I drove my Ruby to work today, so to punish me for leaving her out in the snow my right front speaker goes up. It will snap crackle pop and cut in and out.
Can I swap the right and left front speaker assy to try to isolate the problem? IE are both front speaker assy the same electronically?

 

I'm not sure about the speaker boxes in front, but the rear are handed, and the parts are mounted to match the shape of the box. But the wiring can be connected if you want to bother. In any case, sounds like you puked an amp. I'd just take the bad one out and ship it to Dr. Don.

 

Thanks;
Dr. Don fixed the CD player 5 years ago. That still works great.

 

No they are left and rights unlees you choose to remove them from the housings. Your problem is you lost the independent speaker amplifier most likely on that side. I beleive Dr Don repairs those as well. It will continue to Pop hiss and Squal until you replace it.

 

What does Doctor Don charge to repair a CD player.....mine is broken?

 

Is it me or does anyone else think the Bose systems aren't very good.

 

You can swap left and right to isolate the problem. You can probably swap the rears also for test purposes. The only major difference in the amplifiers between front and rear is the equalization.

Most of the amps are easy to fix because they mainly have bad electrolytic capacitors. If you have electronic experience and want to make a go of it I can give you some real good information and links. Factory car stereo in Orlando repairs the Bose systems also.

For me the Bose works pretty well for a car system. The one benefit to the older electronics and technology is they can be repaired almost all the time. The basic components can be replaced. The new stuff is more difficult to fix with things packed in more with the surface mount technology. Most of that stuff will be just thrown out in the future. As you know the things today are replaced and not repaired that much anymore (having been in the business).

But the other thing is that I like the car as original as it was made. A properly working Bose is a pretty good sound system for it's time.

 

Hense the name Bloze. No they suck. Was fine in 1990. But now???

 

http://www.doctordons.com/

 

100% true statement.

 

Most of the amps are easy to fix because they mainly have bad electrolytic capacitors. If you have electronic experience and want to make a go of it I can give you some real good information and links.

Will you guide us in the right direction to repair the system?
My system doesn't do anything when turned on. The clock stays at 1:00. The antena doesn't raise. I checked the fuse and it's ok. Disconnected the battery for a few minetes. Where do I go now.

 

Thanks

 

Glad to help

 

Do not want to take this thread off in a different direction. But let me just say that your problems are not speaker board amplifier problems.

Not much information to go on here but from what you indicated, sounds like the head in the dash might be a problem. At least that’s what my starting point and best guess would be. I would send the head out for a check out or repair.

Check all power, fuses, wiring, connectors and such before sending out. There are two connectors in rear of radio head.

 

I am pretty happy with the system, though I am certainly not an audiophile. I am using a cassette adapter to use my MP3 player on the stereo and it does all I'll want or need.

I too like the original look. Heck, even the factory wheels are growing on me...

 

I think the system is pretty nice. You have to compare it to other systems 20-30 years back. And back then they were top end.

Furthermore, you can´t say its a bad system when it fails after 20 years of use. My system is 22 years old now and if it ever fails I will replace the capacitors myself and go on.

Go find an electronic device from todays era that works longer than 3-5 years, good luck.

 

My 1995 is real good, sound and FM reception. My 1990 sounded good but didn't receive a station unless you were sitting on top of the transmitter antenna. The antenna ground plane modification helped but still wasn't real good, maybe about 75% efficient.

 

if it just doesn't play because it's dirty, compressed air blown in the opening works a lot of the time

 

Thanks for the help.
I wanted to make sure the Right amp was toast and not something in the head unit. I have not taken the amp out to verify anything yet. How much of a pain is that?
I am the inspector in an SMT shop. I can replace any parts that are on the board. Please: Give Away!

 

Rears come out easy, just a bunch of screws. The fronts are not hard, just more of a pain. You have got to remove some of the around the door molding to get to the speaker box. It's kind of under the carpet protection, then unscrew it.

FYI - I just bought and received it today a capacitance tester. Got it on EBay, lots to chose from. It checks up to 200 ufd for $16.00 (thanks to modern technology and china). I wanted something cheep and that is a good range just to test mostly everything you need to. The capacitors that go bad just don’t change value, they go down to ZIP - NAGA almost no capacitance, basically the pf range.

What's so great is capacitance testers use to be hundreds or thousands of dollars like the one I used at work. But I don’t need all those extra features at home, I just want to know if the darn thing is bad.

Most of the amps I have fixed, the 1 and 10 ufd go bad and value goes to pf range. I have replaced the 47 ufd but were not bad. And have never had 470 go bad.

Here a link with all the info:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-and-more.html

I really use the tester to see if something is bad and not so much as to see if the value is correct. Most are usually within 10% or less anyway and that means nothing as far as electrolytic performance goes.