Never say Never! Cold thick oil and high pressure running put a terrific load on the on the timing chain and the distributer gear. It's just logic. Just think about it.

Comp Cams screwed me on a custom billet steel cam which I ordered with a sleaved on gear to run a normal dizzy gear. So when it arrived late, I didn't have time to wait for another sleeved cam because racing season was coming up. They said that they would next day air their poly dizzy gear and everything would be okay.

So running around the track on a nice hot Saturday afternoon I did the usual shifting into 5th gear at 7500 rpm and the motor went silent and the tach dropped to ZERO. It wouldn't restart pushing the clutch in an out even over 140 mph. I got a tow back to the pits and we noticed the dizzy wasn't turning when you cranked the motor. Well the POS poly gear had stripped off some teeth. Comp cams explained it away that 80 psi at 7500 was beyond the design levels of loads on the gear.

another case in point. I use the best made billet steel timing sets with the best double roller timing chains. They are hard to even get on because they are so tight. Well every 5000 miles or a year or two they are sloppy because of the extreme loads.

 

Yeah....maybe I should stop telling bullshit stories and start listening to "The Doctor" a journalist....who writes for Summit. I don't remember that guy being there in the dyno room the day we back to back tested the HV vs. Std. volume pump on a solid roller 383 and determined that it took 7hp more...to turn the HV pump at 6500rpm.......this was on a Superflow 901 with a Stuska brake and we ran 8 pulls all together....4 and 4......HV and Std.
7 hp on an oil pump driveshaft is a LOT of load for the distributor gear.....NOT the timing chain, which could care less as a good timing set is strong enough to run a solid with 300psi on the seat springs and .800 lift........it is the distributor gear that takes the load......that spins the pump......
Not sure how the Hot Rod community got a hard on for high oil pressure....but I can guarantee that if you talk to Pat Musi, or Scott Shafiroff.....that they will tell you the same thing I am......how do I know that? Well, I was well immersed in the Pro Engine building community for a lot of years.......and we all talked amongst ourselves or friends of friends would share info......and one of those things was for a street engine.....NOBODY needs an HV pump.....NOBODY. To utilize the volume that the HV is capable of in a small block.....the lifter galley feeds and the main vertical feed off of the pump must be drilled out.......furthermore, I don't build anything that revs over 6000rpm now as you simply do not need to.....and that only requires 55-60psi of pressure at WOT until you run out of gasoline.
Look at Dart's literature for their Little M blocks.......they even state an HV pump is not necessary.....why? because the standard one does its damn job too well.
There are three four controlled leaks on a SBC/BBC...main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, and the lifter internal orifices.......on a small block, adding oil pressure does squat to increase oil flow through the pushrods.......but what it does do is create extra oil flying around the crankcase.......slinging off the crank.....decreasing overall oil control.
Anybody here can listen to anyone they want......but who do you want telling the "Mudshark" story? Peter Grant, or some guy who wrote for Rolling Stone? You Decide.
But I can and will back up anything I say with bulletproof logic......I can and will explain in detail how I come to these conclusions and you can judge for yourself......or listen to "The Doctor".......


Jebby

 

Free country. Do what you want on your engines.
But you should refrain from telling others they are doing it wrong. If someone wants to use a HI Vol pump, then so be it. Leave it be.

Myself, I think my Mellings pump and I will survive the 7 H.P. loss.

 

Common sense tells you that higher oil pressure requires power. Never disputed that fact. I also told the poster when he had 70-80 psi pressure that he needed thinner oil.

Where does the power come from to turn that extra 7 hp or to turn any type oil pump? The whole system from the Crank timing gear, Chain, cam gear, cam, dizzy gear, pump drive shaft, on down to the oil pump Do you think that churning cold 20W-50 and to over 70 psi hot might put an additional load on the chain that is not there when you are running 10W-30 and a standard oil pump?

There is also a point where you need to run the larger 55 mm diameter cam shafts to keep from having flex from one end to the other. I use billet steel cam cores and watch the base circle diameter and try to stay up around 1.000 in big H beam rod stroker motors. It keeps from twisting the cam from one end to the other and boys it's all driven by the timing chain.

Chains stretch directly with the amount of power you put on them and the load on the dizzy gear. The whole system to turn the pump gears. I personally never worried about dizzy gears ever until CC screwed me with a Non sleeved cam and their wonder poly gear.



Oil is what cools the valve springs. Just watch some videos of how high rpm motors can make the springs glow with heat. I would not run a solid roller high lift motor with 240# or higher seat pressure without a high volume pump and the best timing chain.

 

Hello All,

I know that the group wisdom is that my 20-38PSI while regular driving is more that enough but I already had the HV pump so I swapped out to the 58# yellow sping and installed it. I'm now runing 10W-30 with the engine warm my oil pressure is 30-55PSI so just about perfect for my nuerosis. One thing I did notice is the car temp. I'm running much cooler with the HV pump.