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Thanks most everyone for you help and input. I will have to finish finding the problem next year. The car has been put away for the winter months. I can't wait to find out what the actual problem is. I've only had the car for a little while, but it has been fun working on it and learning how to do this stuff.
As far as the torque of the intake manifold. I had a book that gave me the settings. I don't remember the actual ft-lbs it was torqued to but I started in the "middle" and worked my way out in a "circular" manor.
"I found they installed dual valve springs where the inner spring was so small it tore the valve seals. Replaced seals with PC seals. 1Q/600 miles, no smoke"
I had a problem on a Ford FE engine similar to the problem Zwede described. Check your intake manifold vacuum. If it is low you may have a poor intake/head seal and thus be loosing oil down an intake runner. If the seal is bad enough it will effect intake manifold vacuum. I may be small enough to not be noticed while driving. It's a quick check. :flag
"I found they installed dual valve springs where the inner spring was so small it tore the valve seals. Replaced seals with PC seals. 1Q/600 miles, no smoke"
What are "PC" seals
I guess that's an old term... "Perfect Circle" was the company that made them popular. Instead of having an o-ring or umbrella seal ride along the valve stem the PC seals are attached to the valve guide. Here's a pic from Crane:
The valve stems have to be machined for these to fit.