When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I popped the cork so gotta drink it now, 1980 corvette 2004R install, got the car in the air, removed drive shaft ujoints, removed fan and dist cap, disconnected kick down, shifter linkage, starter, trans mount, crossmember bolts, top two bellhousing bolts (from the top) torque converter bolts and dropped pan to drain tonight.
A few questions for those who know.
1. Do i need to fully remove the driveshaft, its still in with loose straps in the rear, i slid the yoke into the transmission and looks like plenty of room to move the trans back a bit to drop down or i believe i can just take the yoke out while still in the car, not sure how far back the transmission needs to move back... just to clear the liner pins at the bellhousing?
2. Is there a better option for strap bolts over the 12 point bolts, can easily see those rounding when trying to tighten, anyone know a part number or source for better bolts for 1980 auto?
3. There is a vacuum actuator at the back of the th350, can I just plug the vacuum line up front?
4. I plan on cutting the cooler lines if i can't remove the lines at the transmission, will attempt when I lower the trans a bit, if I cut them I can get them off once the trans is out. I will flare all ends and reconnect with flexible lines in a small section. I have read the 200R4 is opposite from the th350 with the in and out lines meaning the upper line goes to the lower port and vice versa... can anyone verify this?
I popped the cork so gotta drink it now, 1980 corvette 2004R install, got the car in the air, removed drive shaft ujoints, removed fan and dist cap, disconnected kick down, shifter linkage, starter, trans mount, crossmember bolts, top two bellhousing bolts (from the top) torque converter bolts and dropped pan to drain tonight.
A few questions for those who know.
1. Do i need to fully remove the driveshaft, its still in with loose straps in the rear, i slid the yoke into the transmission and looks like plenty of room to move the trans back a bit to drop down or i believe i can just take the yoke out while still in the car, not sure how far back the transmission needs to move back... just to clear the liner pins at the bellhousing?
2. Is there a better option for strap bolts over the 12 point bolts, can easily see those rounding when trying to tighten, anyone know a part number or source for better bolts for 1980 auto?
3. There is a vacuum actuator at the back of the th350, can I just plug the vacuum line up front?
4. I plan on cutting the cooler lines if i can't remove the lines at the transmission, will attempt when I lower the trans a bit, if I cut them I can get them off once the trans is out. I will flare all ends and reconnect with flexible lines in a small section. I have read the 200R4 is opposite from the th350 with the in and out lines meaning the upper line goes to the lower port and vice versa... can anyone verify this?
thanks in advance, might have more as I go.
I want to do this next. Keep us up to date. What stage trans did you go with and where did you get it?
I want to do this next. Keep us up to date. What stage trans did you go with and where did you get it?
will do and quite smooth so far, this 2004R I picked up from a customer of mine in Lake Havasu now installing LS3 and 6L80, was a high HP build from Bowtie Overdrives, I only have a stock configuration so overkill but couldn't pass it up, came with everything needed as well as B&M lock up controller... if I didn't find this one I would have purchased from Bowtie Overdrives more rhan likely... thats who I got my crossmember from. Started this morning and frankly I could be jacking the 2004R into place by now or close, taking my time as I'm doing it on my back and will keep posted
will do and quite smooth so far, this 2004R I picked up from a customer of mine in Lake Havasu now installing LS3 and 6L80, was a high HP build from Bowtie Overdrives, I only have a stock configuration so overkill but couldn't pass it up, came with everything needed as well as B&M lock up controller... if I didn't find this one I would have purchased from Bowtie Overdrives more rhan likely... thats who I got my crossmember from. Started this morning and frankly I could be jacking the 2004R into place by now or close, taking my time as I'm doing it on my back and will keep posted
Yeah I'm used to that. During covid I swapped in a T56 in place of a 4+3 Doug Nash on my previous 87 C4
I popped the cork so gotta drink it now, 1980 corvette 2004R install, got the car in the air, removed drive shaft ujoints, removed fan and dist cap, disconnected kick down, shifter linkage, starter, trans mount, crossmember bolts, top two bellhousing bolts (from the top) torque converter bolts and dropped pan to drain tonight.
A few questions for those who know.
1. Do i need to fully remove the driveshaft, its still in with loose straps in the rear, i slid the yoke into the transmission and looks like plenty of room to move the trans back a bit to drop down or i believe i can just take the yoke out while still in the car, not sure how far back the transmission needs to move back... just to clear the liner pins at the bellhousing? I did NOT remove my driveshaft. Just tucked up it up high int he tunnel and used a chunck of wood lodged aft to keep it up there.
