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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
It's usually done to bypass a leaking heater core because they don't want to go through the effort of replacing it. It's also often done in warmer climates when people don't want the hot water circulating through the heater core and adding heat to the interior of the car. A pretty common Bubba-mod.
It's usually done to bypass a leaking heater core because they don't want to go through the effort of replacing it. It's also often done in warmer climates when people don't want the hot water circulating through the heater core and adding heat to the interior of the car. A pretty common Bubba-mod.
Thats the thing is I get that in our climate the water circulating through heater core can get the cabin hot. Also, the heater core does not leak (leak test with 15 LBs of pressure). I understand why doing it but look at what they put into the water pump. How in the heck am I to take out the fitting from the water pump? The thing is completely rounded off.
It would have been easier to install valves to shut it off.
grab the small square. it may spin out the bigger bushing. looks like they ground it round so it would screw on. may be an excuse to clean up and repaint the front of the engine. in fact, pull the timing cover and oil pan. a LOT of these cars got so few miles they still have the 45 year old nyllon timing gears in them. and they all need the gluck gotten outta the pan. pieces of teeth if replaced or not. pieces of valve seals. and they can stop an oil pump and shear the roll pin and leave you on the side of the road.
If the channel locks or pipe wrenches do not work then consider welding the square headed plug on and use that to back it off.....
Originally Posted by jimh_1962
Thats the thing is I get that in our climate the water circulating through heater core can get the cabin hot. Also, the heater core does not leak (leak test with 15 LBs of pressure). I understand why doing it but look at what they put into the water pump. How in the heck am I to take out the fitting from the water pump? The thing is completely rounded off.
It would have been easier to install valves to shut it off.
I know I can replace the water pump. This pump was already replaced. as far as the timing cover and the rest. It was already done. I could tell it has a new pan gasket and was told it has a new rear main seal. Nothing is leaking so I would rather deal with just trying to get the fitting out first before I go and replace the water pump.
Its heck of a lot easier to replace the pump on a C3 than it is on a straight axle.
Heat it up with a Torch or even a Hot air Gun and then apply KROILS Oil on it and let it soak in. Heat is what helps draw the oil in between the metal surfaces and the oil will then break it loose.
Vice-Grips are the go to for rounded nuts in my garage, I probably have 15 pair from small to ridiculous.
Heat it up with a Torch or even a Hot air Gun and then apply KROILS Oil on it and let it soak in. Heat is what helps draw the oil in between the metal surfaces and the oil will then break it loose.
Vice-Grips are the go to for rounded nuts in my garage, I probably have 15 pair from small to ridiculous.
Jim, I'm with those suggesting a new water pump. It's a great opportunity to lose a little weight (we can all stand to lose a little weight?). Get an aluminum water pump and you're off to the races! Any excuse is a good excuse...
Aluminum water pumps are quite inexpensive these days - although I like the Stewart's personally... there are others much less expensive. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/emp-22103 If you do decide to change the water pump, be sure to get the one with the correct 'pilot' - it will save you a lot of grief...
So here is the answer you have been waiting for..... Remove the square pipe plug... Get a set of internal pipe wrenches from Home depot. Use appropriate size and back it out... Under $20..
Last edited by rpiechowski; Dec 2, 2022 at 08:54 AM.
Simple and an anti-Bubba solution.
