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Does not seem bad ,visibility wise so the only issues are longevity and ease of installation. If that passes it would be good.
I cant speak to longevity, but they have big heat sinks on the back. I suspect theyll last a good while.
Install is easy, r scrsws that hold thr headlight surrou dx on, then 4 more that hold the retainer in. Unplug oldd lights, p.ug in new lights. Reverse process for install. Nof even a half a beer job.
I cant speak to longevity, but they have big heat sinks on the back. I suspect theyll last a good while.
Install is easy, r scrsws that hold thr headlight surrou dx on, then 4 more that hold the retainer in. Unplug oldd lights, p.ug in new lights. Reverse process for install. Nof even a half a beer job.
Did you have to do the Circuit Doctor mod or have the resistor mounted in line like I did? Sounds like this is a good buy.
I didnt HAVE to. But i chose to do the mod to ground the relay. I could have easily just turned the fogs off for good and not cared.
OK. I was wondering if it was the same as any other LED lights where you need to do either the in line resistor or the CD Mod for full functionality just in case mine don't work out and I have to change it.
OK. I was wondering if it was the same as any other LED lights where you need to do either the in line resistor or the CD Mod for full functionality just in case mine don't work out and I have to change it.
I modified mine by grounding the fog lamp relay under the dash. But yes, just like most LEDs you need to do your mod of choice to get full functionality of high beams and fog lights. Thats the only downside that I can say.
I modified mine by grounding the fog lamp relay under the dash. But yes, just like most LEDs you need to do your mod of choice to get full functionality of high beams and fog lights. Thats the only downside that I can say.
I got the Corvette HID lights that were great but that wasn't as blue as I'd like. Also he seemed to go out of business and I needed a part repaired so I went with the Genssi LEDs. How long they last, hard to say but in case they don't, I might need a backup and wanted to know if I need to keep the resistors I bought or toss them. Thanks.
OK. I was wondering if it was the same as any other LED lights where you need to do either the in line resistor or the CD Mod for full functionality just in case mine don't work out and I have to change it.
NORMALLY: The actuator (coil) portion of the relay that normally controls the fog lights is powered through the fog light switch and is grounded through the high beam filament when the high beam lights are not used. But, when the high beam filament is powered through the high beam switched ON, BOTH sides of the fog light relay's coil are powered from the battery - effectively removing the ground for the fog light relay, causing the fog lights to turn OFF when switching on the HI beams.
Switching the stock headlights for LEDs upsets the normal intended operation of the fog light (relay). In order for the LEDs to work, there needs to be a substantial resistor inserted in series with the actual LED "chip" itself. The effective result is by inserting the LED circuit in place of the stock (bulb), the path to ground required by the fog light relay to work is essentially removed - long as the LEDs remain installed.
So, there are two solutions:
Re-route the fog light relay (coil) wire to another grounding location,
OR, install an additional by-passing (aka LOAD) resistor to simulate the current route of the original headlight filament to ground. (Note: The two stock HI beam filaments are in parallel, circuit-wise. Installing only one LOAD resistor at one headlight provides often provides sufficient path for enough current to flow through the fog light relay coil to activate the relay. You may only need to install ONE headlight LOAD resistor and reduce the current load on the alternator accordingly.)
PROS N CONS:
Providing a separate ground for the fog light relay, by essentially intercepting and diverting the stock path to ground (the HI beam filament) to another ground point, changes the stock operation of the fog lights. Instead of the fog lights turning OFF when the HI beams are ON, the fog lights remain on whenever the dash (fog light) switch is turned ON. Check with local authority to shed some light on the legality of running the high beams AND simultaneously running with the fog lights ON as well.
Instead of routing the fog light relay, Installing the load resistors will not change the stock load on the alternator in any practical way, AND it will preserve the stock operation of the fog lights w/o permanently changing the stock wiring. However, the load resistors essentially reestablishes the stock current load. So, if reducing the load on the alternator (advantageous if using under-drive pulleys) was part of the reason for the LED installation, that advantage is voided.
Last edited by Paul Workman; Mar 6, 2021 at 07:37 AM.
Reason: *meant to say LOAD resistor, not ' LOAD relay'
Thanks, i got jack sheit for christmas so i just bought myself a set of these to feel better. thnx.
Originally Posted by FAUEE
I previously had some of the generic led headlights with like 15 LEDs in the housing. They were better than the stock bulbs, but were clearly just spotlights, they had no beam pattern or cutoff at all. One started being flakey, so I decided it was time to upgrade.
