Brake Ducts
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
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From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
Brake Ducts
I'm thinking about installing cooling ducts for the front brakes on my 76 - I intend to start doing some racing with it and wouldn't mind the insurance against brake faid 
. Has anybody on here fabricated their own? If so, any pictures would be appreciated.
Brake mods so far:
VBP sport rotors and aluminum hubs
SSBC aluminum calipers
Hawk brake pads
. Has anybody on here fabricated their own? If so, any pictures would be appreciated.Brake mods so far:
VBP sport rotors and aluminum hubs
SSBC aluminum calipers
Hawk brake pads
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Team Owner
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2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I can't remember Jason ever posting his duct pictures, but here was my solution. Big 13.250 GT1 rotors, with big Wilwoods calipers, Motul 600 degree fluid, and 3 inch ducting. 295/35/17 hoosier R-1 slicks on 10 inch wheels the front 345/35/17 rears an 13 inch width wheels.
Last edited by gkull; Feb 16, 2016 at 11:31 AM.
Race Director
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From: WI
the correct way to duct air is to direct the air to the center of the rotor, the duntov caliper mount/duct mount relocates the caliper to the rear of the spindle, it`s nothing new we did it on my car (below) in 1995, there is also a much cheaper way to do it than buying brackets from duntov
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
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From: Mid West
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Yes I did install cooling ducts but don't have pictures until I get home tonight.
That link shows my braking performance with my current setup.
this old thread may be of help
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...8-results.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...8-results.html
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From: rancho cucamonga ca
the correct way to duct air is to direct the air to the center of the rotor, the duntov caliper mount/duct mount relocates the caliper to the rear of the spindle, it`s nothing new we did it on my car (below) in 1995, there is also a much cheaper way to do it than buying brackets from duntov
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I used the stock dust covers modded. I welded on a short piece of three inch pipe that was ovalled on the output side blowing into the input center side of the aluminum hat style rotors. It would work the same on a stock style rotor only you would have to probably come in at a 90 degree elbow for suspension clearance. The bigger aluminum hat rotors was easier because the air duct is further out from the hub center
They closed our local road racing track. So I gave and installed it all on my friends real GT1 I think 72 BBC Vette
They closed our local road racing track. So I gave and installed it all on my friends real GT1 I think 72 BBC Vette
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Mid West
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Here's the configuration I finally came up with. It's hardly noticeable and has kept me from having any brake problems due to over heating them. It's not idea being only 2" but for a street car that sees some track use it has been a good compromise for me.
Intake duct is behind grill routed around headlights
Thru the factory air dam
Tied to the sway bar for support
Routed up under the upper a-arm to the back of the factory dust cover. Welded on a piece or exhaust pipe to the dust cover to aim the air at the center of the rotor.
Intake duct is behind grill routed around headlights
Thru the factory air dam
Tied to the sway bar for support
Routed up under the upper a-arm to the back of the factory dust cover. Welded on a piece or exhaust pipe to the dust cover to aim the air at the center of the rotor.
Team Owner
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I just used Naca Ducts from summit racing. Mounted to aluminum flat bar stock on the lower grill openings. I used 3 inch and Jason used 2 inch either would work. The biggest thing though is using 600 degree fluid and at some point running pads with a titanium thermal barrier to the pistons
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts...e205/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts...e205/overview/
Last edited by gkull; Feb 17, 2016 at 01:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
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From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
I just used Naca Ducts from summit racing. Mounted to aluminum flat bar stock on the lower grill openings. I used 3 inch and Jason used 2 inch either would work. The biggest thing though is using 600 degree fluid and at some point running pads with a titanium thermal barrier to the pistons
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts...e205/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts...e205/overview/
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2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I was told by Carbotech that having a shield like that bewteen the pistons and the pad will actually make the pad overheat and the compound will become less effective. I have made spacers out of old pad backing plates that I use when the pad is more worn to keep the pistons in the bores. The steel doesn't keep the heat in the pad like Ti does. Of course, this is what Carbotech told me about their pads, since this is what I use. Other brands might vary.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Team Owner
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I was told by Carbotech that having a shield like that bewteen the pistons and the pad will actually make the pad overheat and the compound will become less effective. I have made spacers out of old pad backing plates that I use when the pad is more worn to keep the pistons in the bores. The steel doesn't keep the heat in the pad like Ti does. Of course, this is what Carbotech told me about their pads, since this is what I use. Other brands might vary.
All racing brakes use thermal barrier, because the fluid boils at lets say 600 degrees. When it boils your brakes are gone and you are done. who cares about pads then?
Things never worked out for me to get into drive any of the Can- Am cars that we took care of for clients. All I did was work on them and fire them up so they were all ready to go when they left the pits for the track....... That particular has one of the original reynolds aluminum 427 chevy ZL-1 it does have an over bore and stroker crank. don't quote me, but I think I measured it to something around 480 ci