2. Is there a better option for strap bolts over the 12 point bolts, can easily see those rounding when trying to tighten, anyone know a part number or source for better bolts for 1980 auto? Mine did NOT round off. Just take your time.
3. There is a vacuum actuator at the back of the th350, can I just plug the vacuum line up front? I did not have a modulator so I cannot provide any assistance here but I would suppose you could just lug it up top.
4. I plan on cutting the cooler lines if i can't remove the lines at the transmission, will attempt when I lower the trans a bit, if I cut them I can get them off once the trans is out. I will flare all ends and reconnect with flexible lines in a small section. I have read the 200R4 is opposite from the th350 with the in and out lines meaning the upper line goes to the lower port and vice versa... can anyone verify this? I would make every effort I could to disconnect before cutting. I fabricated my lines using SS braided hose but if I had real lines I would have tried to keep them. Let me look up the inlet vs outlet information...I think i saved a link somewhere.
thank you carriljc, you are right, I went back under this evening and removed the yoke and put it in the 200, plenty of room... I removed the rear strap bolts for nothing and they were tough to get to, I did grind down the chamfer on the front of a 12 point 1/4' socket and should help me get a better contact to those bolts to tighten but I did find some online with a hex head if needed. I tried a fitting wrench and couldn't get any leverage on the cooler lines, when I lower the trans down tomorrow and remove the fill tube I'm hoping I can remove the fittings, sprayed blaster on them tonight. Thank you again.
Golfobsessed
I used long extensions to get to the u-joint bolts. Worked well. You can try that when putting them back in if you wanna give it a shot.
I used 6L80 Banjo-Type tranny fittings to make the 200-4R fittings fit inside the confines of my narrow 68 manual tranny tunnel. You should not have to do that and after you lower the tranny a skosh you should be able to get a handle on those fittings.
Just FYI: I spent like a day trying to make a fill tube fit and then after I mutilated the heck out of it.....I said "screw it!" and ordered a Braided SS Lokar Tranny Fill Tube specific for a 200-4R. Later I saw that there a few generic Braided SS aftermarket fill tubes....but oh well... it worked great.... I temporarily tye-wrapped it to the wiper door actuator bracket and haven't anything else with it.
I recommend installed a drain plug. I'm glad I did since I ended up removing and reinstalling my pan several times over the past 2 years for something other. It makes a lot less of a mess and saves on the Dexron VI synthetic fluid I use....anyway, something to consider.
Originally Posted by Golfobsessed
thank you carriljc, you are right, I went back under this evening and removed the yoke and put it in the 200, plenty of room... I removed the rear strap bolts for nothing and they were tough to get to, I did grind down the chamfer on the front of a 12 point 1/4' socket and should help me get a better contact to those bolts to tighten but I did find some online with a hex head if needed. I tried a fitting wrench and couldn't get any leverage on the cooler lines, when I lower the trans down tomorrow and remove the fill tube I'm hoping I can remove the fittings, sprayed blaster on them tonight. Thank you again.
Golfobsessed
I used long extensions to get to the u-joint bolts. Worked well. You can try that when putting them back in if you wanna give it a shot.
I used 6L80 Banjo-Type tranny fittings to make the 200-4R fittings fit inside the confines of my narrow 68 manual tranny tunnel. You should not have to do that and after you lower the tranny a skosh you should be able to get a handle on those fittings.
Just FYI: I spent like a day trying to make a fill tube fit and then after I mutilated the heck out of it.....I said "screw it!" and ordered a Braided SS Lokar Tranny Fill Tube specific for a 200-4R. Later I saw that there a few generic Braided SS aftermarket fill tubes....but oh well... it worked great.... I temporarily tye-wrapped it to the wiper door actuator bracket and haven't anything else with it.
I recommend installed a drain plug. I'm glad I did since I ended up removing and reinstalling my pan several times over the past 2 years for something other. It makes a lot less of a mess and saves on the Dexron VI synthetic fluid I use....anyway, something to consider.
I did go down the crossmember tunnel with an extension... hardest part was just being on my back, i layed a rag across the saddle brace incase I dropped anything and once I removed the parking brake cable made things easier.
this trans came with the deeper alloy finned pan with drain plug and braided fill tube made for it which im happy about, I was gonna drop it to set up TV cable but I'm reading I won't have to if I use a pressure gauge and adjust at the carb
Golfobsessed
Beautiful clean looking unit. I have a pressure gauge installed from the beginning. But I really think the way to really set the TV Cable is with an Endoscope Camera (cheap on amazon) pointing to the slug (pan removed of course) and attached to your phone/table/or laptop and then adjusting the TV cable at the engine end through it's full range of travel.
