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Pke Help!!!!!!

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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 01:10 PM
  #21  
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Just an idea here. Find somebody that has a working fob. Try the reprogram thing with it and if it works then, throw away the "Frankenstine Fob" and order one or two new ones from gmpartsdirect.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 01:32 PM
  #22  
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Well, mine's got some other issues, but over last few years, I have dealt with these PKE issues several times.
As for the Fob, the first replacement that I bought new from the dealer was bad, tried a second one from them after struggling for a week and it worked perfectly.
Also, when programming the receiver, make sure the AC and the RADIO are OFF. This seemed to make a big difference.
And last, I had to go through the Trip ODO, Trip ODO, Fuel Info several times before I had it right. When you hold down the Fuel Info, hold it for a while for that light to come on. It seems like it's not working and then you got it. Turn the key back to off, but not so far that the light goes out, and then run over to where you set the Fob and bring it over. I got pretty good at this, but only with frustrating practice!
Of course, now it looks like the Receiver's bad, so here we go again!
Good Luck!!!
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 04:03 PM
  #23  
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Vetter31, It's the principle of it. I HAVE to figure out why it is not working. Anyway what is so frankenstien about the back and guts of one remote with a new button cover?
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 11:59 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 03blackburb
Redeasysport, Here are the steps I followed, they are the ones listed in the manual:
1. Place transmitter and any optional transmitter 10 feet or more away from the car.

2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position.

3. Push the TRIP/ODO button on the DIC twice.

4. Within 5 Seconds, push and hold the FUEL/INFO button on the DIC until the PKE light on the DIC comes on and stays on.
(My PKE light does stay on.)

5. Turn the ignition to the OFF position, but leave the key in the ignition. The PKE light will come on and begin flashing.
(My PKE light flashes)

6. Bring one transmitter into range. When the system recognizes the transmitter, the PKE light will stay on.
(MY PKE light never stops flashing)
Having reviewed all the information, it appears that the PKE receiver in the car is at least on the surface performing normal. Its going into the programming mode as what appears to be correct.

I agree with VETTER31 and try another remote FOB unit. This would be the simplest and easiest way to determine what the problem is. I mean your not at this point going to dig in to the dash to troubleshoot or yank out the receiver with out knowing for sure that a problem exists.

If the PKE receiver does not recognize another FOB then you probably have a bad receiver. Do the simple and most logical things first.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 12:17 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the responses but the receiver in the car is/was working fine. It is just the FOB that went south.
The main problem with the FOB is that it does not rattle. So with that said, I need someway to trouble shoot the FOB.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 12:19 PM
  #26  
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Easiest fix in the world for the PKE
1. Remove battery from fob
2. Put fob in drawer
3. Use key to open door to car

I hate PKE
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 02:51 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 03blackburb
Thanks for the responses but the receiver in the car is/was working fine. It is just the FOB that went south.
The main problem with the FOB is that it does not rattle. So with that said, I need someway to trouble shoot the FOB.
FOBs that were intermittent or did not work at all have been repaired by re-soldering the printed board. Never heard of anyone replacing parts. If it doesn’t rattle, that seems like a mechanical problem which a close visual examination would reveal a clue for the repair.

Last edited by pcolt94; Apr 3, 2008 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 08:56 AM
  #28  
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Merely trying to get you to come up with some 'knowns" here. By correctly programming and using another working fob you find out if the car's system is working. If it is then the "known" is that the fob isn't working like it should. That could happen with a new one, an old one, or one that is made from 10 old ones. If that be the case, throw the thing away and get a new one. The GM part number is 88960923 for the coupe. Cost $103 and change and shipping. This is the same place the ebay guys get them and make about $50 each on them.

