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When going from naturally aspired to NOS, is there a rule of thumb on changes in carb jetting? I assume that I'll ned bigger jets when running spray..
What about timing? How many degrees do I have to retard the timing for a 150 shot?
You shouldn't need to change jet sizes if you are running a wet system, My Nitrous Express system uses a plate that adds the extra fuel and atomizes it. I think I am about 6 degrees of retarded :P
The general rule is for every 50hp retard 1 degree and one stage colder plugs. Though most people I know retard until after 100hp shots and 200hp shots and above you should have the block o-ringed.
No you don't need to change the jets in the carb. The kit you buy will have a chart of what jets to run in the spray bar plate for different HP levels. These are safe jetting combos. If you have a lot of black smoke (unburnt fuel) on your passes you can adjust them slightly or if you plan to run a progressive controller some have provisions to lean the fuel a bit without changing jets in the plate
The timing depends alot on the manufactor of the nitrous system. 2 degrees for every 50 is a common rule. some motors like more, some like less. You'll have to read your plugs to find out what yours wants.
Run plugs that are about 2 ranges cooler to start out.
Bigggest thing is read your plugs, be careful about adjusting the jetting or timing. Listen for detonation and read the plugs for signs of detonation. If you run a nitrous motor lean you will break it.
You shouldn't need to change jet sizes if you are running a wet system, My Nitrous Express system uses a plate that adds the extra fuel and atomizes it. I think I am about 6 degrees of retarded :P
No you don't need to change the jets in the carb. The kit you buy will have a chart of what jets to run in the spray bar plate for different HP levels. These are safe jetting combos. If you have a lot of black smoke (unburnt fuel) on your passes you can adjust them slightly or if you plan to run a progressive controller some have provisions to lean the fuel a bit without changing jets in the plate
The timing depends alot on the manufactor of the nitrous system. 2 degrees for every 50 is a common rule. some motors like more, some like less. You'll have to read your plugs to find out what yours wants.
Run plugs that are about 2 ranges cooler to start out.
Bigggest thing is read your plugs, be careful about adjusting the jetting or timing. Listen for detonation and read the plugs for signs of detonation. If you run a nitrous motor lean you will break it.
What kind of fuel sys are you running?
Fuel system?? I run a Holley 80514 - 1000 cfm carb...
I don't mean the carb, I'm talking about pump, line sizes, regulators
If your running a dominator carb that sniper won't work they don't make them with a spread bore base, also it has small cheap plastic solenoids that wear out quickly. You have to go to the cheater series to get decent soleniods, my purge solenoid is the same one they use on the snipers and powershots if that tells you anything.
I don't mean the carb, I'm talking about pump, line sizes, regulators
If your running a dominator carb that sniper won't work they don't make them with a spread bore base, also it has small cheap plastic solenoids that wear out quickly. You have to go to the cheater series to get decent soleniods, my purge solenoid is the same one they use on the snipers and powershots if that tells you anything.
I use a electrical 140 gph Summit pump and regulator.. Line size is stock.. There isn't really an option to go with larger fuel line size with the stock tank because the fuel level sender unit where the fuel system hooks up to is only available in one size and.. even if I'd change the rest of the fuel lines.. it'd still be the bottleneck... I should be ok with the stock fuel lines.. I've seen cars with similar setups with the stock fuel lines..
At 100 shot you ought to be OK with that setup, but I seriously doubt it would feed that 406 and nitrous too at 150
Like 78vette said you'll also need:
Hobbs switch
Heater
Pressure gauge
Blow down tube
Purge kit
Window switch or Progressive controller
Heater?? What is that good for??
Anyway - I'm not ready to get a system yet.. I'll race the car on engine for about a month or 2 and then I'll add spray...
What are the options for fuels system upgrade? How could I upgrade fuel line size?? The bottle neck will be still the fuel sender unit.. Do you know of any unit with a larger fuel outlet??
The bottle heater is to keep the pressure up and regulated on the bottle. Without it you will never have consistent times at the track
You could go with a sump welded in the bottom of your stock tank, I've seen guys that just drill holes in the bottom of the tank and screw bulkhead connectors in it and cap off the original line. That way you don't have to change to a cell and the sender still works and run AN lines
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
The sniper system is not a very good system. Oliver, give my buddies at nitrous supply.com a call and they will beat Summits prices. This company is run by Mike Thermos (Founder of NOS) 714 373 1986. Ask
for Mike Nelson or Mike Flynn, I know everyone there is named Mike.
For a 150 shot and good gas, a 2-6 degree retard is where you will want to be. You want the heat mark to be at the bend in the plug or less, if it is getting close to the threads you are getting a little hot.
As far as the carb goes; with a wet system and a small shot, there will be no need to do anything to it. As the shots get big you run less jet in the carb. This is due to the fact there is less signal from the motor due to the nitrous pressurizing the manifold. There is also work done to the boosters so they will pull fuel with less signal, for the same reason. This starts to apply at around the 250-350 hp level.
I would not feel comfortable running the motor and nitrous off one black pump. I would back it up with a seperate pump and line, a Holley 110 is fine and they come with one of the best regulators in the biz.
Bottle pressure should be no less than 800psi and best probably in the range of 950-1000psi for runs. The minute you take a run pressure will drop unless you immediately refill the bottole. If it's cooler out, as an example, even a full bottle can and will register well below 800psi until you warm it up and expand the gas and increase pressure. As mentioned, without it you will have no consistency.
Warmers come with a relay and thermostat to turn on below 900psi degrees and shut off around 1050psi to keep it in that sweet spot.
The blow-down tube, as mentioned, is also required at most tracks. If the bottle goes over 3000psi for some reason, a release cap blows and then the nitrous goes out the blow-down tube, out of the car, instead of in it. I use medical grade Nitrous so I'd rather it blow in the car!
eddie not all efi cars,i run a wet system in mine,some are dry some are wet depends on the system for efi.All of my carb setups have always been wet too.
Also agree about a wot switch,not just a push button .