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I can not get voltage to the compressor.....I bypassed the pressure switch and checked the fuses and checked out all the connectors. What else should I be looking at ?
Have you tried to get at the AC Clutch relay? I don't have the FSM here but I would imagine that a wire goes from the relay to the clutch. Check the wire continuity
Is the relay getting power at all? I would test probe the relay and make sure it gets good power and ground and that the wire runs without a break all the way to the plug that the clutch plugs into
I can't find my diagram with the relay location......anyone know where the AC clutch relay is ?
right rear of engine compartment on inner fender. it has 4 wires 2 brown--1 green and 1 green/white--It will be with other relays depending on options manual/auto trans--manual/auto climate control.
both brown wires batt. voltage when ign. is on
green/white wire is grounded by PCM when it sees AC "request"
green wire powers AC clutch when relay is energized and working
right rear of engine compartment on inner fender. it has 4 wires 2 brown--1 green and 1 green/white--It will be with other relays depending on options manual/auto trans--manual/auto climate control.
both brown wires batt. voltage when ign. is on
green/white wire is grounded by PCM when it sees AC "request"
green wire powers AC clutch when relay is energized and working
Don’t know if you have the manual or automatic (C68) system but the compressor does not have constant voltage on it. The voltage is applied to it when the compressor clutch relay is closed.
The coil of the relay is energized by the PCM in both systems. The cycling switch connects to the PCM for the signal to turn compressor on and off.
Of course some of the other electronics are different between the manual and the automatic systems.
If there is 12 volts on the clutch, it's probably bad. It can be replaced but proper spacing washers are critical. Make sure compressor is good before it's replaced.
Don’t know if you have the manual or automatic (C68) system but the compressor does not have constant voltage on it. The voltage is applied to it when the compressor clutch relay is closed.
The coil of the relay is energized by the PCM in both systems. The cycling switch connects to the PCM for the signal to turn compressor on and off.
Of course some of the other electronics are different between the manual and the automatic systems.
If there is 12 volts on the clutch, it's probably bad. It can be replaced but proper spacing washers are critical. Make sure compressor is good before it's replaced.
climate control system
I bypassed pressure switch. I did notice the voltage coming and going (according to the test light) even with the switch plugged up. Thats when I knew it was going to be a more expensive fix. If there are any more checks feel free to add but Im looking for a compressor with clutch. I just don't want to buy the clutch not being sure if the compressor is good or not.
Last edited by pitchadude; Jun 7, 2011 at 07:49 AM.
Reason: more info
I guess test lights have their place (somewhere), but I always have used a meter having been in electronics all my life. Get a DVM and learn how to use it so you can know what's going on. A test light might not see partial voltage.
You can buy a digital for $5 today that will be just fine for checking for voltage. The bigger and better ones have bigger displays, longer leads, more durable and more scales but accuracy not a big factor for just checking for 12 volts when troubleshooting (for your needs).
If you can hand turn the compressor, then you can try the next step.
I would unplug the compressor and put battery voltage to it directly to see if the clutch will engage. This would eliminate all doubt if the clutch is good or bad. Run the engine once set up and see if the compressor will turn.
If the clutch does nothing, I don’t know if there is a way to temporally manually engage it and testing to see if the pipes get cold. Be careful if you decide to jam something in there.
I guess test lights have their place (somewhere), but I always have used a meter having been in electronics all my life. Get a DVM and learn how to use it so you can know what's going on. A test light might not see partial voltage.
You can buy a digital for $5 today that will be just fine for checking for voltage. The bigger and better ones have bigger displays, longer leads, more durable and more scales but accuracy not a big factor for just checking for 12 volts when troubleshooting (for your needs).
If you can hand turn the compressor, then you can try the next step.
I would unplug the compressor and put battery voltage to it directly to see if the clutch will engage. This would eliminate all doubt if the clutch is good or bad. Run the engine once set up and see if the compressor will turn.
If the clutch does nothing, I don’t know if there is a way to temporally manually engage it and testing to see if the pipes get cold. Be careful if you decide to jam something in there.
Of course I have a multi-meter but the problem was having nothing at all ...hence a handy dandy test light. Already hotted the clutch direct with nothing as a result. I condemned it and are moving on. I would like to lock that clutch up somehow nut that seems too dangerous.