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1990 Convertible

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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #61  
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Yep, it's stuck. At this point I will probably pull the L98 out. I have an L31 long block out of my 1997 K1500 that has a spun bearing. I will get the machine work done and rebuild it. I plan on using the original aluminum heads and TPI. Just another lesson in life, I suppose. Don't let shiny things blind you to the reality of what's underneath.

Fortunately, I do love the car already.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #62  
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Did you get the pan down yet? You might be in for less than you think. The real question is if you have a seized bearing, or if the engine inhaled a valve (as in timing chain broke). Get the engine out and have a look....if everything else mic's out well, you may be able to get it back on the road with minimal expense.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 01:25 PM
  #63  
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I hadn't thought about the valve. Will the pan come off without lifting the motor? I was looking at it last night with the car on stands and it doesn't look like it will.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Tiger05
I hadn't thought about the valve. Will the pan come off without lifting the motor? I was looking at it last night with the car on stands and it doesn't look like it will.
Yes. You'll need to remove the starter first, but it will come down. The only issue you MIGHT run into is the crank might need to be turned a bit so the pan will clear the front crank journal depending on the crank's position.....and in your case, that's a dealbreaker. You'll have to lift the engine if that's the case.

What you might try is pulling the heads first. You'll know right then if you have an ingested valve, and the extent of the damage. If no cylinder wall or piston crown damage, you MIGHT be able to repair the head/valve, repair the timing chain, and get it on the road without removing the engine.

Time for a little exploratory surgery.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #65  
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My opinion is that by the time you go to all the trouble of pulling things, you could have had the engine out, which is about a 95% certainty where you are going to end up anyway. Drop the exhaust, drop the trans and disconnect the wireing. There's no need to pull the hood or the radiator box, the engine will come out right over the tire. Oh, and after you have everything disconnected, pull the wiper motor. It's very easy to break it by hitting it with the engine going in or out, and that's $150 you don't need to spend.
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