Heads + cam upgrade
All I did was suggest to the OP based on the money I wasted buying my heads complete from the manufacturer.
Because I do things right, I had my new heads checked before they were installed.
Good thing I did because the builder found a casting issue on one head and it needed to be replaced by Edelbrock.
If the head was installed without checking it, it would have caused problems down the road.
During cam installation the builder noticed the springs that came in the heads were rated at higher pressure than my camshaft manufacturer recommended.
The heads had to be disassembled the second time and had to be machined for the new springs.
So I wasted money buying complete heads, had to pay labor costs for them to be disassembled twice, machined and then reassembled twice.
I was only trying to make a recommendation to the OP which might save him money and the frustration I went through.
I think from this day forward I will refrain from doing anything to help out another forum member.
All I did was suggest to the OP based on the money I wasted buying my heads complete from the manufacturer.
Because I do things right, I had my new heads checked before they were installed.
Good thing I did because the builder found a casting issue on one head and it needed to be replaced by Edelbrock.
If the head was installed without checking it, it would have caused problems down the road.
During cam installation the builder noticed the springs that came in the heads were rated at higher pressure than my camshaft manufacturer recommended.
The heads had to be disassembled the second time and had to be machined for the new springs.
So I wasted money buying complete heads, had to pay labor costs for them to be disassembled twice, machined and then reassembled twice.
I was only trying to make a recommendation to the OP which might save him money and the frustration I went through.
I think from this day forward I will refrain from doing anything to help out another forum member.
It's no problem man

Thank you for the advice. I think I have found a shop in The Netherlands that have the Edelbrock heads in stock.
I will check tomorrow if It's possible to inspect the heads when I'm there.
Sure flat tappet cams USED to be common. Not now.
How many miles do you envision putting on this engine?
This guy lost a lobe, original to the car, at 49,000. So even back in the day it was not an uncommon occurrence.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...974-454-a.html
I went roller and have never looked back. Sure it was more expensive. Judging by what you've done so far, is that an obstacle?
You have a relatively high mileage engine. Not sure JUST a camshaft is all it needs.
Your thoughts & ideas are wonderful for us "state-side" people with access to unlimited resources.
But UPS guys really hate driving back & forth to Belgium. LOL
My brother will go on a vacation to the States for a couple of weeks in Autumn (Okt. - Nov.).
He can't put the alum. heads in regular size (and number) of luggage, but I'm sure he can put bolts, studs, gaskets and a camshaft (and maybe a new alu. water pump) in there.
I will try to get the heads first, then do some checks and measuring, and after that make a list of parts that he can order.
Will let you all know! 😃
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Spend the money now to avoid the aggravation later. As another plus, You'll get more torque with the roller due to better cylinder filling because the valves open quicker and stay closer to max lift longer.
You won't regret it
Spend the money now to avoid the aggravation later. As another plus, You'll get more torque with the roller due to better cylinder filling because the valves open quicker and stay closer to max lift longer.
You won't regret it

