When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It’s for a buddies 79. Without the long history….split in oil pan with coolant and oil coming out. Unknown engine from previous owner. In the process of getting ready to pull engine. Plan is to remove the 350 and drop in a 5.3 pullout after cam and spring change. Swap the intake so he can run a carb and keep things simple as he can. Also going to remove the 350 and run a 700R4 so he can have a highway cruising gear. Getting one for 700 completely rebuilt. We know the owner of the trans and it’s history. Driveshaft modifying will be handled by the trans guy. No crazy hp plans, just reliable with a bit more oomph.
any advice or parts to make this go smoother would be appreciated.
Thank in advance!
why not use the 4L65E that was mated to the 5.3 and keep the injection too? I haven't done a LS swap yet but those carburetor manifolds look real tall and might give hood clearance problems , the LS swapped I've seen had the injection and didn't require any hood mods , something to investigate anyway
Don't forget better push rods for your cam swap on the 5.3.
I've done a number LS swaps into various hot rods. I have always used the GM ECM for engine and trans control along with either LS6 or LS3 intakes.
I looked into the LS carb setup from MSD because I wanted to build a stock Gen 1 look a like engine. Decided against it for various reasons.
As said above I would be nervous about hood/air cleaner clearance.
I am a LS guy but maybe just a mildly built SB 350/383 instead of an LS swap would be cheaper and easier? Still do the 700R.
why not use the 4L65E that was mated to the 5.3 and keep the injection too? I haven't done a LS swap yet but those carburetor manifolds look real tall and might give hood clearance problems , the LS swapped I've seen had the injection and didn't require any hood mods , something to investigate anyway
"might"? Ha. You will have a hood clearance problem! Plan on it or go FI. This is single plane but I don't think dual plane is much better. BTW there is an LS carbureted forum you should look for. You can find pictures of my car here with the hood on if you search a bit.
I’ve worked on and done about 1/2 a dozen LS swapped trucks and cars and I will say this. There are alot of ways to **** up a swap. The LS platform has a very different geometry and the motor has to sit alot lower in the car to keep the driveline angles right. Exhaust many times is an interesting problem. I would say it was the most interesting on a right hand drive Austin Sheerline I helped a buddy with.
If you want to swap the thing then go for it but I caution you these things. Take the amount you think your gonna spend swapping it and double it. Thats closer to what you are gonna spend. You will run into problems where you have to rework ABC XYZ. Also the time you think its gonna take. You’ll make good time on the first 90% of getting it together. That will consist of 50% of the time getting it going. The last 10% figuring out shifter linkages, throttle cables, fuel lines, fuel pump, power steering lines, cooling hoses, and so on. That will take the other 50% of the time. Unless you have swapped motors in this fashion before thats the truth of it.
Its also not gonna make the car more valuable. Personally I stay clear of LS swaps if I’m looking at buying because there are so many ways you can cobble one up. Personally stick a nice 350 back in it and run it.
If your dead set on fuel injection then absolutely look at a LS motor but if your gonna stick carbed then stay with the OE style driveline IMO.
When I did my 71 C3 LS1/4L60E swap I didn't find it too difficult. Completely stock LS1 GM crate engine with a locally sourced "built" 4L60E. C3"s had 400 turbos so plenty of trans tunnel room. I used 2002 Camaro accessories. No fitment issues. 2002 Camaro oil pan. You will have to plug the stock heater inlet/outlet and drill new holes because the stock nipples hit the control arm. I went with a Borgeson steering box so no slave cylinder steering issues.
I used mid-length headers. Stock C3 gas tank with a Bosch 044 external pump. C5 fuel filter regulator. -6 SS fuel line front to back.
One reason not to use the 700R with a LS swap is that the LS ECM likes (per my tuner) a VSS signal to fine tune tuning. Shifter wise I went a 4L60E conversion from Shift Works. Had the drive shaft shortened. Modded the trans cross member for the 4L60E. Modded the e-brake wheel for clearance near the trans output u-joint.
I replaced all the gauges with Auto Meter gauges.
Aftermarket universal LS radiator. 16" Spall fan. Big B&M stacked plate trans cooler. -6 SS trans lines.
