HELP initial engine start up
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
HELP initial engine start up
well this is the big week end and i'm too close to the problem to think it through it....only think left to do is hook up exhaust, gas line, drop in distributor
hydrauliuc valve adjustment ...followed Vizards book....line up TDC, go to number 1, tighten until pushrod barely turns,then go on 1/2 turn more, turn 1/4 rotation of crankshaft...followed his order....
QUESTION. does it matter if it was the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke for adjusting the valves and how would i know?
primed oil pump successfully got oil coming out of all rockers how do i know if the distributor is in correctly or 180* out of whack.
i'm too close and excited to think this through and need some one to
point out the obvious....
hydrauliuc valve adjustment ...followed Vizards book....line up TDC, go to number 1, tighten until pushrod barely turns,then go on 1/2 turn more, turn 1/4 rotation of crankshaft...followed his order....
QUESTION. does it matter if it was the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke for adjusting the valves and how would i know?
primed oil pump successfully got oil coming out of all rockers how do i know if the distributor is in correctly or 180* out of whack.
i'm too close and excited to think this through and need some one to
point out the obvious....
Thread Starter
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by big632
Rotate engine til you see #1 intake valve open and as it closes you will be on compression stroke. drop in dist line up rotor with #1 and drop in .Ready to go.
as far as adjusting valves did it matter if had the TDC at the compression stoke as opposed to the exhaust stroke?
thks bob
Safety Car
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From: Youngstown Ohio
If your cam does not have a lot of duration (under 240 deg. @ 0.50") , you can adjust your valves in just 2 steps: 1st- TDC the engine, #1 plug on compression stroke. Now adjust the intake & exhaust valves of #1; intakes of #2, #5, & #7, exhausts of #3, #4, #8. 2nd step- turn engine to BDC (1 turn of the balancer & timing mark lines up again 180 deg. on #6 cyl.). Now you adjust the remaining valves; intake & exh. of #6, intakes of #3, #4, #8, & exhausts of #2, #5, #7.
Thread Starter
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
If your cam does not have a lot of duration (under 240 deg. @ 0.50") , you can adjust your valves in just 2 steps: 1st- TDC the engine, #1 plug on compression stroke. Now adjust the intake & exhaust valves of #1; intakes of #2, #5, & #7, exhausts of #3, #4, #8. 2nd step- turn engine to BDC (1 turn of the balancer & timing mark lines up again 180 deg. on #6 cyl.). Now you adjust the remaining valves; intake & exh. of #6, intakes of #3, #4, #8, & exhausts of #2, #5, #7.
i followed Vizards proceedure and indexed the harmonic balancer every 90*.....the real question i have is what would happen if adjusted the valves on the exhaust stroke vs compression stroke and hjow could i tell? i have about 5-6 threads showing on the studs if that matters.. thks bob
Melting Slicks
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From: Eastern Connecticut
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
the real question i have is what would happen if adjusted the valves on the exhaust stroke vs compression stroke and hjow could i tell?
Last edited by joe73vette; Jan 15, 2005 at 07:07 PM.
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From: Plano TX
Do the valves again just to be sure. Here's a fool proof way:
Rotate crank until the valves do not move around TDC on #1. Look at valves for #6, they will be moving. This is #1 TDC. With dampener at 0 dgr, adjust both valves of #1.
Now turn the crank 90 dgr forward (clockwise when viewed from the front of the car). Do #8, both valves. 90 dgr on the crank again and #4. Just follow the firing order 18436572.
You will end up back at 0 dgr on #1. Now install the distributor pointing at the #1 terminal.
I'm guessing you have an HEI... remove the rotor and turn the crank to 10 dgr BTDC (turn crank 10 dgr COUNTER-CLOCKWISE). Adjust distributor so the teeth on the pole piece (attached to the main distributor shaft) and the reluctor wheel (non-moving ring attached to housing) line up.
Now the ignition is ready to go and the timing is set close enough to where it will fire and run well for break-in. No nasty back fires through the carb.
Rotate crank until the valves do not move around TDC on #1. Look at valves for #6, they will be moving. This is #1 TDC. With dampener at 0 dgr, adjust both valves of #1.
Now turn the crank 90 dgr forward (clockwise when viewed from the front of the car). Do #8, both valves. 90 dgr on the crank again and #4. Just follow the firing order 18436572.
You will end up back at 0 dgr on #1. Now install the distributor pointing at the #1 terminal.
