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Thanks for all the responses! Great information there!
Eddie, I'm not trying to be consistent wit the spray...just fast... I will only occasionally run spray... Especially when bracket racing I'll run on engine only...
Eddie no someone else,but i just finished modifying a newer style sending unit and fuel pump from an injection car and modded it to fit my 73 tank do i can run #6 an aeroquip hoses and fittings.
And for the bottle warmers,when i was running my mustang gt 5.0 i didnt have one and my times were always inconsistent till i added it,one run might be 13.6 other week it could be 12.9's.
The only difference between running consistently on the spray, or having it to just have fun with every now and then, is a progressive or timed controller to control wheel spin.
Everything else should be set up exactly the same way with your fuel delivery sys being the most important part, for fun or racing.
A nitrous sys set up correctly is as safe on your motor as just romping on the gas. It's a blast to drive and will put a grin on your face from ear to ear.
I just don't want to see you hurt your new motor by strapping a cheap kit on it with only the minimum stuff you'll need. The kits you see advertized are just the base components you'll need, they conveniently leave out the other stuff you'll need to run it safely without blowing up your motor. A total cost to saftley run nitrous on any motor is around $1000-$1200 with all the extra stuff.
Those kits might be safe to run by themselves on a stock motor, but on a high compression, large cu in racing engine they behave completly different.
You may want to consider a 2 stage system. Give it an extra 50 or so on launch and then bring in the other 75-200 at 330' or so. That's what I'm gonna use on my current project. (the reason MARK changed to H-beams)
You'll just waste tires and go no where and the engine will want to go right to the limiter. I have my window switch set to come on at above 3000rpm at WOT and then shut down at 6400 before the rec limiter. This way I'm off the line and the car is moving. Because once the shot starts, all hell breaks loose!!!
Don't think that my tires will be spinning.. I got 28 x 13.5 - 15 ET Street tires and full suspension (90/10's in front and 600 lbs/inch fiberglass spring in the rear)
If you're interested in nitrous, I would suggest checking out rarebear.com. Rare Bear is a WWII Grummand Bearcat that's been modified for Reno Unlimited Racing. The military Bearcats were introduced late during the WWII time frame and I don't think they saw any combat action.
The Grumman Bear Cat (F8F2) was produced with a 2700 HP Wright engine. Rare Bear runs, in the high power mode, on nitrous oxide. The websit lists the engine, with nitrous, as running at above 4000 HP. Actually, I've read other places that Rare Bear is actually running at about 6500 HP on nitrous.
Some additional information about nitrous. I believe it was the German Luftwaffe that really made a name for nitrous. During WWII they powered some of their Messerschmits BF109's with nitrous.
Tell me if I'm wrong about any of this!! I want to learn.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Jan 11, 2005 at 11:59 PM.
TRACTION!! Possibly. Have you used N2O before? If you haven't you are in for a RIDE. Especially off the line. First time I did it, scared the ....outta me.
Last edited by nastee383; Jan 12, 2005 at 12:17 PM.
Ced, what are you using for tires, and are you using 90/10's and a stiff rear spring?
I can't possible imagine that I'll have any problems with traction... I've seen 1000+ HP cars launch with smaller tires than I have and they had no traction issues.. I think that getting traction is mostly a suspension (weight transfer) issue...
Ced, what are you using for tires, and are you using 90/10's and a stiff rear spring?
I can't possible imagine that I'll have any problems with traction... I've seen 1000+ HP cars launch with smaller tires than I have and they had no traction issues.. I think that getting traction is mostly a suspension (weight transfer) issue...
My suspension is pretty much stock configured. All poly bushings, smart struts, KYB shocks, 330lb glass spring, poly snubber cushion and those alum discs that help locate the rearend, swaybars front and rear. Tires are 275/50/15 BFG Drag Radials. Of course my motor is nowhere near what yours is power wise. With a 125 shot I was lucky to be making 500hp but I have pulled a bunch of 1.5's and a best 1.49 sixty foot with this setup. It has even pulled the driver's side tire an inch or two before.
My suspension is pretty much stock configured. All poly bushings, smart struts, KYB shocks, 330lb glass spring, poly snubber cushion and those alum discs that help locate the rearend, swaybars front and rear. Tires are 275/50/15 BFG Drag Radials. Of course my motor is nowhere near what yours is power wise. With a 125 shot I was lucky to be making 500hp but I have pulled a bunch of 1.5's and a best 1.49 sixty foot with this setup. It has even pulled the driver's side tire an inch or two before.
Ok.. I can see why you have a traction problem... The 330 lbs/inch spring is the same spring that I currently use... It's way too soft... It probably bottoms out and that's when you loose traction... My new spring will be 600 lbs/inch and the car shouldn't squat too much with it...
I can't wait to try my new setup.. Don't think that I will have any traction problems...
I just don't want to see you hurt your new motor by strapping a cheap kit on it with only the minimum stuff you'll need. The kits you see advertized are just the base components you'll need, they conveniently leave out the other stuff you'll need to run it safely without blowing up your motor. A total cost to saftley run nitrous on any motor is around $1000-$1200 with all the extra stuff.
Eddie, I could not have said this any better. I've been trying to explain this to "O" (GSC3) but it never seemed to come out the way you put it.
He's got LOTA $$$ (to bad not enough HP ) into his new set-up and would really hate to see him hurt it.
Eddie, I could not have said this any better. I've been trying to explain this to "O" (GSC3) but it never seemed to come out the way you put it.
He's got LOTA $$$ (to bad not enough HP ) into his new set-up and would really hate to see him hurt it.
I know what you mean Norm, but nitrous can be very safe for a motor IF it's setup right.
Olivers good at research, he just needs to read up on the subject thoroughly before he goes to putting parts on.
I just can't seem to stress to him enough, about how important the fuel delivery sys is to a nitrous motor. 140 gph pump might be fine to supply a hot engine, but it's on the small size of flirting with disaster on a nitroused motor. As long as you don't run it lean, and the rest of the internals are strong enough (which his is) it can be a "LOTA" fun
I haven't read the entire post but just want to give you my 2 cents.
I have hooked up alot of nitrous systems for the local guys as well as run them myself and have a Big shot on the mustang.
You have to run wet with a carb
For 100 horse you need to change nothing. I also run my jets square at 100, meaning the nitrous and gas are the same, well actually I have only one of each so I set the gas the one number higher then the nitrous.
Keep the lines short from the solenoids to the plate for a harder hit.
Leave the timming alone and th plugs.
A bottle heater is used to raise the pressure to a consistent level.
At 150 you need a step colder plugs. I also ran a timing computer that retarted the timing automatically as soon as the solenoids openned allowing me to run normal timming.
You should consider a didicated fuel system, it's own pump and lines for the fuel.
You need an arming switch and a micro switch on the carb. Nitrous can not be run at part throttle, only full throttle.
I have seen 100 horse drop et by over 1 second.
Anyway if you ever want to ask questions about nitrous email me and I will try to answer.
I have used it alot in the past.
All that changed with the blower.