Howell fuel injection harness. Mail order tune Frost Tunes. Ran great.
As said above I'm sure I'm forgetting a ton of small things.
It’s for a buddies 79. Without the long history….split in oil pan with coolant and oil coming out. Unknown engine from previous owner. In the process of getting ready to pull engine. Plan is to remove the 350 and drop in a 5.3 pullout after cam and spring change. Swap the intake so he can run a carb and keep things simple as he can. Also going to remove the 350 and run a 700R4 so he can have a highway cruising gear. Getting one for 700 completely rebuilt. We know the owner of the trans and it’s history. Driveshaft modifying will be handled by the trans guy. No crazy hp plans, just reliable with a bit more oomph.
any advice or parts to make this go smoother would be appreciated.
Thank in advance!
Items needing attention
#1 FEA (front end accesories fitmet / placement) based on the damper spacing on the engine. LS engines typical has 3 spacings. This needs to be looked at.
#2 Fuel supply. Intake EFI Setup. Using a 82 sending unit in tank is a option, but fuel level guage readings will not work well. 82 sending unit path is much different than a 78-79 sending unit path.
#3 gas pedal changes required if the ECU requires drive by wire signal.
and more items.... But this are a few important ones.
I did a 5.3 for pretty cheap in my 78. It’s a unknown mileage 5.3, eBay fbody pan, summit stage 1 high lift cam, dorman LS6 intake and truck spaced accessories. I got the motor for $250 and went through it with a $100 gasket kit off eBay and ran it on a diy engine test stand. I bolted up a 700r4 and adapted a TV cable to the LS6 intake TB (stock truck). To bolt the trans to the engine you just need a $10 eBay converter pilot bushing and you drill out the stock flexplate converter holes for the 700r4 converter. I opted for a bow tie overdrive crossmember since mine was a th350 car and I wanted lots of exhaust clearance for dual 3” with xpipe. Realistically $40 engine adapter plates, and a $10 pilot bushing and you can stuff and LS into just about anything with a non electronic trans. I prefer non electronic and all my swaps use lockup overdrive pre 92 transmissions. Accessories are stock truck spacing I just do a $50 fbody waterpump and 3/4” ebay spacers and a $50 accessory
bracket that mounts the stock PS pump and alternator.
going carb isn’t really cheap once you add it all up, intake and MSD controller is like $1k now. You can keep the factory truck intake probably or used LS1 and run a terminator X for $1k and it will run 50x better than a carb.
Well, he decided to go injected after all. Now going to do the 5.3 and 4L60. A buddy said to forget the hassles of the stock ECU and go with a Holley Terminator X Max to control everything.
Well, he decided to go injected after all. Now going to do the 5.3 and 4L60. A buddy said to forget the hassles of the stock ECU and go with a Holley Terminator X Max to control everything.
Curious, if one were to use 6-speed manual instead of auto, would the stock ECU still be a hassle?
Curious, if one were to use 6-speed manual instead of auto, would the stock ECU still be a hassle?
I've only had time to do limited reading about it. This will be the 1st time doing a swap. I have buddies that can help with some of the hurdles and I have access to a full machine shop.
Well, he decided to go injected after all. Now going to do the 5.3 and 4L60. A buddy said to forget the hassles of the stock ECU and go with a Holley Terminator X Max to control everything.
I’ve done it only with the factoey pcm. Depends on the application and what all you have. In all of my builds I used the OE PCM for two reasons. 1. I was keeping the car streetable thus emissions compliant IE OBD 2 being the vehicles were newer and the emissions folks along with visual inspections did OBD2 checks.
If the vehicle will be subject to emissions figure out what it will be judged by to be compliant. In my case it was judged off a combination of the engine/vehicle and the year. Engine couldn’t be from a less stringent vehicle IE couldn't put a 5.3 from a trunk in a car. Engine also had to be the same year or newer than the car. Because of this I always swapped 5.7s from Fbodies or C5s.
Figure that out before you decide. The factory PCM can do alot and if you already have it then Id be tempted to use it. The Holley from what i understand is a nice piece and definately has an advantage over the factory unit given you need specialized software for the factory PCM.
