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Those are the "high-heat" O-ring kits from CSSB Inc. I was fortunate enough to have previously rebuilt calipers with clean stainless sleeves. It took some time on the wire wheel to clean up the outsides for epoxy, though.
If you have more time than money, lots of C3 parts are better with a DIY refurbish than buying a new replacement @Alan 71 was the master at this.
Can i install stainless sleeves myself? Or have it done locally without worrying someone will screw it up?
Can i install stainless sleeves myself? Or have it done locally without worrying someone will screw it up?
Your best bet in that case is to buy used caliper cores with sleeves. You need a machine shop. I think someone in Europe was starting to do these, but in the US, Lonestar is your best bet. CSSB Inc might do them, or farm them out, I'm not sure.
EDIT: Are you sure the ones you got from your neighbor are NOT sleeved? You have to partially disassemble them to check, but you might get lucky.
Last edited by Bikespace; Aug 23, 2022 at 09:00 AM.
Your best bet in that case is to buy used caliper cores with sleeves. You need a machine shop. I think someone in Europe was starting to do these, but in the US, Lonestar is your best bet. CSSB Inc might do them, or farm them out, I'm not sure.
EDIT: Are you sure the ones you got from your neighbor are NOT sleeved? You have to partially disassemble them to check, but you might get lucky.
I am not sure. Sounds like they've been on the car a LONG time. All i know is that they didn't leak.
Just priced out Wilwoods. $1500 Cdn landed. I dont know man... thats not a small jump. I LOVE the weight reduction, and i mean, i'll pay a lot extra for that, but still... Thats just calipers too. So i'd be using my old stock rotors on those new gems...
I am not sure. Sounds like they've been on the car a LONG time. All i know is that they didn't leak.
Stainless sleeved calipers have been around for upwards of 35-40 years now. You never know until you pop the outer dust seal - which should be doable without separating the halves. (You won't be able to reinstall it correctly though unless they are separated.)
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Originally Posted by Pale Roader
I am not sure. Sounds like they've been on the car a LONG time. All i know is that they didn't leak.
Just priced out Wilwoods. $1500 Cdn landed. I dont know man... thats not a small jump. I LOVE the weight reduction, and i mean, i'll pay a lot extra for that, but still... Thats just calipers too. So i'd be using my old stock rotors on those new gems...
Haven't you learned yet that other people in here love to spend YOUR money? 🤣 Ponder this. If C3 calipers are so bad, why did the vette engineers at GM keep using them for 19 years? The rotors have to be the best ever produced on the planet. My '76 had about 100,000 miles on them and barely any wear. So keep your calipers. If they're not sleeved, clean up the bores and replace the lip seals if they're not reusable. If they are sleeved. Replace the lip seals if they're not reusable. BUT, you have to know what your doing! Otherwise, you'll continue to have leaky seals. Hmmm.......4-piston disc brake calipers all around on a 1965 north american car............
I would not waste money on Wildwoods……just another solution looking for a problem. Properly rebuilt o-ring factory calipers work every bit as good. I can lock up wheels anytime I want and I have factory manual brakes. Mine have never leaked and bled the system without problems.
I might have missed it, but the C3 caliper is different than most in how the seal works. Remember, pistons slowly move further and further out of the caliper bore as the brakes wear.
In most calipers, the seal is in the bore and the piston moves through the seal. This means the part of the piston that moves into the seal is/was surrounded in brake fluid and has been kept clean and lubricated. The caliper floats, so if the rotor has runout the whole caliper follows the rotor movement.
In the C3 caliper, the seal is attached to the piston and moves with the piston. This means the part of the caliper bore the seal moves into is dry and only protected by the dust seal. This can tend to be more damaging to the seals and it is more likely the bore the piston moves into has some damage. The pistons are also spring loaded, so if the rotor has runout the pistons get moved in and out of the bore every rotation of the rotor.
In the C3 caliper, the seal is attached to the piston and moves with the piston. This means the part of the caliper bore the seal moves into is dry and only protected by the dust seal. This can tend to be more damaging to the seals and it is more likely the bore the piston moves into has some damage. The pistons are also spring loaded, so if the rotor has runout the pistons get moved in and out of the bore every rotation of the rotor.
All true. The issue, as you mentioned, is that with factory cast iron bores, as the piston and seal move toward the rotor due to pad wear, the "new" bore section has not been protected from the elements as well as the bore area behind the piston seal. Dirt, rust, and surface pitting just aren't effective surfaces for the seals to seal against. When I rebuilt my calipers, after inserting the piston and seal, I did my best to coat the "outer" bore with brake grease to give some protection. Probably a moot point as they're stainless lined and I'll never be wearing out my pads like a regular car, but I damn well felt better about it!
I would not waste money on Wildwoods……just another solution looking for a problem. Properly rebuilt o-ring factory calipers work every bit as good. I can lock up wheels anytime I want and I have factory manual brakes. Mine have never leaked and bled the system without problems.
So……the curse is actually something else.
I dont NEED Wilwoods, i just like that they solve this problem, but more importantly, drop 44lbs ov unsprung weight. I am weight-OBSESSED. 44lbs is MASSIVE,
Thats down the road though. I dont have that kind ov money kicking around right now... It'll get a new engine first.