I'm guessing you have an HEI... remove the rotor and turn the crank to 10 dgr BTDC (turn crank 10 dgr COUNTER-CLOCKWISE). Adjust distributor so the teeth on the pole piece (attached to the main distributor shaft) and the reluctor wheel (non-moving ring attached to housing) line up.
Now the ignition is ready to go and the timing is set close enough to where it will fire and run well for break-in. No nasty back fires through the carb.
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From: Youngstown Ohio
The balancer mark lines up @ TDC, & again @ BDC, 360 deg. of BALANCER rotation, but only 180 deg. of CRANKSHAFT rotation- (the rotor points 180 deg. away on the #6 plug). If you adusted each valve on the base circle of the cam, regardless of order, you would be OK. (valves @ TDC, no lift)...but if you're not sure, you should start again from scratch.
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Melting Slicks
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From: pr, frederick md.
Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
The balancer mark lines up @ TDC, & again @ BDC, 360 deg. of BALANCER rotation, but only 180 deg. of CRANKSHAFT rotation- (the rotor points 180 deg. away on the #6 plug). If you adusted each valve on the base circle of the cam, regardless of order, you would be OK. (valves @ TDC, no lift)...but if you're not sure, you should start again from scratch.
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
thks guys.....i did it again.....i figured what the heck it takes about 15 minutes... and i was spending more time trying to go through the mechanics in my ahead....so i followed the 4 cycles through watching the valves and when i hit tdc after the intake cycle i stasrted the process agian according to vizards book.... i appreciate all the help....some times you are too close and have too much crap onthe mind to see the whole picture and think it through...., since i was gone i have the exhaust installed and primed the oil pump for a third time....
thks again
thks again
Thread Starter
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
ok its all adjusted and distributor is in....i'm still haveing a brain fart on the Harmonic balancer rotation being half of the crankshaft rotation , "The balancer mark lines up @ TDC, & again @ BDC, 360 deg. of BALANCER rotation, but only 180 deg. of CRANKSHAFT rotation" ... in my mind (weak as it is) i see the harmonic balancer beng attached to the crank shaft ....so it seems like they would rotate together.... i did see that two rotations of the harmonic balancer brought me back to the same spot, so i'm not doubting the facts just can't visualize it . thks bob
edit : did you mean 1 rotation of harmonic balancer is 360* of crankshaft rotation but 180* of cam shaft rotation? and thats why i rotate the harmonic balancer twice to get to the same spot.
edit : did you mean 1 rotation of harmonic balancer is 360* of crankshaft rotation but 180* of cam shaft rotation? and thats why i rotate the harmonic balancer twice to get to the same spot.
Last edited by bobs77vet; Jan 16, 2005 at 01:43 AM.
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Crank and harmonic balancer will rotate twice for every 1 camshaft rotation. THe 0 degree mark on the balancer will tell you TDC for #1 cylinder and the next time it comes around it will be #6. Easy way to tell if you are on #1 compression stroke is to watch #6 rockers/lifters, they will be in overlap, meaning exhaust will be closing and intake opening when they are equal you will be at TDC on #1, adjust number one and turn 90 degrees and adjust next one in firing order.
You can always check the corresponding cylinder to see when it is in overlap #1 you look at 6, #8 you look at 5 and so on.
1843
6572
Also the rotor should be pointing towards the rad for #1 compression stroke not toward the firewall
You can always check the corresponding cylinder to see when it is in overlap #1 you look at 6, #8 you look at 5 and so on.
1843
6572
Also the rotor should be pointing towards the rad for #1 compression stroke not toward the firewall
Thread Starter
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
thks motorhead, thats the realization i came up with....i think i originally adjusted my valves on the TDC of the compression stroke because when i went back to double check them they were loose on the compression stroke like joe73vett pointed out....thats what got me thinking i was missing something
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From: Minnesota
Bob, that's why they call it a 4 stroke. Your mind is working along the lines of a weed eater or snowmobile engine right now. 
I'm sure the adrenaline has to be pumping now that you are this close. After all the work you've done I don't think I could sleep right now until I hear that thing bark. You'll have to put up some audio once she's going. John. 
Your mind is working along the lines of a weed eater or snowmobile engine right now. I'm sure the adrenaline has to be pumping now that you are this close. After all the work you've done I don't think I could sleep right now until I hear that thing bark. You'll have to put up some audio once she's going. John.
Last edited by jdmick; Jan 16, 2005 at 11:41 AM.