Last edited by vetter31; Apr 3, 2008 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Added part #
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 09:58 AM
  #29  
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Update. I bought a new FOB and it works fine. I took the battery out of the new FOB and put it in the old one. VIOLA it works. Apparently there is a very small margin on the battery voltage to have the FOB work. According to my meter the old battery tested out a 2.9 volts and the new battery at 3.3 volts.
So now I have 2 working FOBs.
Thanks .
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 12:29 PM
  #30  
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Vetter31, Tell me where can I get a new FOB for $103. and change? Thanks for the info.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 12:52 PM
  #31  
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Try gmpartsdirect or just keep an eye on ebay. The new one I picked up was a second change offer for my bid of 105 plus 4 bucks for shipping.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 02:18 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 03blackburb
Update. I bought a new FOB and it works fine. I took the battery out of the new FOB and put it in the old one. VIOLA it works. Apparently there is a very small margin on the battery voltage to have the FOB work. According to my meter the old battery tested out a 2.9 volts and the new battery at 3.3 volts.
So now I have 2 working FOBs.
Thanks .
Lucky you!!!

Mine still isnt working, but I am thinking it is the recieving unit, as the pke does not come up on my cluster panel, so may be awhile before I get it all figured out!

Glad you got yours working though!
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 02:46 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 03blackburb
Update. I bought a new FOB and it works fine. I took the battery out of the new FOB and put it in the old one. VIOLA it works. Apparently there is a very small margin on the battery voltage to have the FOB work. According to my meter the old battery tested out a 2.9 volts and the new battery at 3.3 volts.
So now I have 2 working FOBs.
Thanks .
Congradulations

Welcome to my world of electronics. Few years ago a few volts would not mean a thing. Today with solid state electronics and devices that are working at 3 volt levels, sometimes close is not good enough, on target is what it takes. You tested the battery out of the unit under a no load no condition. Might have even tested less under operating conditions. Sometimes 4.8 volts will not run some logic circuits properly and at least 5 volts is required.

Having said that, I just put batteries in my jeeps FOB that was working poorly and voltage was close to.

Last edited by pcolt94; Apr 16, 2008 at 07:27 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 04:15 PM
  #34  
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Just who are these pinheaded idiots who design day to day devices that have to work consistantly well, and part of the design includes the need for voltage that is so precise it is virtually impossible to troubleshoot them effectively.
These guys are IDIOTS with no REAL WORLD experience.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:35 AM
  #35  
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Another thing I noticed is that the new FOB I bought and the old one with a new battery still do not make a rattling sound, BUT they both work.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 07:32 AM
  #36  
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Is the car being parted out a Vert? Or do you have a Vert and the the other one a coupe. The FOBs are different for Verts. Just a thought.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 10:31 AM
  #37  
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Mike,

The FOB for a vert only has 1 button whereas a coupe has 2. They are NOT interchangable in any way.
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 01:29 PM
  #38  
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Go up to gmpartsdirect.com a for the remote fob. You will have to type in the part number to find it. You can get the part number from off the sellers at ebay. I think they may have up a little by now. I just don't have the aprt number handy.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 10:27 PM
  #39  
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I have just purchased a 1995 LT 1 . The dealer did not have the fob so I purchased one. Bought a new one and read the posts about the battery dead issue. I can not get the PKE light to go "solid' during the programing sequence once I have turned the ignition switch off and go to retrieve the fob which is about 40 feet away. The PKE light in in dic continue to flash but here is the crazy thing, once the light eventually stops flashing (about 3-4 minutes) the horn sounds and the doors lock. I can not for the love of all that is decent and pure get pke to program or accept the program sequence. Can anyone help a brother out.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 12:21 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by brinikprice
I have just purchased a 1995 LT 1 . The dealer did not have the fob so I purchased one. Bought a new one and read the posts about the battery dead issue. I can not get the PKE light to go "solid' during the programing sequence once I have turned the ignition switch off and go to retrieve the fob which is about 40 feet away. The PKE light in in dic continue to flash but here is the crazy thing, once the light eventually stops flashing (about 3-4 minutes) the horn sounds and the doors lock. I can not for the love of all that is decent and pure get pke to program or accept the program sequence. Can anyone help a brother out.
I have the trouble shooting guide for 95, PKE.

If your familiar with pulling codes this shud narrow your problem down.

If interested my e-mail is lsylvestri@sbcglobal.net

Last edited by Red Dwarf; Oct 1, 2008 at 12:22 PM. Reason: add info
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