I bought a set of what I assume are blatant ripoffs of a more expensive light from amazon for 90 bucks. Put them in today and what can I say other than WOW. These are great, super bright with a great cutoff. The beam is wide, and casts a good long bit, and the high beams are killer. They installed easily enough, they are a tight fit in the back, but they do fit.
These are what I bought.
2018 New Osram 110W 5x7 Led Headlights 7x6 Led Sealed Beam Headlamp with High Low Beam H6054 6054 Led Headlight for Jeep Wrangler YJ Cherokee XJ H5054 H6054LL 6052 6053(2Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWBRDJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nUUfCb37C97EW
If anyone needs some headlights, these are great, and have me wishing my truck had headlights this good.
NORMALLY: The actuator (coil) portion of the relay that normally controls the fog lights is powered through the fog light switch and is grounded through the high beam filament when the high beam lights are not used. But, when the high beam filament is powered through the high beam switched ON, BOTH sides of the fog light relay's coil are powered from the battery - effectively removing the ground for the fog light relay, causing the fog lights to turn OFF when switching on the HI beams.
Switching the stock headlights for LEDs upsets the normal intended operation of the fog light (relay). In order for the LEDs to work, there needs to be a substantial resistor inserted in series with the actual LED "chip" itself. The effective result is by inserting the LED circuit in place of the stock (bulb), the path to ground required by the fog light relay to work is essentially removed - long as the LEDs remain installed.
So, there are two solutions:
Re-route the fog light relay (coil) wire to another grounding location,
OR, install an additional by-passing (aka LOAD) resistor to simulate the current route of the original headlight filament to ground. (Note: The two stock HI beam filaments are in parallel, circuit-wise. Installing only one LOAD resistor at one headlight provides often provides sufficient path for enough current to flow through the fog light relay coil to activate the relay. You may only need to install ONE headlight LOAD relay and reduce the current load on the alternator accordingly.)
PROS N CONS:
Providing a separate ground for the fog light relay, by essentially intercepting and diverting the stock path to ground (the HI beam filament) to another ground point, changes the stock operation of the fog lights. Instead of the fog lights turning OFF when the HI beams are ON, the fog lights remain on whenever the dash (fog light) switch is turned ON. Check with local authority to shed some light on the legality of running the high beams AND simultaneously running with the fog lights ON as well.
Instead of routing the fog light relay, Installing the load resistors will not change the stock load on the alternator in any practical way, AND it will preserve the stock operation of the fog lights w/o permanently changing the stock wiring. However, the load resistors essentially reestablishes the stock current load. So, if reducing the load on the alternator (advantageous if using under-drive pulleys) was part of the reason for the LED installation, that advantage is voided.
I decided to go with a new ground for the relay coil. Instead of cutting the light green wire I removed it from the relay socket and heat shrinked it in case I want to go back to factory wiring. I then inserted a new wire from another relay socket (black one made sense) and tied it to the ground wire on the after market remote keyless on my '92. I doubt I will ever go back to the factory relay wiring, but at least I can easily.
I decided to go with a new ground for the relay coil. Instead of cutting the light green wire I removed it from the relay socket and heat shrinked it in case I want to go back to factory wiring. I then inserted a new wire from another relay socket (black one made sense) and tied it to the ground wire on the after market remote keyless on my '92. I doubt I will ever go back to the factory relay wiring, but at least I can easily.
Yes, I too would have simply grounded the relay coil - making the fog lights independent of the HI beam circuit completely. But, I was (am) working on an LED conversion article for our club's quarterly magazine, and I needed to experience BOTH options before writing about or recommending one over another. (Options are a good thing!)
Yep...those are a couple good examples of what I see too, after installing my LEDs (Larsen) lights. I live out in the country where there are NO streetlights and with the stock headlights, the black "chip and tar" coating on county roads...at night...and when wet (...did I mention NO white shoulder guide lines?) combine to make it very hard to see well. The LEDs make it waaaay better!!
Yes, I too would have simply grounded the relay coil - making the fog lights independent of the HI beam circuit completely. But, I was (am) working on an LED conversion article for our club's quarterly magazine, and I needed to experience BOTH options before writing about or recommending one over another. (Options are a good thing!)
Side question. IIRC, you cannot simply dump all kinds of light on the road. IOW, I can put a huge light bar on the front or top of the truck and light up the world for 30 miles. If so, that means that I am limited legally as to how much light I can dump on the street. So how is a particular bulb "brighter"? Is it simply because the light spectrum is "easier on my eye" or is there something else I am missing?
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