Don't forget this piece

 

It seems like getting this welding project started keeps getting set back.
First trying to get the frame cleaned up and ending up having it sandblasted.
It was a quick turn around but then I found that even though my welder came with an adapter for 8” wire spools, the spools were wobbly and didn’t allow the wire to pull as smoothly as I thought it should, so I had to send back wire and purchase 4” spools that work perfect.
Yesterday I was all set up, ready to start welding, moved everything flammable out of the garage, changed into long pants, welding jacket and gloves, cracked open the gas, put on my new out of the box welding helmet and it didn’t dim.
The batteries were dead, so I had to let it sit in the sun for several hours to solar charge the batteries, I even took a trip to Walmart to get replacement batteries just in case they wouldn’t charge.
By the time the batteries were charged, it was time for dinner.
What makes it a little more difficult is we have our new puppy and he takes constant attention.
We totally forgot how much work a puppy can be.

 

So we typically go to HI for two weeks in Feb. But the prices of everything have gone nuts over there. So we got a new goldie pup in Feb. As said above he was a bit of work when it was -20 outside.
Good luck with your welding.

 

Yesterday was a bust on the frame welds.
I’ve done great on some practice pieces and was excited to get onto the frame.
It was a bit breezy in the afternoon so I changed everything over to the flux core wire and no gas.
What a disaster.
Welding with the flux core is nothing like the solid wire and gas.
Totally different even though nobody says so in any of the U Tube videos I watched.
My first few welds on my frame are a mess and I’m too embarrassed to post them.
I think I could have done better with my eyes closed.
This morning I’ll switch everything back over to weld with solid wire and gas.
Wish me luck!

 

if clean. i suspect your feed rate and heat setting is your issue.. MAKE sure Ground is solid and close
even a 2-3 second tack should look ok when dialed in. try a tack not moving first..
as mentioned above as well , check polarity..

its nothing a grinder cannot fix.. posting picks may help some professional welders give advice

 

Ok, here are some of my practice welds with solid wire and gas inside the garage and some pictures from yesterday after I moved outside using flux core wire.


I think they look really good for a beginner.
I was trying different movements and movement speed.

These are after I moved outside with flux core wire and I had the welder settings pursuant to what’s labeled on the inside of the welder.




So this morning I went to Harbor Freight, picked up two welding blankets to protect stuff in the garage (basically my wife’s storage of her crafting supplies) and will start welding again this afternoon in the garage using solid wire and gas.

 

I have always preferred stick welding myself...I even have 1/16" rods for 16ga sheet metal...(Yes, it can be done!)
Flux core is good for tack welds...but it just pops too much and puts out too much slag for good welds...
But for people doing correct restorations, you don't want "perfect" welds anyway...
I always joked about C3 frame welds...
Imagine the time...1972, ...
Guys on break go out to the parking lot to smoke a doobie....maybe drop some acid...
Then go back to work and weld up some Corvette frames! LOL

 

I don’t care about perfect just good.
I have puppy duty for another hour or so, but this afternoon I’ll be back at it..
Once I’m done, I’m certain I’ll have some cleanup to do.

 

Some lookgreat!
see this good tutorial
https://www.millerwelds.com/resource...g-weld-defects

my guess is more heat to flatten weld.. you will hear when zoned in..sizzling bacon..

i like to make very small c’s as i move pushing ball..

have you seen oem welds? I cut myself from all the loose wire slag.
one thing they do though is penetrate..they are hot ..

 

I don't if it's for you but many, many years ago I took a welding class at the local tech school. Was very helpful.
Also I have a local welding shop that let me watch as they welded. Cost me a 12 pack.

 

Lol, the factory welds are much worse than my first welds.
I can see many spots where they went right through the seams.
Thanks for the tutorial, I’ll check it out.
I’ve been watching the Eastwood videos and they are informative as well as the series on U Tube by TimWelds.
His series of welding videos are excellent especially for beginners.
I would recommend either for anyone just starting out.

 

So - as I said before - I'm an amateur, not a pro welder - but to me it looks like you have too little current on those welds. If your machine is maxed out - you can try adjusting the wire feed rate a bit (try both up and down), and see if that helps - but to my eyes, I'd say that you aren't putting enough heat into the metal.

 

Thanks!
On each of those welds I was trying different settings which seemed to go from bad to worse.
Today I’m going back to solid wire and gas and see what happens.
Its very different welding a flat piece of stock compared to the frame itself.

