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I just went to the local hardware store and bought various generic washers. If I remember correctly you could use a 1/8" drill bit get the correct distance/measurement. I also use a ~2000 rpm torque converter.
Originally Posted by Golfobsessed
I ordered a set of .125 shims from Summit just to be safe, leaving the car up in the air for a while to do some other things, if you don't mind me asking what's the "odd" feeling, this transmission came with a 2600 stall, I thought I would be better with something lower with a stock L48 so got a 2000 stall.
I just went to the local hardware store and bought various generic washers. If I remember correctly you could use a 1/8" drill bit get the correct distance/measurement. I also use a ~2000 rpm torque converter.
thanks carriljc, if I didn't have a few other things I'm doing while the car is up in the air I think I would have just used washers, I read I can use grade 8 7/16" washers... the distance to gap is pretty close to right on the money 1/4" so I figure right around 1/8" spacers will do the trick, coming from Summit by Thursday.
I just drilled a hole in mine large enough for the two springs to fit, simple enough.
thanks Kevman, I did the same as the pic above, worked well, got it all set up but haven't adjusted yet, pulled the pan to see how it functions, will have someone move throttle back to grab just a little tension on the pump to get started.
Additional question, I have a Hughes deep finned pan, anyone with experience with clearance issues, while it's off should I be looking for a standard capacity trans pan
Golfobsessed,I went and picked that 2004R yesterday,for 600,it still looks new,he said it has less than 100 miles on it,he also gave me 2 TQ and cable he said nothing is wrong with it,seals look new,pan gasket new,lol....not sure what to think,just glad I went and got it. Blue one is 2200,red one is 2800.
thanks Kevman, I did the same as the pic above, worked well, got it all set up but haven't adjusted yet, pulled the pan to see how it functions, will have someone move throttle back to grab just a little tension on the pump to get started.
I have the same tci bracket, my TV cable is adjusted out maximum, it's the full stroke of the cable for the throttle, otherwise you'll burn it out.
Not sure what's done to your trans, but I've got the GNX valve body and servo, my guy said it'll shift hard. Can't wait to try it out!
I have the same tci bracket, my TV cable is adjusted out maximum, it's the full stroke of the cable for the throttle, otherwise you'll burn it out.
Not sure what's done to your trans, but I've got the GNX valve body and servo, my guy said it'll shift hard. Can't wait to try it out!
thanks again Kevman... this was built by BTO for a pretty high HP big block in a 55 Chevy... definitely overkill for me. So if I'm understanding you right your saying full TV cable pull should be set to full theottle? Is that where i should start to begin checking pressure?
I was starting at idle with just a little pull past slack on the TV cable
I would rather err on too much pressure over not enough to start
Last edited by Golfobsessed; Jan 2, 2024 at 07:23 PM.
Golfobsessed,I went and picked that 2004R yesterday,for 600,it still looks new,he said it has less than 100 miles on it,he also gave me 2 TQ and cable he said nothing is wrong with it,seals look new,pan gasket new,lol....not sure what to think,just glad I went and got it. Blue one is 2200,red one is 2800.
that does look clean... are you gonna install that one?
could be a home run if all good, a quick drop of that pan to see if there allot of black soot at the bottom of the fluid might tell something, maybe ready to install as is
Yeah. I would drop the pan anyway and take a look. Install a drain plug while at it. And since I'd have the pan off do the borescope tv adjustment.
Even if there is black soot this would give you an opportunity clean it up, install a new filter, get a picture of the valve body, do the drain plug, and the borescope adjustment..... lotsa bennies to dropping the pan now.
Originally Posted by Golfobsessed
that does look clean... are you gonna install that one?
could be a home run if all good, a quick drop of that pan to see if there allot of black soot at the bottom of the fluid might tell something, maybe ready to install as is
Yea,this is the one I will use,and yes,definitely drop pan and check it out,yea definitely looks good.but will know more later,hows yours coming.
it's in and close, I'm waiting on some torque converter shims (washers) from Summit, I have about 1/4" between torque converter and flex plate and want to get that to about 1/8" TV cable is all hooked up but gonna get it adjusted better and check pressure, still need to hook up the B&M lock up controler, will get back on it this weekend, installing the Borgeson at the same time, oil change too so taking time while it's up in the air.
