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Easy power. I was all about that when I was young and VERY poor. (now I'm old and poor).
What I learnt.
Changing out the exhaust system on my 77 was absolutely THE biggest bang for the buck. Consider of course that my car had the factory exhaust still in place complete with the awful Cat.
With that of course was tuning the distributor as stated above numerous times. And then getting the carburetor dialed in.
Back then I didn't know of Lars. I did know a couple people that claimed to know about Quadrajets. They didn't.
After installing a Edlebrock Intake manifold and a Holley carb. I finally got it dialed in.
It was HEAPS better than stock. Still had the factory heads and cam etc. But it was drivable.
Now of course a full exhaust system isn't free. But it will be necessary for any and all future mods.
Fancy crap like chrome plated air cleaners and such will get you nowhere.
Thank you guys so much for all the suggestions. I am going to put some Doug’s side pipes on i know they really wont help the power but damn i need them lmao. And then im gonna take all the emissions **** out. But my question is is there any very detailed step by step forums on how to get my distributor and carb right? I know you guys all mentioned Lars if anyone could reply with links to his step by step instructions to do carbs and dists it would be greatly appreciated.
you need to be more specific as to where you want power
cheap off the line power is torque
for cheap torque you want to get your distributor set so you are all in by 3000 rpm, you want a lower rear gear, you want a lower first gear in your transmission so either a newer 5 speed with a low first gear or an M20 or turbo350, get a good breathing dual plane intake that fits under your hood and headers with 2.5 to 3 inch exhaust and good mufflers.
more money but cheap is a turbo setup which will give you upper end HP as well. Much better than a blower as it doesnt rob HP to make HP.
anything else you need to open up your motor and get good flowing heads appropriate for your build, higher compression pistons, and a good cam.
Really expensive in the end is an LS which is very over rated becasue the cheap ones still only make 320 to 350 hp. The only plus side is a better machined block, maybe main bearing oil priority , decent flowing stock heads. You still need very expensive swap headers, a computer system, tuning, new cam, expensive pan, expensive fuel pumps and filters....theres so many hidden costs that add up but these guys wont tell you about that...BECAUSE ITS A LS SWAP DUDE!!!! IT SO AWESOME!!!
yeah i dont wanna deal with an LS i love these old motors even though they are low compression id much rather that. Ive got the exhaust covered. How can i do the dist and rear gear? Can you link a detailed step by step list?
yeah i dont wanna deal with an LS i love these old motors even though they are low compression id much rather that. Ive got the exhaust covered. How can i do the dist and rear gear? Can you link a detailed step by step list?
just to confirm.. your car engine is an L82? if so your distributor is fine as is..
Thank you guys so much for all the suggestions. I am going to put some Doug’s side pipes on i know they really wont help the power but damn i need them lmao. And then im gonna take all the emissions **** out. But my question is is there any very detailed step by step forums on how to get my distributor and carb right? I know you guys all mentioned Lars if anyone could reply with links to his step by step instructions to do carbs and dists it would be greatly appreciated.
There are no links to Lars instructions.....and he himself frowns on anyone getting them on the internet from anyone but him.....
E-Mail him at V8fastcars@msn.net. Tell him what you are doing and he will send you distributor and carb papers.....they are great reads.
One thing on these engines I am always pretty adamant about is the heat riser passage and the **** stock intake. The intake is a cork beyond 325hp, it is heavy, and has EGR......I get a lot of these to the shop and swap them out with a 2101 Performer intake......and a pair of 1204 intake gaskets that block the heat riser......also a 1/4" open Q-Jet base gasket from Cliff's.......
With a properly curved distributor, correct timing settings, headers....these stock 350's run pretty good......L-82 responds better than the L-48 with these mods as it has a decent street performance cam....
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Jan 18, 2024 at 09:18 AM.
There are no links to Lars instructions.....and he himself frowns on anyone getting them on the internet from anyone but him.....