 

Yesterday afternoon I started welding on the frame with solid wire and shielding gas.
I worked inside the garage after putting up the welding blankets.
It took a little bit of fine tuning the welder to get the correct wire speed and voltage settings.
I was still have a little issue when I realized I needed to slow down my movements and allow the weld puddle to grow and get a good weld.
I also found it is much more difficult welding on the frame with all the different angles, than a flat piece of stock on my welding table.
”Patience” was the recommendation to me and listening to that one word made a big difference.
Once everything seemed to be dialed in my welds started looking almost perfect, for a beginner.




There are a few areas on the frame where there are gaps between the overlapping steel on the frame.
You can see where the factory just put a ton of weld in the gaps.
I tried doing the same thing but it just didn’t seem to work properly.
Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to fill these gaps or should I just move on and not worry.
The worst area is the rear crossmember where the frame kicks up.

 

This comment would better be made with real time physical observation, and perhaps even participation in the event, this as there are many factors that come to play in the effort of attempting to establish a proper thermal equilibrium of the heated gas, parent material, and of the introduced filler material, in an arc in order to produce reasonable metal welding results.

But that said, first recommendation would be to reread Reply #12; and understand that your very likely sort on available amperage for this job, and this complicates the effort exponentially as a number of inabilities are then initiated into equational goal.

For example: when you demonstrate capability in the test weld process, that being the laying of a weld bead on single piece of material, this is not the same as when attempting the pre-heat (that which takes place just before the filler material is deposited) of the two separate sections, of a like thickness material, as the heat sum available is now divided as there is not a conductive heat communication between the two separate sections. One way to test this theory (and perhaps permit your successful completion) would be to pre-heat the frame section with a oxi-acetylene torch to say a bright purple (showing a dull red when the rose-bud passes over); this will reduce the amperes absorbed in the pre-heat leaving greater sums available for the filler rod material and greater depth penetration of the weld. And this also provides additional cleaning of the metal in preparation of the weld meaning less amperage is utilized in that endeavor also.

Just note that you may go from insufficient weld bonding and penetration to blowing holes threw the parent material with this practice but, .............practice makes for perfect!

Scott.

 

I no longer regret not learning to weld!

 

I get it.
This has been a new learning experience, but even though it’s been somewhat of a challenge and a little frustrating, I’m enjoying it.
Knowing what I know now, it would have been cheaper and much easier to hire a professional to do the work.
But now I have a new welder, all the tools, material, gas and everything I need, if I ever need to fix something around the house or make that little bracket nobody offers for sale.
My only regret is not buying the next size up welder.
When I’m done with this project, I’ll probably sell this one and buy the bigger one.

 

The positive learning experience for me was painting my car. That was worth it. Welding sounds positively dangerous.

 

For me.....it was critical that the appearance of the weld was just as important as the quality of the penetration. And after practicing....and grinding back off almost everything...trying again....grinding it back off....I decided to let my professional welder cousin do it right. And you have seen my frame on the 69 restoration thread....PLUS....it is not acceptable to me to have weld ***** / splatter....so every single one was grinded and sanded off...in fact I sanded and blended all sharp corners...because powdercoating sticks better on round corners than sharp corners. I laughed at the comment made that its better to leave the splatter cause its "original".....right. Maybe I should have had some amateur painter paint the car too....so the paint looked as bad as Chevy did in 77......Hahahahaha!! By the way...my 2006 Corvette has the same weld splatter on the steel frame!! GM still were doing it in 2006.

However....the welds you are doing in the above pictures on Poast #54 are more than adequate and penetration looks pretty good. And remember.....the frame and all its factory welding is more than adequate for the purpose of driving the car on the street....you really don't need to seam weld it at all...and I doubt anyone would notice the difference. I did it, cause I could....but not sure it really makes any difference for my purpose for the car. The mods you are doing were for race cars. SO.....point is....the welds you are doing are only going to make it better than factory......even if the quality of the welds are not up to pro-welder standards. I seam welded the 77 completely...but did not add the gussets like I did on the 69......wish I would have....but again. probably doesn't make any noticeable difference. Still worth doing at the stage you are at.

 

I guess maybe that’s what makes it a little exciting.
As you know, I am paying a professional to do my painting.
Thats something I would never attempt.
Now my next Jeep project, I might just paint myself, but a Corvette, no way.