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Control arms and spring

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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 07:57 PM
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Default Control arms and spring

HOw hard is it to replace upper and lower control arms and the front spring? I have new arms with new ball joints ready to go. Is this something I can do, or better off letting a shop do it. I installed the rear suspension myself with no problems. I just don't know about the front.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 08:11 PM
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If you did the rear you can do the front. Just more of the same...
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 08:13 PM
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If you can do the rear, you can do the front
Be sure to use a spring compressor, so you don't get hurt
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 09:01 PM
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I did it myself a couple weeks ago w/hand tools, and no problems.

The hardest parts for me were seperating the balljoints, and putting the coils back in, even w/a spring compressor.

Be careful if you have to drill the balljoint rivets out, it's easy to miss/enlarge the hole. My suggestion would be to cut the heads off with a sawzall then punch the rivets out.

Don't worry about the shims, you will be getting realigned after the aftermarket a arms anyway.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 10:08 PM
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i replaced mine with hand tools no spring compresser. hardest part was seperating the original 26 year old ball joints. now i tried to use a spring compressor installing my new 460 lb springs and it really made things difficult. so i went back to the floor jack. hardest part of the install was making sure the spring would get seated in the frame properly and still get it in the lower control arm.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 12:45 AM
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Hey Tony where are you in PA. I'm exactly where you are in this install...I just finished the rear end. Actually ran into a brake problem during the test drive that so that has slowed me up a bit. (Now I got stainless hoses and new stainless trailing arm hard lines) I have the front half of the VBP Street and salalom to install soon. So you know the old story...While I'm in there...I'm going to replace the lower control arm bushings, lower ball joints. the uppers look pretty good so I may not mess with them. The only thing that is scareing me a little is the ball joint removal off the control arm. I'm in southern PA...a half Hour south of Carlisle....If your close by come on down and we will have a suspension rebuilding party.

I'm not doing tie rods cause I got Steeroids sitting on the front porch.

Last edited by 75rag4sp; Sep 16, 2004 at 12:48 AM.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rcastor426
i replaced mine with hand tools no spring compresser. hardest part was seperating the original 26 year old ball joints. now i tried to use a spring compressor installing my new 460 lb springs and it really made things difficult. so i went back to the floor jack. hardest part of the install was making sure the spring would get seated in the frame properly and still get it in the lower control arm.

Same here, those balljoints were tough, mine were 35 years young. I tried putting the stock coils back in with just the floor jack, but they wouldnt get in the pocket. The hardest thing about using the spring compressor was getting the compressor parts out afterwards.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ewalker302
Same here, those balljoints were tough, mine were 35 years young. I tried putting the stock coils back in with just the floor jack, but they wouldnt get in the pocket. The hardest thing about using the spring compressor was getting the compressor parts out afterwards.
Just got my '75 front end back together. I used a spring compressor that went well. It's very hard to get the top of the springs in the pocket with the floor jack method because the top of the springs have a tendency to "tip out", or shall I say maybe because the pocket is slightly "tipped in" and the spring does not want to compress leaning in. I was successful once doing it this way though-as I jacked the spring up I had pressure on a crowbar forcing it into the pocket. I did'nt want to do it this way this time, so I bought my own spring compressor which worked great. My '75 having 147K miles on it also had very stubborn ball joints to get apart.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:33 AM
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I just went through this not long ago.... easy job except for those dern coil springs. Even with a spring compressor, it took a large crowbar and some muscle to get them in.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 11:52 AM
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I just did this on mine. Change to the 460# springs. They're 3 coils shorter (7 vs 10) and go in easier and give a better and firmer ride. I'm very pleased with my results except for the 330# TRW I put on the rear. I'm going to have to put longer bolts in it to bring the rear ride height back out of the 4X4 range. Other than the ride height my car is great. I went with poly bushings in everything except the trailing arms (rebuilt by Bair's). It isn't too stiff and it sounds like my Lincoln going over RR tracks. No shake, rattle & roll as in the past. You'll still need a spring compressor for the coils but won't have to compress them as much as the stock 280# springs. Auto Zone will loan you a good compressor for a $50 deposit. Good luck.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:03 PM
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The challenge I had with spring compressors is that they don't want to fit throught the hole in the bottom A arm and then I can't get the dang parts out! Corvettes are one of the few cars that you can use a floor jack without too much danger. I ended up putting my springs in and out several times before I got them seated right. The old crowbar trick works good but gouges up the powder coating!