E-Mail him at V8fastcars@msn.net. Tell him what you are doing and he will send you distributor and carb papers.....they are great reads.
Jebby
ohhhhhhhhhhh i see i see i will thank you i was unaware of that
There are no links to Lars instructions.....and he himself frowns on anyone getting them on the internet from anyone but him.....
E-Mail him at V8fastcars@msn.net. Tell him what you are doing and he will send you distributor and carb papers.....they are great reads.
One thing on these engines I am always pretty adamant about is the heat riser passage and the **** stock intake. The intake is a cork beyond 325hp, it is heavy, and has EGR......I get a lot of these to the shop and swap them out with a 2101 Performer intake......and a pair of 1204 intake gaskets that block the heat riser......also a 1/4" open Q-Jet base gasket from Cliff's.......
With a properly curved distributor, correct timing settings, headers....these stock 350's run pretty good......L-82 responds better than the L-48 with these mods as it has a decent street performance cam....
Jebby
yeah i was gonna throw a new air cleaner on it can i just plug that heat rise passage out of the head with a vacuum plug?
There are no links to Lars instructions.....and he himself frowns on anyone getting them on the internet from anyone but him.....
E-Mail him at V8fastcars@msn.net. Tell him what you are doing and he will send you distributor and carb papers.....they are great reads.
One thing on these engines I am always pretty adamant about is the heat riser passage and the **** stock intake. The intake is a cork beyond 325hp, it is heavy, and has EGR......I get a lot of these to the shop and swap them out with a 2101 Performer intake......and a pair of 1204 intake gaskets that block the heat riser......also a 1/4" open Q-Jet base gasket from Cliff's.......
With a properly curved distributor, correct timing settings, headers....these stock 350's run pretty good......L-82 responds better than the L-48 with these mods as it has a decent street performance cam....
Jebby
and if i have the money and im able to is the 2101 with the 1204 gaskets worth it?
Nitrous plate system is the only thing cheap and easy that will make a big difference without cylinder heads and camshaft, the rest is just small fish in the sea
and the **** stock intake. The intake is a cork beyond 325hp, it is heavy, and has EGR......I get a lot of these to the shop and swap them out with a 2101 Performer intake
I wouldn't say that a stock quadrajet intake manifold is a "**** stock intake". It works very well for it intended purpose, torque at lower RPM. For someone building a L48, LM1 engine with only headers, mild cam for low RPM's, the stock intake is probably better suited.
Originally Posted by Air_drewdy
yeah i was gonna throw a new air cleaner on it can i just plug that heat rise passage out of the head with a vacuum plug?
You're confusing the thermatic system with the heat riser. Keep your stock air cleaner. But do plug the vacuum line so that no under the hood air can be mixed with the outside cold air. The heat riser is the portion of the intake manifold under the intake manifold plenum that connects to the exhaust.
Last edited by Fly skids up!; Jan 18, 2024 at 06:06 PM.
Reason: early fuel evaporation to thermatic
The stock iron intake, and heads (even L82 heads), really are ****. But, you can still have a lot of fun with the car in the meantime. And if you commit to keeping the SBC platform, you can always upgrade the heads and intake later.
OP, now that you've found @lars, be sure to get all of his tuning papers, including the Q-Jet. It's a myth that sidepipes don't do much. They do a LOT. You'll probably see 80-90% of the gains of the perfect under-car system, for a fraction of the price and weight. And they look iconic and sound, well, really loud. Lars' tuning papers will also show how to rejet your carb, as the sidepipes will cause it to run lean.
OP I think it would help if you provide more information about what you have. In post #5 you said you believe it is a L82. Provide the vin number.
And just because the 5th digit in the vin is a 4 does not mean the engine is a L82. If a 4spd L82 you have a 800cfm carburetor which will work for what you want to do with sidepipes. Also it would be standard to have a 3.70 rear gear.. Automatic L82 would be a 3.55 which is fine and no need to change. Check the engine stamp pad in front, below the passenger side valve cover. Post a pic.
