body mount question...
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Okeechobee Florida
body mount question...
ok...i have all of my old mounts out...
no problems...no rust...they came right out...
my question is what else do i have to disconnect???
i have read on here that the only thing is the battery ground cable...?
my concern is the front end..the closest mount to the nose is the #1's just behind the front wheel...
there must be something way up front by the bumber/radiator area...
im sure that the nose isnt just sticking out there without being attached somehow...
no problems...no rust...they came right out...
my question is what else do i have to disconnect???
i have read on here that the only thing is the battery ground cable...?
my concern is the front end..the closest mount to the nose is the #1's just behind the front wheel...
there must be something way up front by the bumber/radiator area...
im sure that the nose isnt just sticking out there without being attached somehow...
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: zanesville ohio
Just did my 77 friday,i just loosened the front frame bolts 3 on each side at front of fame and unbolted the rear shockabsorbing frame at the rear. Also didn't see a small ground strap and broke it. It was just behind the left front wheel in front of the carbon canister. You really dont have to raise the body much more than 1" if you cut the old rubber off the mount and pull it out first it will come out easy. I used the polycarbon mounts and supper glued the washer and shims to the mount. Made it alot easier to install. Also didnt have to cut the inner fender fiberglass on #3, you can work it around and get it up behind if you take your time. Has taken me more time adding shims to get everything lined back up than installing the mounts. If you remove your rocker moldings you can place a 2x8 about 3' long up against theoutside of frame and jack as there is the metal channel here instead of jacking against the floor.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Okeechobee Florida
Originally Posted by john1977
Just did my 77 friday,i just loosened the front frame bolts 3 on each side at front of fame and unbolted the rear shockabsorbing frame at the rear. Also didn't see a small ground strap and broke it. It was just behind the left front wheel in front of the carbon canister. You really dont have to raise the body much more than 1" if you cut the old rubber off the mount and pull it out first it will come out easy. I used the polycarbon mounts and supper glued the washer and shims to the mount. Made it alot easier to install. Also didnt have to cut the inner fender fiberglass on #3, you can work it around and get it up behind if you take your time. Has taken me more time adding shims to get everything lined back up than installing the mounts. If you remove your rocker moldings you can place a 2x8 about 3' long up against theoutside of frame and jack as there is the metal channel here instead of jacking against the floor.
nor which shock mount either...
got any pix etc???
anybody else want to chime in here as well???
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: zanesville ohio
At the rear of your frame there are 4 bolts at the end of each frame rail that attach your rear bumper/cover.Mine were even slotted up and down for adjustment.At the frontend of frame rails are your brackets that your front bumper attach to the side of rails,just loosened these to allow a little movement.Not sure i had to but thought it wouldnt hurt.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
From: Dickinson (Houston) Texas
When I pulled the body off my 78 Vette, I had to pull the frame assembly in front of the radiator that has the vacuum tank for the headlights. It is basically the front bumper assembly. Also had to pull the rear bumper cover and dropped the fuel tank so the body will clear the frame easier. You don't have to drop the fuel tank, but you will have to lift the body higher in order to clear the tank.
You also have to disconnect the E-brake cable, master cylinder, clutch, shifter and engine wiring harness. Pretty much anything that connects the frame to the body. Lift the body slowly and have someone walk around looking for anything that might be still connected. Nolan Adams has a check list for 'before the lifting the body' in one of his books.
www.bigdogvettes.com
You also have to disconnect the E-brake cable, master cylinder, clutch, shifter and engine wiring harness. Pretty much anything that connects the frame to the body. Lift the body slowly and have someone walk around looking for anything that might be still connected. Nolan Adams has a check list for 'before the lifting the body' in one of his books.
www.bigdogvettes.com
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
John1977:
I really don't understand how you got to the #3 mount without cutting the fiberglass - you must have very small hands - I couldn't get there...
I did not remove my rocker panels, didn't think about the lift points there... anyway, if you use a car jack you can 'feel' how much it takes to jack the body up... it's not much at all....
Glueing the shims to the poly is very helpful, it's very frustrating when they fall and hit you right in the face... especially when you install the #2 mount....
Good luck with the mounts, post some pictures
I really don't understand how you got to the #3 mount without cutting the fiberglass - you must have very small hands - I couldn't get there...
I did not remove my rocker panels, didn't think about the lift points there... anyway, if you use a car jack you can 'feel' how much it takes to jack the body up... it's not much at all....
Glueing the shims to the poly is very helpful, it's very frustrating when they fall and hit you right in the face... especially when you install the #2 mount....
Good luck with the mounts, post some pictures
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: zanesville ohio
On #3 if you go between the inner fender just below the access cover and toward the area near where your trailing arm bolt comes thru there is enough room. Only raising the body 1" to 1 1/2" you do not have to remove master cylinder,parking brake cable ect. No i dont have small hands, 6' 190lbs . It took about 4-5 hours to get in and bolted back down.
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,685
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From: Waterford Mi
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by john1977
On #3 if you go between the inner fender just below the access cover and toward the area near where your trailing arm bolt comes thru there is enough room. Only raising the body 1" to 1 1/2" you do not have to remove master cylinder,parking brake cable ect. No i dont have small hands, 6' 190lbs . It took about 4-5 hours to get in and bolted back down.
I gave up after 10 minutes and got the Dremel out of the toolbox.....
Besides, the bolt wouldn't come out on the driver side so I had to get better access anyway.... finally the bolt came out: I had a old screwdriver wedged between cage and nut to keep it from turning... then I had to weld the nut back to the cage....
My body mount replacement was a nightmare but well worth it... I don't think I'll ever have to mess with them again, at least not for the next 20 years...
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Leander TX
I didn't completely unbolt the body from the frame in front and I had already did away with the rear bumper cover on my 75' and replaced it with a custom fiberglass one. So I once I had unbolted (or busted off) all the body mount bolts, I just lifted the body from the rear a few inches. I had to make some custom plates to reinforce were the body had rusted in the kick panels (where all the water goes from the T-Tops leaking) and a rusted rear frame mount. Make sure you keep track of the shims. And all i started out doing was a motor swap 
Here's my gallery.. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...0/ppuser/42228
Here's my gallery.. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...0/ppuser/42228