Here is the situation: 1987 coup. Several years ago, I got fed up with the vats system and ordered a bypass. After installing it, the problem was solved. That is, until yesterday. I ran to the store and when ready to leave, it would not start. I left it there for a few hours, and when I returned, with my other key, it started right up. After I got it home, and in my garage, I tried again. It started right up, after turning it off and retrying it. That lasted for about three tries. Then, on the fourth try, the same thing, dead. The dash display is bright, and the battery, to my knowledge, (4 years old) is fine. My original key will no longer start the vehicle. I have to use my spare key. It started right up this morning, but after I turned it off, it would not restart. I tried again a couple of hours later, and no start, once again. Once, after I started it, with my spare key, I turned it off, and tried again, with my old key. It did not start. Then I tried it with my spare key and it would not start for several hours. Any suggestions gentlemen? I hope I have included all pertinent information for you to help me. By the way. I am an old member, but have not been active on the forum for several years. When I tried to log on, I could not remember my username or password. It was easier to re register. I appreciate any help you can give me.

 

first, forget vats for a while, if it was bypassed. is it the "no crank, no click" symptom, from about page 8a 30-4 of fsm?
OR...does the starter solenoid click when key is turned to start mode?

if no click, the solenoid itself is not being energized. maybe the purple wire that connects to it is dead -for many reasons. may not be related, but the purple comes directly from auto neutral switch or manual clutch switch at the pedal. you can try jiggling the clutch or shifter while turning to START.

need to listen carefully and provide some more data.

joe

 

Joe, It does nothing, when the ignition it turned. No click, no noise.

 

I had the same issue with my 1990 Vert. After 4 years of several fixes to my 1990 Vert for No-Start Issues, I finally got it solved. So Far, So Good! I haven't had any issues since adding this Painless 25 Amp Remote Starter Relay. I installed it on the Firewall on the Driver's Side. We cut the Large Purple Wire in the Wiring Harness and spliced the Large Purple Wire from the Remote Relay onto the side that goes to the Starter and the Small Purple wire from the Relay that goes to the Battery. Then we spliced the Red wire from the Relay to the Battery Wire at the Alternator and the Black Ground Wire from the Relay onto a nut near the Intake Manifold.

 

Your ignition key switch my be wearing out.

 

did I overlook checking fuses? did you?
did I ask for more data?

auto or manual? jiggle the clutch and shifter, anything to make a reaction that might lead to a clue. at least, what I'd do. only way anyone ever fixes it is by exploring, checking, answering the questions.

no one reading this knows the answer.

 

Would it be a fuse if it sometimes starts? It is an auto. I will give the jiggle a try after I get home tonight. Thanks to all,
for your help. I will let you know what I find out.

 

I thought of that. That would be an easy fix if it is the problem. Thanks for the help.

 

Thanks for the suggestion and the pics. They are indeed worth a thousand words.

 

I am just trying to save you the same frustration that I went through for a few years. I performed every VATS fix there is, replaced the ignition switch, grounded the "Starter Enable" Relay to the Instrument Panel frame, had the starter rebuilt (twice).

Then I met a guy that is a mechanic and knows GM vehicles very well. He told me that it was probably a heat soaked starter (Something that would show itself in GM vehicles through the 70's, 80's & 90's) or the wires are getting getting weak with age and are not able to carry the full current to the starter. I am told that this is an "Old School" fix.

I know that I haven't had a problem since and it was a pretty cheap fix (Under $30) and only took a few minutes to install. I got mine from Summit Racing. It is called a Painless Wiring 30202 - Painless Performance Hot Shot Relays. The decription for it is as follows:

Painless Performance Hot Shot relays are designed to overcome starting problems due to an overheated GM style starter or worn out electrical system. They work by boosting amperage to the starter solenoid and are easy to install.

 

not a fuse if it starts sometimes! no, of course not, Bill. I got lost in a "no crank no click" post.
yours is intermittent start. when it doesn't start, it is no crank, no click.

the jiggling is just a simple thing to do, in case the neutral/clutch switch is out of adjustment, intermittent. the real test is to verify that 12v is at the purple terminal on starter solenoid when key is in start.

if you have 12v, the solenoid is suspect, overheated, whatever.

from there, you work back to the ign switch, per fsm, if you have one.

joe

 

Thanks Joe. I do have a FSM. I will check it out. Thanks to all for your suggestions and help.

 

I had a similar problem years ago with my 86 when hot ,intermittant no click no crank.Installed a Delco rebuilt starter still happened. Bought a late model gear reduction starter(POWERMASTER)has not failed since.May not be your problem but is possible.

 

Joe, I tried this morning to start the darned thing. I did however, notice a single, definite click when I turned the ignition. Any idea?

 

the riddle is solved! next case!

questions: is the click form under the dash panel, or maybe glove box? not sure where your start relay is, maybe on the firewall.

if it is more from under the pass side, near the starter, that's the click you are supposed to hear when 7-12v is applied to the starter solenoid, from the solenoid coil pulling in.

what do lights on dash, etc do when key is turned?

the question is the voltage that is at that point. if you can verfy that it is 12v "or so" the problem is NOT relay-neutral switch-vats, etc.
you will have to check that at some point so I'd do it now, with car supported, of course, secured.
has to be in START mode don't forget, also park.

first guess is lack of batt voltage, amperage to be exact, but if so the lights would dim.
solenoid/starter is next.

check it and I or someone will have some ideas.

 

It appears to be from under the dash panel, but I may be mistaken. It does not seem to be from the glove box area.

 

The dash lights are bright and do nothing.

 

ok. that is start relay most likely, relay is maybe like my 91, under /behind dash. did you follow Calderone's problems? you should look at his thread.

it is not the solenoid click so no voltage to the solenoid terminal MAYBE.

per fsm only one way to know. has to be checked with meter.

neutral switch is a good possibiity. I have posted on several identical thrd and get lost, not sure if you have tried jiggling the shifter.

jiggle the shifter back and forth in neutral while key is in start.

follow fsm and it will lead you to the solution, best advice I have. the first thing it says is to check purple wire at solenoid.

 

I have checked Ecklers, Corvette Central etc. None have anything like a starter enabler relay or starter relay. I don't even know what the darn thing looks like to take it to the auto parts store and find a replacement. I have checked my fsm, with no luck. Any suggestions?

 

Bill, how did you conclude that it was the relay? your 87 is same as Calderone's. look at his threads. the fsm has the fault tree.

if you have not followed the sequence of checks to verify the solenoid voltage, and neutral switch, you are depending on blind luck. you will spend an hour of aggravation just getting to the relay and replacing it, and it may not be the problem.

I thought I said that IF you hear the relay, that is normal. it is most likely not the problem.

if you were desperate, you should follow the suggestions already posted; jiggle the shifter, in case the purple wire is shorting -it happens, and GM issued a service bulletin about it. or more likely it is out of adjustment, IF it is the problem.

there are no simple solutions on the forums, because no one knows, except how to check potentials.
what I am suggesting is what I have done many times over a lifetime.
joe