pm
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:08 PM
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i never use compressors just a big pry bar if there stock height springs and if there 460 or 550's there shorter to begin with .
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:26 PM
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You guys who struggled with the ball joints...were you using a pickle fork? I thought the front was easier than the back, but I didn't have to put the coil springs back in. I went with a leaf set up.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by foundvettelifeisgood
You guys who struggled with the ball joints...were you using a pickle fork? I thought the front was easier than the back, but I didn't have to put the coil springs back in. I went with a leaf set up.
I tried a couple of pickle forks, and they just crunched & smashed up the upper part of the stock balljoints.

I used a socket over the lower balljoint nut and zerk, then put a bolt & nut in the other (square) end of the socket, then just tightened the nut to put pressure on the upper joint to seperate it.

For the lower ones I just used a multi purpose "gear" puller, one of those cheap 3 arm deals. They put up a fight, but I finally got them.

After doing all this, I was at the local Auto Zone, and saw that they have a little balljoint seperator (sorta like a c-clamp w/different size sleeves) for rent. If I had it to do over again I would try renting this thing first.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by pjmonfre
The challenge I had with spring compressors is that they don't want to fit throught the hole in the bottom A arm and then I can't get the dang parts out! Corvettes are one of the few cars that you can use a floor jack without too much danger. I ended up putting my springs in and out several times before I got them seated right. The old crowbar trick works good but gouges up the powder coating!

pm


A friend and I did mine and we used the spring compressor on the first one we did, but it created all sorts of problems trying to get the *expletive deleted* thing out. Did the other side with the jack and a safety chain and it went much easier. The shock tower where the spring seats at the top is VERY tall and there are so many coils in there that it's hard to imagine the spring flying out unless you drop the jack all at once.

We replaced the stock with the VBP 460. Took a little persuasion to get the spring lined up just so, but it went in with only a minimum of cursing.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 08:03 AM
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I saw a guy get the ball joints loose with a BFH. He just loostened the nut a few turns with the suspension up in the air, then whacked the side of the spindle. The joints popped out in about 3 whacks.

Tried it myself on my other ride. It works great but might be hard on the spindles.

FWIW

-Mark.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 11:50 AM
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Even the pickle fork will muck up the spindle a bit.
Nothing a quick filing can't clean up.

I went with the 460 springs in mine - a breeze to install - singlehandedly.
When I helped a local member with his front end install, we re-used
the stock SB springs. With a coupe giant screwdrivers and
floor jack - they went in with only a few cuts and swears.

My advice: go with the 460s.

Ooops - almost forgot the biggest pain on Dennis' vette:
The big bolt that holds the lower control arm to the front crossmember
was frozen in the cross-bar. I needed to torch it up and actually
fabricate a special fixture to get it out with a 2-jaw puller.

I'd post that thread - but it seems it disappeared from the archives.
New forum software sucks. I want my archived posts back.


Last edited by NHvette; Sep 17, 2004 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by stingr69
I saw a guy get the ball joints loose with a BFH. He just loostened the nut a few turns with the suspension up in the air, then whacked the side of the spindle. The joints popped out in about 3 whacks.
-Mark.
That's how I did it when I did brake and front end work for a living. Loosen the BJ bolt and smack the spindle. The spring pressure forces it loose. Then you lower the floor jack that's under the lower control arm, and let the spring expand. If you have the engine outta the car be careful though because things may lift unexpectedly

Youll find that if the engine is in the car a floor jack and patience are the only tools needed for BJ/Spring/Control Arm replacement.

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