If you are eliminating the original exhaust pipes you need to concern yourself with a choking system.
Okay just wanted to say thank you to all of you who have been responding i greatly appreciate it. I also want to give a brief update. At the moment its hard to determine if its an l82 or an l48 the car is in storage and i cant really get my hands on the block or vin. What im wondering is if possible could someone please give a brief list of what i should do based on teh engine. No matter what side pipes are happening, but if it’s an l82 do i have to treat it different? Or do i get the papers from Lars and do the dist and carb the same way i would the l82? And i know that a lot of people say keep the stock CAI and i know this may be controversial but i find it does not look as good as a nice chrome one what would i have to do to remove the stock snorkel CAI and put on a chrome one.
Thank you guys so much for all the suggestions. I am going to put some Doug’s side pipes on i know they really wont help the power but damn i need them lmao. And then im gonna take all the emissions **** out. But my question is is there any very detailed step by step forums on how to get my distributor and carb right? I know you guys all mentioned Lars if anyone could reply with links to his step by step instructions to do carbs and dists it would be greatly appreciated.
PM me when you get to that stage. I might be wanting your emissions stuff.
OK, I understand, I deleted the stock Air cleaner many, many years ago. For the same reason, I just didn't like the look.
my engine compartment now.
Before we really can go much further, you really do need to know what engine you have. Yes it makes a difference in many ways.
No paperwork with the Vin number? Registration paperwork?
Does the engine have stamped steel valve covers that are painted? Or finned aluminium valve covers that are not?
Any photos at all from when you purchased it?
I am going to put some Doug’s side pipes on i know they really wont help the power but damn i need them lmao.
As usual, not everything is as easy as it seems. I'm sure someone will correct me if I mis-speak. Even when you pick up a set of pipes, the insert you chose will make a big difference.
Did you know Hooker / Doug make three inserts?
One is quiet. But to be quiet, it is VERY restrictive.
The next one (like a glass pack) is more free flow and allows more noise.
The next one is Hooker Max Flow Side Pipe Mufflers. The least restrictive and so loud.
There are also other aftermarket side pipe inserts, which I will not address as I had not used them. I have had all three. The restrictive ones just killed the HP. The next one, like glass packs still had a noticeable loss of HP but not too bad. The Max Flow were like running open headers power wise, but I couldn’t take the noise (I’m getting older)
OK, I understand, I deleted the stock Air cleaner many, many years ago. For the same reason, I just didn't like the look.
my engine compartment now.
Before we really can go much further, you really do need to know what engine you have. Yes it makes a difference in many ways.
No paperwork with the Vin number? Registration paperwork?
Does the engine have stamped steel valve covers that are painted? Or finned aluminium valve covers that are not?
Any photos at all from when you purchased it?
That’s the look i want right there. Unfortunately i had to put it in storage right when i got it because of the winter and the paperwork is with it. But i think its most likely a l48 the dash doesnt say l82 and thats the best guess i got.
As usual, not everything is as easy as it seems. I'm sure someone will correct me if I mis-speak. Even when you pick up a set of pipes, the insert you chose will make a big difference.
Did you know Hooker / Doug make three inserts?
One is quiet. But to be quiet, it is VERY restrictive.
The next one (like a glass pack) is more free flow and allows more noise.
The next one is Hooker Max Flow Side Pipe Mufflers. The least restrictive and so loud.
There are also other aftermarket side pipe inserts, which I will not address as I had not used them. I have had all three. The restrictive ones just killed the HP. The next one, like glass packs still had a noticeable loss of HP but not too bad. The Max Flow were like running open headers power wise, but I couldn’t take the noise (I’m getting older)
yes they are all very different i am going to do Doug’s flow through glasspack i love loud but it will also flow.
