I have plenty of jack stands under the car but can't run it in gear while rear suspension is hanging so planning to jack up both sides from the shock mounts... should be OK, I will still leave support at the frame as well just need the half shaft angles more horizontal

 

Oh I see what you mean, right because the axles will be at maximum angle.

I don't see why not, might be scary getting them to ride height, but to each their own!

 

thanks Kevman... im thinking the same but i believe i can get it pretty close with still just a little weight support on the frame and be good

 

I would not try that. Too many potential negatives. The differential does not move anyway and neither does the tranny. Since you are not sure about the tranny status just get a pressure gauge kit (I got mine at harbor freight) so you can check pressures after you get it going.

 

so are you saying I shouldn't put the car in gear, just check pressure at idle and WOT while in park?

 

YES. I would not put it in gear up in the air.
Check pressure at 1000 rpm in Park. If it reads ok then you can take it for a drive.
From my Stage 2 paperwork info I got it should be about 90 psig. Mine is running a little high (90 psig at 700 rpm) and it's on my list of things to adjust ....as it is right now mine can slam into gear pretty hard which is especially noticeable when I'm slowing down..... not pleasant but I can put up with it until it's a nice day and I feel like playing with it.
You can see where I last put my pressure gauge. Hose runs out of the vent holes on the driver side and up...tye-wrapped to that vent grille there. Easy to see it there as the tranny goes through the gears

 

perfect and thank you, I assumed I would have to have it run through the gears even if manually to get fluid through the system and get out any air bubbles, thanks again carriljc

 

Mine came empty.
Some things to look for as you proceed:
I initially removed the pan just to inspect what was going on. Since I had the pan off I installed a drain plug. After inspection I reinstalled everything and hooked everything up and added tranny fluid.

I also installed the pressure gauge. When i started it up pressure promptly built up so that was a non-problem.

Initially I had the TV cable intentionally slightly tight since I did not want to damage the tranny......and that was ok but I really should have used the Borescope for the initial setup. I already had the borescope but I just did not think of it.

I ended up dropping the pan again to change out the Governor and the drain plug really comes in handy, and saves on tranny fluid. I have changed the filter each time I dropped the pan also.

Eventually since I was totally uncomfortable with where my TV Cable actually was I dropped the pan again and used the borescope to set up the TV Cable. Just slight touching the slug at idle and fully depressed slug at WOT. I marked my TV cable sheath up top so I have reference in case I move it. I put in a new oil filter again.

Somewhere along the way I had oil weepage so I dropped the pan again and replaced the gasket with a fancy new lubelocker oil gasket. And another filter since I was there anyway.

Then i still had weepage so I dropped the pan again. This time I used 1-minute The Right Stuff gasket maker and really sealed the pan.... well, dadgummit, still had some minor weepage so I start inspecting. I found a loose plug on the passenger side. I snugged that up (it was probably me that loosened that plug when I was trying to figure where to hook up my pressure gauge). Then I still had some very minor weepage.... and I had to drive it, warm it up, and then check.... sure enough (as mentioned in this forum) it was the shift-selector seal. I replaced that and no more leaks.

 

I am setting the initial TV setting to full TV cable pull and full throttle... I just ordered a pressure gauge with 60" of line so I can monitor that once filled correctly and plan to make sure I have 70-90 psi at idle, from there I will take it for a ride for final adjustment.
This 2004r is empty except for the T.C. fill which was about a half quart, I know stock capacity is about 11 quarts, I'm reading some conflicting info, I'm reading to over fill a bit for a series of 10 second starts and fill and I'm also reading to leave the fluid a bit short for a few filling starts... or does it matter?

 

Do you have the correct location for the TV cable?Here are pics of the correct hook up point geometry w/adaptor for QJ. Phillips head is original location.Stock location will burn up trans

 

no I have a different configuration and should be correct, supposed to be the same distance behind the pivot point as the throttle connection is in front of it

 

Looks like its in the right location.

 

Golfobsessed
Heck, just put a whole quart in the torque converter. I put 12 quarts in the tranny. I let it sit overnight or so.
If you set up the TV Cable to be just kissing the slug at rest (closed throttle) and you can see that the slug is fully depressed at WOT, then prior to you going to start it just tighten the TV Cable a skosh and you should have adequate pressure as soon as you start it.
Mine had fine pressure as soon as I started it.

I read this article just to have some background info before starting mine. But really. All I did was what I state above: https://extremeautomatics.com/PDF/20...on_Install.pdf

 

great thank you... I was getting a little stressed there

 

thanks again carriljc, i could only get about a half quart in my converter but i do have the 12" converter and see it will take about 12 quarts total

 

I have a question,I see a lot of folks are using the filter from a 700r4 transmission,I guess it picks the fluid up better not sure,also would like to install a drain plug,question where to drill hole at where it will be out the way of everything. Thanks

 

that's a good question... I planned on installing it where the Hughes drain plug is but is there a better location?

 

Below are pics of where I installed mine. I did not want it hanging any lower than the already low pan. Out of the way and works well. I only brazed the outside because I had my oxy-acetylene rig already out..... no need to do it really.

 

I tried several different 700-R4 filters from different models. I couldn't get any of them to fit without having to modify the tubing on the 200-4R so I'm just using a regular 200-4R filter. Cost me money too because I ruined 1 or 2.

 

Yea,I cut my front springs to lower front,so,don’t see using a deep pan,but I think they make one in between deep and standard.