Keep posted with yours, that was a steal... that BTO crossmember fit perfect
Another 2004r question. I have a Hughes deep finned pan that I removed for TV cable adjust, my car is slightly lowered front and rear and I'm concerned with clearance with the Hughes deep pan so I just ordered a stock trans pan and drain plug kit, I am assuming with that I need a different filter than is in the trans now so I'm ordering a gasket and filter kit, anything else I would need to change? Trans also has the Locar fill tube/dip stick but that should be fine right... shouldn't effect fluid top level... which with the dip stick appears fluid top level is just a touch above the bottom level (gasket line) of the transmission... is that about right?
Last edited by Golfobsessed; Jan 3, 2024 at 08:19 AM.
I also have the Lokar dip stick. IF it is the specifically for the 200-4R it is already appropriately marked for a 200-4R. I wrote to them and asked when I got it. Nothing to worry about there. You may be ok with the deep pan. Let me see if I have a picture of exhaust from the side..... I think it hangs a skosh lower than my tranny pan....gimme a sec.
Originally Posted by Golfobsessed
Another 2004r question. I have a Hughes deep finned pan that I removed for TV cable adjust, my car is slightly lowered front and rear and I'm concerned with clearance with the Hughes deep pan so I just ordered a stock trans pan and drain plug kit, I am assuming with that I need a different filter than is in the trans now so I'm ordering a gasket and filter kit, anything else I would need to change? Trans also has the Locar fill tube/dip stick but that should be fine right... shouldn't effect fluid top level... which with the dip stick appears fluid top level is just a touch above the bottom level (gasket line) of the transmission... is that about right?
Here is a pic I took recently. If you want a side shot I can amble out and get one. Just say so. I thought I had a side shot but cannot find it.
How much deeper is your finned pan compared to stock?
Here is a pic I took recently. If you want a side shot I can amble out and get one. Just say so. I thought I had a side shot but cannot find it.
How much deeper is your finned pan compared to stock?
looks about the same... 3.5" below the bolt flange, I am going back to "under the car exhaust" and will mock up the front pipes to check it, my car is lowered about 1" front and back, I already purchased a standard pan off ebay this morning so will have one if needed. Thank you again carriljc
Here is a pic I took recently. If you want a side shot I can amble out and get one. Just say so. I thought I had a side shot but cannot find it.
How much deeper is your finned pan compared to stock?
thanks again Kevman... this was built by BTO for a pretty high HP big block in a 55 Chevy... definitely overkill for me. So if I'm understanding you right your saying full TV cable pull should be set to full theottle? Is that where i should start to begin checking pressure?
I was starting at idle with just a little pull past slack on the TV cable
I would rather err on too much pressure over not enough to start
The guy who built mine was on the engineering team with GM when that transmission was designed. He rebuilt mine in a chaotic garage with parts from four other transmissions... Quite a nuts operation, but he does them every day.
Anyway, the way he explained it to me is at 0 throttle the cable is relaxed, and at WOT it's maxed out for the cable. I was able to use the factory cable.
I don't know about checking pressure, he told me not to touch anything except that adjustment.
The guy who built mine was on the engineering team with GM when that transmission was designed. He rebuilt mine in a chaotic garage with parts from four other transmissions... Quite a nuts operation, but he does them every day.
Anyway, the way he explained it to me is at 0 throttle the cable is relaxed, and at WOT it's maxed out for the cable. I was able to use the factory cable.
I don't know about checking pressure, he told me not to touch anything except that adjustment.
Thank you, I'm actually going to do mine today with help from my wife at the carb and me under the car, I had the Hughes deep finned pan but will be too low for this car... have a stock one on the way so taking advantage of the access, got some business travel this week but should be able to start/run when I get back and install the pan and fill.
Perhaps a silly question but can't I just support and load both side of rear suspension from the shock mounts to run the car in gear.
I still have a Borgeson to install and a few other things while the car is in the air.
Thank you, I'm actually going to do mine today with help from my wife at the carb and me under the car, I had the Hughes deep finned pan but will be too low for this car... have a stock one on the way so taking advantage of the access, got some business travel this week but should be able to start/run when I get back and install the pan and fill.
Perhaps a silly question but can't I just support and load both side of rear suspension from the shock mounts to run the car in gear.
I still have a Borgeson to install and a few other things while the car is in the air.
I use a two post hoist, so I don't have any input on that.
I would put jack stands under the frame rail if anything, maybe a jack in the center of the cross member to have a little extra support.