I’ve done it only with the factoey pcm. Depends on the application and what all you have. In all of my builds I used the OE PCM for two reasons. 1. I was keeping the car streetable thus emissions compliant IE OBD 2 being the vehicles were newer and the emissions folks along with visual inspections did OBD2 checks.
If the vehicle will be subject to emissions figure out what it will be judged by to be compliant. In my case it was judged off a combination of the engine/vehicle and the year. Engine couldn’t be from a less stringent vehicle IE couldn't put a 5.3 from a trunk in a car. Engine also had to be the same year or newer than the car. Because of this I always swapped 5.7s from Fbodies or C5s.
Figure that out before you decide. The factory PCM can do alot and if you already have it then Id be tempted to use it. The Holley from what i understand is a nice piece and definately has an advantage over the factory unit given you need specialized software for the factory PCM.
I've only had time to do limited reading about it. This will be the 1st time doing a swap. I have buddies that can help with some of the hurdles and I have access to a full machine shop.
Your driveline is different than mine, so I can't say for sure, but since these motors sit higher, the driveline is likely to be outside the normal parameters for vibration free operation. I modified my differential mount to accommodate that and have had a decades worth of clean power. What solved my problem may not work for you but I ended up something called a W-arrangement. Keep that in mind as I encountered a lot of nay-sayers here who had never heard of it. Quote here:
The installed angle of the rear determines whether the driveline is Z or W arrangement which affects the angular velocity fluctuation in driveline differently during vehicle vibration. When the swing angle of the driveshaft is smaller than that of A frame, Style W is better than Style Z. Equations are given to solve the installed angle of the rear bridge in Z and W arrangements.
Mocked it up to reassure myself, not the usual angle setup
I don't think I saw a budget mentioned. Are you on a complete GM crate engine, all wired and ready to go budget or is it a junk 5.3 and I'll do all the work budget? Makes a big difference in choosing parts.
I like what 78vette5.3 did.
Here's my LS swap, only some parts of it may be useful for you like the SPC upper control arms to help make clearance for the heater hoses or the Electric Borgeson power steering. LS Turbo swap
I don't think I saw a budget mentioned. Are you on a complete GM crate engine, all wired and ready to go budget or is it a junk 5.3 and I'll do all the work budget? Makes a big difference in choosing parts.
I like what 78vette5.3 did.
Here's my LS swap, only some parts of it may be useful for you like the SPC upper control arms to help make clearance for the heater hoses or the Electric Borgeson power steering. LS Turbo swap
Complete with accessories 5.3/4l60 pullout.
learning theres may be a **** ton more involved in this lol.
He was originally going to drop 7k on a blueprint engine
Complete with accessories 5.3/4l60 pullout.
learning theres may be a **** ton more involved in this lol.
He was originally going to drop 7k on a blueprint engine
Assuming it's a truck pulolut, So you'll need:
engine mount adapters (cheap and easy)
oil pan ( it think its an f body camaro, but it's been ages so check yourself) Don't get the GM performace one, it sticks down too low.
an intake manifold (the truck one is tall and ugly, but performs great. They can be shaved and possibly fit under the hood, but I havn't tried that.
You'll need some changes to the alternator and a/c bracketry. Truck accessories are tall and stick further forward than camaro or vette ones.
a fuel pump and regulator. Nothing crazy for naturally aspirated.
Assuming you're running drive by wire, I modified the truck pedal to fit in the vette.
Electric fan.
Sure I'm forgetting some stuff, Lots of info on swaps in the "LS forums"
Assuming it's a truck pulolut, So you'll need:
engine mount adapters (cheap and easy)
oil pan ( it think its an f body camaro, but it's been ages so check yourself) Don't get the GM performace one, it sticks down too low.
an intake manifold (the truck one is tall and ugly, but performs great. They can be shaved and possibly fit under the hood, but I havn't tried that.
You'll need some changes to the alternator and a/c bracketry. Truck accessories are tall and stick further forward than camaro or vette ones.
a fuel pump and regulator. Nothing crazy for naturally aspirated.
Assuming you're running drive by wire, I modified the truck pedal to fit in the vette.
Electric fan.
Sure I'm forgetting some stuff, Lots of info on swaps in the "LS forums"
Any LS swap advice?
