounting the transmission back in that with the solid motor mounts, I had to pry the transmission back in-line to the crossmember bolts. it was more toward the passenger side. I have read many threads where solid motor mounts are like that. I don't have access to a welder to build new plates as some others so pry in line it is.

Is there anything else I should check while it’s in the air?
I’m hesitant to put it in gear as I don’t know it would do any damage being in the air on the frame.

Happy Veteran’s Day to all!

V/r,

Karp
Can't upload video, so here is a link to it starting.

You Tube

 

Do not start it and put it in gear while it’s in the air unless you support the trailing arms at the normal ride height position.
When the car is in the air the trailing arms are hanging which puts the u joints on the half shafts in a bind.
You will destroy them if you put it in gear.

 

The engine and drive train in our C3’s was designed to not be perfectly centered in the car and actually is about 3/4” over on the passenger side of centerline.
So it could be what you noticed was actually a normal condition.

PS, congratulations on the first start.
It does sound awesome!

 

I see you have a block plate, so likely a blow bell. And you mentioned solid motor mounts.
But I still would strongly recommend a rubber trans mount.

I have seen bellhousings/ trans cases etc. crack/ split on race cars when three solid mounts are used.
These old C3 frames are flexi-flyers, a little bit of give at the trans mount may prevent major issues down the road.

But yeah solid motor mounts are strongly recommended, with a strong engine. The rubber ones these days just split on the left from the engine TQ.

 

Street cars with solid motor mounts do need a rubber or poly transmission mount.