Especially now I know of my brothers' trip to the US.
Maybe the roller option isn't that expensive (for the peace of mind)? I really am hesitant now.
I searched on the Edelbrock site and it says that the springs (that are already assembled in the E-street head) will have to be changed to #5845 springs if going for rollers.
Can I replace the springs myself?
I disagree about numerous Flat Tappets going south. I think it has become more & more rare.
As the public gets more educated about what NOT to do at break-in time, I am seeing / hearing less & less flat tappet failures.
Five yrs ago it was bad. Eight yrs ago it was really bad. But now with information about Zinc, valve-springs, RPMs, moly paste applied failed lifters seems to be a thing of the past.
All cam companies say that 99% of failures are "user / installer error". Because we men don't like to read instructions and the booklet with every cam purchased gets tossed aside.
We Don't Need No Stinkin' Instructions! Zinc? What's that? Vary the idle speed? Why?
Then we wonder why a lifter went south.
Every time someone thinks they wiped a cam lobe on this forum, I ask them what oil they were using. They never answer back.
So anyway, basically going roller is about $800 more than F.T. It's your car, your money, your call.
If I kept having issues with Flat Tappets, I would definitely look at roller. But I no longer see the expense just for street crusin'.
I used a nylon cam button and the steel distributor gear was good for use with my cam but I used a composite fuel pushrod. Because I already had roller rockers ad the correct springs I only paid about $500 to do the swap 3 years ago.
Then 2 years ago I swapped the 180cc dart heads with the 190 aluminum heads I mentioned above which I ported quite extensively so they are likely closer to 205-210 sized runners now and despite all the advice from the experts here to stay with a smaller runner I saw nothing but power improvements on my street engine which is mainly built for torque. I did have to rejet a bit fatter also. I did this after seeing 2 episodes of engine masters where they more or less disproved that larger runners killed torque on smaller displacement engines as exaggerated within reason.
To be fair I also had plans to either use these heads on a 383 or as it turs out now, the 406 im assembling for the car now. So while I wont say not to stick with 180cc runners, I dont think you would be giving up anything by going with say a set of the afr enforcers which are advertised as 195s as many who have already used these heads as well as the higher end 195 AFR heads ca tell you they perform very well on a 350 as long as they are paired with the right combo meaning cam and compression ratio as well as good flowing exhaust.
Its too bad you werent closer, I have a brand new never ran comp 270hr cam im looking to sell along with possibly the edelbrock 170 etec heads and the matching elelbrock vortec intake that came on the newly rebuild 406 I bought as it was originally build to be a truck engine.
Ive been to Belgium as my employer is based out there and I found the trip to be a real eye opener, I really liked it there and I loved how older people stayed so active compared to the states.
Oh btw my 355 has hyper flat top 4 relief pistons so 10.1:1 compression. I run 89 or better octane. The original l48 I bought the car with had the original flat tappet cam and came with a couple wiped lobes even at 98,000 miles because the kid that owned it did not know to use the right type of oil. YMMV
Last edited by augiedoggy; Aug 15, 2024 at 11:03 PM.
Now there is an out-of-the-box solution!
OK
Compression is your friend for HP & bigger cams.
I believe a 77 was 8.5 CR. And in reality it is usually 0.5 pt lower than that, so figure 8.0.
9.7-10.3 is a great target for a medium performance street cam.
I think you can get part way there by keeping the dished pistons and shirt block intact, but choosing heads with much smaller combustion chambers.
Jebby hasn't spoken up on this thread yet, but IIRC he likes the Trick Flow heads the best for this. They have the smallest chamber size.
56cc for the Trick Flow vs 64cc for the E-street. You want all you can get.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...w_wcB#overview
Not sure what that will get your CR up to, somebody here may know.
Say low 9s. Mid 9s tops.
To get more than that you need taller pistons.
That is still a decent step up from the ~8.0 you have now.
And they FLOW much better, which is real key for HP.
But I would sill stay with shorter duration cams to help build cylinder pressure.
Say ~212 dur or so as recommended. Still a decent step up from the ~195 that came stock.
(A ~224 would not do really well with that CR, it would like more. And the Q-Jet may not like the lower vacuum.)
So that is kind of your best performance limit with those pistons.
Going to a HR cam might run you a little more, as mentioned, but one big advantage it has over a H flat is at the same ~212 dur the advertised duration will be shorter, because it has faster ramps, and that change builds more low rpm TQ that you want and can really feel.
That way it will run almost as good as if it had 10:1 CR.
I'm just guessing say 50-60HP more than you have now? Near 320-330HP? (gross)
Very noticeable!
Decide if you want to go the HR route or not, and many of us can give you some good suggestions.
(The flat and the HR cams might vary by +/- 20?)
Last edited by leigh1322; Aug 15, 2024 at 11:03 PM.





Btw you should be able to bring them back to Belgium in checked baggage. Each head separately. I brought back about 50lbs of Belgian beer to the states myself.





Compression is your friend for HP & bigger cams.
I believe a 77 was 8.5 CR. And in reality it is usually 0.5 pt lower than that, so figure 8.0.
9.7-10.3 is a great target for a medium performance street cam.
I think you can get part way there by keeping the dished pistons and shirt block intact, but choosing heads with much smaller combustion chambers.
Jebby hasn't spoken up on this thread yet, but IIRC he likes the Trick Flow heads the best for this. They have the smallest chamber size.
56cc for the Trick Flow vs 64cc for the E-street. You want all you can get.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...w_wcB#overview
Not sure what that will get your CR up to, somebody here may know.
Say low 9s. Mid 9s tops.
To get more than that you need taller pistons.
That is still a decent step up from the ~8.0 you have now.
And they FLOW much better, which is real key for HP.
- Edelbrock 5089 (64cc, pair) TOTAL = € 1601,00 (+ 1 year warranty from the shop in The Netherlands)
- Trick flow Super 23 TFS-30310001 (56cc, pair) TOTAL = 2103,60 (Summit Warranty on heads???)














