I've seen people running similar setups like mine and they still had stock fuel lines.. I think that I should be ok...

 

If you stay at the 150 hp level you will be fine. The way Norval describes allows for a lot of growth, and nitrous is addictive

Make sure you run one of the cheap Holley regulators deadheaded into the nitrous fuel side. Also run a WOT switch and a rev limiter. Not a good thing to bump the rev limiter on the squeeze, but with a small shot you should be ok. I like to run a window switch. I also like to bleed the nitrous side fuel line before I make a run. I turn on the system and close the valve on the bottle. Rev the motor up to around 2500 rpms and give the WOT switch a couple of short presses until the fuel selinoid opens and dumps a little fuel into the intake, you will know when this happens because the motor will suddenly drop a little in rpm. The reason to do this is to be sure that the nitrous and the fuel gets to the cylinder at the same time (or as close as possible). There is a debate amoung some of the big nitrous guys that part of the problem with a nitrous motor; as far as durability, is the momentary lean condition it is faced with when the system is engaged. Guys with the proper data loggers have seen a/f ratios of 15-18 to 1 for up to .5 seconds after the hit. Over time this is not good for the pistons.

 

To the contrary, at my power level I DON'T have traction problems with a 125 shot off the line. That's why it pulls 1.49's/1.5's in sixty foot. The car hooks up about 75% of the time on N2O and 100% on the motor. I tried a 150 shot a couple of times and THAT didn't hook up. If you are already making in excess of 500 and then shoot 150 of the line you MAY have traction probs. Depends on alot of things including track prep and bottle pressure.

 

Thanks for all the advice

 

Stick to 100 horse and you have to do nothing special, nothing, no tuning just wire it up properly and enjoy it without fear of blowing a motor and 100 horse really makes a difference.
I did a beat mustang for a guy and went from 16 something to 13.9 from one weekend to the next and he used 2nd off the line because of the increased power.
Don't get greedy and you won't have a problem

 

I'll need a bigger shot than a 100 shot to get into 9's. I want to be in the 10's on engine and 9's on spray... I wouldn't add NOS and still run only 10's

 

that's a 20 car length increase u looking for oli.

 

You have got to learn to walk before you can run and from your posts you don't know how to walk yet. Start small and work your way up as you learn more about the stuff. It is user friendly up to 100 horse and by 250 it is dangerous. Sneak up on your requirements.

 

this maybe way too late, as i was reading the archived. I have a 73 that i fabbed a cardboard templet sump that a welding shop braked & welded in. I used 10 an fittings and had installed on the low part of the tank close to the front cross member. then crimped & soldered off the original pickup. this allowed use of the sending unit. complete by taking to a gas tank repair shop for a renewal process. leak proof guarantee. total cost involved approx. less than $300. stainless braid line & fittings about another $250.

 

Here's what worked for me. 406 with 11 to 1 and a big dose. My car is a 1976 so it has the fuel bladder. I couldn't keep the pressure up through the traps so I silver soldiered a line from the top of the tank dedicated for the nitrous. I also used the MSD electronic retard module set to retard 8 degrees when the nitrous kicked on. Ran many a 1/4 mile over the years with never a misshap. I also used 15 and 20 pound bottles. 10 pounders were a nuisance keeping filled. I also ran hospital grade but I doubt if that makes a difference.

 

That was probably me.

Yes, just plan a small square sump on the bottom. My 1980 did not use a rubber bladder so I just drilled some holes in the bottom of the tank and put a small sump down there with 2 holes. One is a feed, the other can be a return (I am using the stock feed line as my return) or it can be a 2nd feed if more fuel is needed.

 

The photo you posted from Summit also looks like it's for a spreadbore carb......

 

Damn.. my old thread is back from the dead

Right now, I'm trying to get the most out of my setup without NOS... I want to make it into the 10.50 - 10.70 range on engine and might add a 150 shot later... I'm not going to use nitrous without being able to get into 9's... If my ET's are in the mid 10's, a 150 shot will get me into 9's.. Right now, I might only run low 10's... Another issue is hood clearance.. I'm planning on going with the Super Victor CNC and the hood clearance won't allow to add the nitrous plate... According to my measurements, I won't even be able to use any type of air filter due to clearance issues.. It'll barely fit...

 

so for shots under 70 horses you dont have to do no tuning? because I dont whant to bother with tuning the car for nitro