Winter storage
#1
Winter storage
Hi all.
I will be storing my 96 for the first time. I live in upstate NY. LONG COLD WINTERS. I have a place to store with crushed stone floor (pole barn). I have a cover.
Next year I have a garage lined up for storage.
What's the proper protocol for long term storage.
Thanks!
Ed
I will be storing my 96 for the first time. I live in upstate NY. LONG COLD WINTERS. I have a place to store with crushed stone floor (pole barn). I have a cover.
Next year I have a garage lined up for storage.
What's the proper protocol for long term storage.
Thanks!
Ed
#3
Zen Vet Master Level VII
As our cars age there is nothing (nothing) worse than lack of exercise.
#5
Burning Brakes
Make sure you put the tarp down as Whaleman suggests the moisture coming up will create surface rust on surfaces and could create issues with corrosion on electrical connections including grounding. Also make sure the cover you are using breathes to keep dust off and no moisture trapped between the cover and the paint. Wrecks havoc on the paint during freeze and thaw cycles when not stored in a heated garage (cost me a paint job on a 1968 MB).
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2012
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Air up the tires to ~40psi .
#7
Drifting
Yeah, I'll agree withe TGH. Nothing special. You probably want to consider waiting for a nice day with clear roads and drive it around the block allowing the heat and AC to work through the cycles. Open/close all doors window, push all the buttons, move electric seats around... this is the best PM of all.
As our cars age there is nothing (nothing) worse than lack of exercise.
As our cars age there is nothing (nothing) worse than lack of exercise.
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: South-central Missouri
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All the suggestions above are good. I might add that I found a need for rodent (mice) deterrent necessary to keep the buggers at bay. (Mice have "parked" more than ONE vehicle around here!! Forgetting to use the poison has usually been a regrettable mistake!! )
A trip to my farm supply store for a bucket of TOMCAT rodent bait is well worth the cost and the trouble to find it.
A trip to my farm supply store for a bucket of TOMCAT rodent bait is well worth the cost and the trouble to find it.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 10-13-2018 at 12:08 PM.
#9
Intermediate
Find the Marine Sta-bil if at all possible. Much better for long term storage especially with ethanol fuels. Good luck with your storage, I am in Niagara County and this is my first winter of Corvette storage!
#10
I only use non ethanol gas. I didn’t realize taking the battery out was such a hassle. What’s my second option ( I don’t have access to power for a trickle charge. I will next year).
I bought the tarp. Put in the sta-bil. Pumped the tires to 40 psi. Got the tomcat mouse whackers. Changed the oil.
Just need to figure out the battery detail.
Thanks again fellas!!
#11
Race Director
Mice can cause thousands of dollars of damage in a very short period of time. In fact, I would say mice are the single greatest risk to a car in storage.
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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nothing. do you think new car dealers do anything to cars when they sit for a few months? the only thing to do is rodent control. its just a car not a priceless art
#13
Intermediate
Is there a window handy? Harbor Fright sells small solar panels that plug into the lighter and trickle charge the battery. We used one for years for my dad's car after he passed. We were fighting dead battery frequently until we got the solar charger. It was the best $20 I spent in a long time!
#14
Le Mans Master
If we're only talking 6 months, there is not a ton that needs to be done.
As for rodents that is definitely a concern! I've fought that battle in the past when I keep mine in my driveway under a cover over winter and they caused quite a bit of damage! Hate those bastards!
Last edited by bac22; 10-23-2018 at 05:13 AM.
#15
Safety Car
New cars are just that. New cars. They haven't been subjected to 30 years of use yet. New cars have new parts, tires, paint, interior, drive trains and new wiring. All the things that are going to age and deteriorate quickly if not preserved well in an older car. By doing "nothing" to a car roughly 30 years old for its preservation is a sure way of insuring problems when you take it out of storage.
#16
Team Owner
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New cars are just that. New cars. They haven't been subjected to 30 years of use yet. New cars have new parts, tires, paint, interior, drive trains and new wiring. All the things that are going to age and deteriorate quickly if not preserved well in an older car. By doing "nothing" to a car roughly 30 years old for its preservation is a sure way of insuring problems when you take it out of storage.
I do nothing but unhook my battery in my restored 66SS 396 Chevelle and I store it in a unheated grage that sees below freezing temps. With no Ill effects in 3-4 months winter storage. My dad does the same thing with his three 67 Corvettes only his garage never gets below 40. No I’ll effects for him. They are just cars
#17
Team Owner
Fill up as late as possible, dump Sta-Bil, Seafoam or whatever is your choice of fuel stabilizer. Dump a couple packs of in the car. Disconnect and remove the battery. Place in some dark corner of the garage and hook up a battery tender to it.
I am leery of the rodent killer simply because they mice don't instantly die. Supposedly it makes them head towards lighted areas but I have seen a dead mouse in an RV before so....
I am leery of the rodent killer simply because they mice don't instantly die. Supposedly it makes them head towards lighted areas but I have seen a dead mouse in an RV before so....
#18
Le Mans Master
Yup, I made that mistake the first time I realize I had a mouse in the Vette and used rodent killer...the damn thing died in my dash and the smell was so bad in the spring that I had to completely tear the dash out to air it out!
#19
Racer
Also place "Bounce" dryer sheets in, under and all around the car. Do not use a generic brand. I get a box of 240 for just under $10.
Use lots of them. I even put them in the engine compartment, just make sure to remove them before you start your car in the spring. Leave yourself a note in the car.
Use lots of them. I even put them in the engine compartment, just make sure to remove them before you start your car in the spring. Leave yourself a note in the car.
Last edited by JETS C3-C4; 10-24-2018 at 12:49 AM.
#20
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
New cars are just that. New cars. They haven't been subjected to 30 years of use yet. New cars have new parts, tires, paint, interior, drive trains and new wiring. All the things that are going to age and deteriorate quickly if not preserved well in an older car. By doing "nothing" to a car roughly 30 years old for its preservation is a sure way of insuring problems when you take it out of storage.
*Tarps on the floor.
*Over inflate the be-jeezus out of the tires
*Magic potions in the gas tank
*Rodent control
*Ritualistic placement of "Bounce" Dryer sheets.
*Battery rituals.
Of those (and all the gems yet to come)....what are they going to do, to "preserve" an old car....that a new car is immune to??
My 26 year old car gets an oil change and I fill the gas tank (with gas) before putting it away. Same with the boat. And the snowmobiles. And the snow blower...and lawn mower.... Been doing this routine for over 18 years. Where have I failed? Where the the "problems" that I've "insured" (sic)?
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 10-23-2018 at 01:02 AM.