I have had this 76 for about 10 years and when I retired last year I decided to restore it. It wasn't until I got into it that I discovered how trashed this thing was. Began when we were running and the bolts to the ring gear worked loose and blew thru the case. When replacing the rear is when I noted how much the rest of the car was degraded. Body mounts were trashed, rear mounts rusted out. New mounts welded in and all 8 bushings replaced, all new brake lines run, new universal joints, new fiberglass spring, VanSteel trailing arms installed, new wheel berrings, brakes and seals installed. Anything that could be taken off was sandblasted and repainted. Worked my way forward pulling engine and tranny. Tore down engine and had 1K of machine shop work done...bore 0.030 over, pressure test, new freeze plugs, the whole 9 yards. Installed a 383 stroker rotating assembly by Eagle, Big ***** cam and lifters, Flotek 205 heads, highrise intake with a 650 Brawler carb, worked out to 9.7 to 1 compression. Before I dropped it back in I rebuilt the entire front end..new control arm bushings, ball joints, anything that could be replaced was. I always had a problem with the engine overheating and noted I was missing the fan shroud. New radiator support, rad, seals from Dr Rebuild, and aftermarket shroud installed...not an easy task to get everything lined up right. When I filled with coolant I noted a leak from the freeze plug behind the starter. I informed the machine shop about this ( I was a bit pissed after spending 1K on machine work ) and they admitted they pressure tested the block before they replace the old plugs so they do not waste parts on a cracked block. I was able to replace the freeze plug while the engine was in and started it up yesterday. These are the problems I encountered....

1) The freeze plug I replaced sealed however once the engine started I noted a leak running down the tranny bell housing. My guess is that one of the freeze plugs they replaced in the rear of the block are also leaking. I had no leaks before they reworked the block so I guess the engine will have to come back out. I am going to pull the engine and tranny as one unit since this seems to be the easiest way without having to fight to line up the clutch...M21 4 speed. Needless to say I am done with that machine shop. The good news is I did not overheat in the brief time I was running...hit 220 degrees and stayed there.

2) Was a bit hard to start but when it did the thing sounded good but could not get it to idle right. Threw a timming light on it and could not adjust the timming to 8 degrees BTDC. The closest I could get to is 20 degrees. Sadly, my only guess is that I have the timming gears off by one tooth.

3) Oil pressure- When I disassembled the engine, it had the oil pressure sensor mounted by the oil filter. When I got the block back from the shop they had plugged that access off so I mounted the sensor at the top port on the back of the engine by the distributer. I found a spare wire on the harness in that area that fit perfectly. While running my oil guage in the car pegged and stayed there. It is a new regular volume oil pump and I can see in the valve covers that oil is flowing. I have read that the guages in these cars are highly unreliable but it worked well before I went with the new placement of the oil sensor.

Any thoughts of how to resolve these problems would be appreciated but please keep in mind I am just a retired back yard mechanic who is rebuilding this thing as a hobby. Although I have some mechanical skills, I am far from a professional and yes although I have learned alot doing this....I do make stupid mistakes. I do have a nice shop with a lift and proper tools. At least this time when I pull the engine I will not end up covered in grease and dealing with rusted parts. When I say that everything mechanical is brand new...I mean everything. Any positive input would be appreciated.

 

If it were mine, I would leave the engine in the car and drop the tranny out to remove the clutch and flywheel to gain access to the leaking freeze plug on the back of the block.
You've replaced one already and now know how to do it.

The timing gears can be checked with the engine in the car, before removing the cover put a degree wheel on the damper, pull the valve covers and check the valve timing events.
If the valve timing is off drop the pan, pull the cover and reset it.

I would either put the oil pressure sensor back by the oil filter, or extend the original wire that was on it from that location up to the new location.

 

When you pulled the engine for rebuild did you remove the oil sender brass bushing?
If not you can order the part from most Corvette vendors.
Then you can reinstall in original location
https://www.zip-corvette.com/74-79-o...t-fitting.html

 

Hello CV,
When I finished reading the last paragraph of your post I realized you were describing SO MANY of us here!!!
And it's all just in fun!!!!!
Carry On!
Regards.....

"Any thoughts of how to resolve these problems would be appreciated but please keep in mind I am just a retired back yard mechanic who is rebuilding this thing as a hobby. Although I have some mechanical skills, I am far from a professional and yes although I have learned alot doing this....I do make stupid mistakes. I do have a nice shop with a lift and proper tools. At least this time when I pull the engine I will not end up covered in grease and dealing with rusted parts. When I say that everything mechanical is brand new...I mean everything. Any positive input would be appreciated."

 

Now thats some good solid advice...TY. If I can get to those plugs by pulling the tranny, it's alot easier than pulling the engine. Once I work thru my bugs could I bolt the flywheel on and start the engine without the tranny installed? I'm guessing it is a plug leaking but if there is a crack in the block I need to see it. I don't trust the machine shop. I guess I will need to remove the power steering cylinder to drop the pan. It goes right across it with about a millimeter clearance...do most cylinders ride this close? Again thanks for the response.

 

Yes, a long brass piece that extended the sensor out from the block...I throw nothing away. I think I will try to extend the original wire and if that does not work I will relocate the sensor but If possible I would like to keep it on top.

 

I don't know why you couldn't start the engine without the tranny in, I've run engines on the shop floor braced up on blocks of wood.
You will need to block up the engine under the oil pan since the tranny mount helps hold the engine up.

I can't help you on the power steering clearance, I pulled mine rather than repair the leaks, I got tired of working around the pump.