I had done every trick I could find, and yes I had a pressure gauge installed, but I finally dropped my pan, pointed the camera at it, and I was pretty much discombobulated...... so i adjusted it while viewing from up top.
You can eyeball the slug adjustments here. Pictures aren't the best but you'll get the idea: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1605527708
Golfobsessed
Beautiful clean looking unit. I have a pressure gauge installed from the beginning. But I really think the way to really set the TV Cable is with an Endoscope Camera (cheap on amazon) pointing to the slug (pan removed of course) and attached to your phone/table/or laptop and then adjusting the TV cable at the engine end through it's full range of travel.
I had done every trick I could find, and yes I had a pressure gauge installed, but I finally dropped my pan, pointed the camera at it, and I was pretty much discombobulated...... so i adjusted it while viewing from up top.
You can eyeball the slug adjustments here. Pictures aren't the best but you'll get the idea: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1605527708
you lost me at endoscope ;-) thats probably a bit beyond my ability though probably the best way, back in the 90 when i put 2004Rs in some cars I remember just doing it with tension at the carb just pulling a little beyond slack at idle... not realizing just how important that TV adjustment was. I am going to use a pressure gauge, reading allot and watching some you tube, thanks again carriljc
I understand. I also did what you plan but in the end when I pulled the pan and checked the status my TV Cable was nowhere near correct. Borescope(endoscope) cameras are cheap and well worth the price. You can always play later if it feels funny anyway. I have found that borescope camera handy for other tasks also anyway. I added an image in case the link dies.
you lost me at endoscope ;-) thats probably a bit beyond my ability though probably the best way, back in the 90 when i put 2004Rs in some cars I remember just doing it with tension at the carb just pulling a little beyond slack at idle... not realizing just how important that TV adjustment was. I am going to use a pressure gauge, reading allot and watching some you tube, thanks again carriljc
Well it's in, no crossmember mod Golferdad, I purchased the 1980/1981 2004R crossmember from Bowtie Overdrives and it went in fine.
Went pretty smooth for the most part doing it by myself on my back, had two jacks going, thought having side pipes would make the job easier not having to remove exhaust but oh no... had to disconnect from side frames to lower the back of the transmission enough to get to all bolts. I have it in, bellhousing bolted up, crossmember in place, fill tube in as well, still need to connect the lines, shift linkage and set up TV cable to the carb. My only concern is the distance between the torque converter and flex plate, belhousing is bolted tight to engine but there is still about 1/4" between torque converter and bolt holes... I can slide the torque converter forward to meet the flex plate but is that kind of distance normal?
just did some reading, looks like I will need some torque converter washers/shims
Last edited by Golfobsessed; 12-29-2023 at 10:45 PM.
Well it's in, no crossmember mod Golferdad, I purchased the 1980/1981 2004R crossmember from Bowtie Overdrives and it went in fine.
Went pretty smooth for the most part doing it by myself on my back, had two jacks going, thought having side pipes would make the job easier not having to remove exhaust but oh no... had to disconnect from side frames to lower the back of the transmission enough to get to all bolts. I have it in, bellhousing bolted up, crossmember in place, fill tube in as well, still need to connect the lines, shift linkage and set up TV cable to the carb. My only concern is the distance between the torque converter and flex plate, belhousing is bolted tight to engine but there is still about 1/4" between torque converter and bolt holes... I can slide the torque converter forward to meet the flex plate but is that kind of distance normal?
just did some reading, looks like I will need some torque converter washers/shims
1/4" is fine between torque converter and flywheel, if it was 1/2" i'd say use some shims, but 1/4" is fine.
The swap was fairly simple on my 78, I tested it last week and it works, just need the vacuum switch for the lockup torque converter. It is a little odd with the 2200 stall, compared to how it was before with the stock stall.
1/4" is fine between torque converter and flywheel, if it was 1/2" i'd say use some shims, but 1/4" is fine.
The swap was fairly simple on my 78, I tested it last week and it works, just need the vacuum switch for the lockup torque converter. It is a little odd with the 2200 stall, compared to how it was before with the stock stall.
I ordered a set of .125 shims from Summit just to be safe, leaving the car up in the air for a while to do some other things, if you don't mind me asking what's the "odd" feeling, this transmission came with a 2600 stall, I thought I would be better with something lower with a stock L48 so got a 2000 stall.
Hoping someone has an answer, this is the correct TV to carb bracket for my application (Q-jet/ Edelbrock) I don't see a provision for the throttle return springs, where are you attaching the return springs with this bracket.
12-28-2023, 04:40 PM
Started the 2004R install.
