I still have not had a chance to call beck racing too confirm if they dyno certify the engine for the rated hp.

Also the one advantage of this company over all others right now is location ( 5 miles away ) versus the other engine builders which are on the eastcoast.

One other difference is we have the crappiest gas in America 91 octane which I think is rated on the highside, so most 11 to 1 compression engine will ping and knock to death here, not too mention the 115+ degrees in the summers here in Phoenix.

But I am still comparing as many companies as possible, because it is still $$10,000.00 dollars towards the engine alone. So I do not want too make the wrong choice.

Please keep the info coming on more vendors out there.
Thanks Chad

 

I left ALOT more out, that is just what I had off of the top of my head I forgot the rotating assembly neutral balance with Two flywheels. The Brand new SPEC clutch that was junk after 11K.

I sort of ran out of time during my post. Look, I know of atleast a half a dozen vendors that offer a Killer LT1 shortblock for around $4500 (yes better parts than scat or eagle). Ad a set Of AFR's for $2300 An LT4 intake for $250 Roller rockers for another $300 Bolts, Injectors and such for another $650 (most of the old stuff can be used) I'm only at 8,000. Fuel Pump, Killer ignition, Radiator, Exhaust. Now I'm pushing 10K.

Thats all I'm saying.

I Got ALOT for my $10,800 Hell, I rebuilt the whole car!

 

http://www.speedomotive.com/LT-1%203...T%20MASTER.htm

http://www.revolutionaryperformance....t%20blocks.htm


http://www.revolutionaryperformance....g%20blocks.htm

http://www.dallasexportsales.com/383LT4SB.htm

 

Update: Estimated HP is not 550 hp that is for the 396 package
The 383 package is 500 to 520hp and he is calling me back on the estimated HP to the ground since we all know that is what counts most

I am curious if anyone thinks this motor needs billet splayed caps + 4340 forged crank, because these are extra to the package???

I am nogotating on the price(9999.00) to include the turn key package(58mm throttle body,42lb svo injectors, spark plugs, fuel presure regulator)+ 12 month warranty.

Otherwise the turn key package is 11,899.00

Also they can have the engine dynoed to prove the HP prior to installation.

I am all ears Thanks Chad

 

In anything you do, if price is most important, you will have to give on some quality. If you are willing to pay the freight, the builder can afford to take the time and use parts to give you a premium product. I know of no place in any business that will give you premium service at the lowest price. If you think about it, you are insulting the builder by demanding both. You demand the highest quality parts and service, yet are asking him to cut his profit margin. Why would he do both?. I sounds to me you are quibbling over a couple hundred bucks. I think you may be cutting your own throat.

If you want to make 550hp, no matter what size engine you need premium parts and machinist's skill. I am sure longevity is very important to you. I would not jeapordize that for a couple hundred bucks on a 10,000+ engine. Put in the good stuff on a high performance engine or expect problems. Although an engine looks solid, in fact, parts wander all over the place, particularly at high RPM under max power. Valves wander, lifters bounce on the cam. crankshafts flex, rods stretch, bolts stretch, even the block twists from the torque, etc. That is why premium parts are even made, to stop that kind of monkey business.

I am not trying to be rude, but to me you are far too focussed on price. I think you are about at the place where you have to step up or sit down.

 

forge and splay it, than you can spray it

GET IT DYNOED!!!

Jim

 

Anyone used Golen Engine Service? Take a look at these:

Chevy 383ci / 480hp LT4 Long Block
The 383/480 LT4 is a great daily driven performance engine that runs on 91+ Octane Pump Fuel. It works best with a 2500 rpm + Stall Converter and 3.73 gears.

Peak Horsepower:
480 bhp @ 5300 rpm
Peak Torque:
513 lb/ft @ 4000 rpm

Base Price: $6,499.00

Chevy 396ci / 520hp LT4 Long Block
The 396/520 LT4 is strong running street performance engine that produces a ton of low end torque and great mid range hp. It runs on 91+ Octane Pump Fuel and has good street manners

Peak Horsepower:
520 bhp @ 6200 rpm
Peak Torque:
515 lb/ft @ 4000 rpm

Base Price: $7,499.00

Lifetime warranty, used normally of course.


Click here for complete specs

http://www.golensengineservice.com/

 

redvtt: I agree Golen engine service has a great setup, BUT most of the East coast builder's setup their engines for 11 to 1 compression, which means here on the West coast and our REAL crappy 91 octane means it will ping and knock to death. I know they will set up any engine to any spec but for me I want too know that will run on our crappy gas and not just assume it will.

Overall the East coast builders do have better pricing and Warranty etc... but I am suck on the fact that tuning an LT4 there is very different than here in AZ.
So I think I will suck it up and take the plunge with the Local here, The consenus here is too "forge and splay it, than you can spray it" I really like this idea

 

If you go for this Scat, Eagle setup you will be sorry for not spending an extra $2000.00 for the good stuff.

My opinion based on experience.

 

I will get the forged Crank and Splayed setup just for the extra insurance.Even through it cost $$ and It will take about 8 weeks to build engine.
They said it makes 500 hp with typical loss on the mustang dyno is
20 %, so 400hp to the ground is a good estimate?

I think that is what people on this forum see on the different dyno's? mustang dyno's are higher in the losses?

I am open to opinion's Thanks Chad

 

Heeeeeeeeey ! check out Ohio Crankshaft or Speedomotive ! Or any of the other engine builders ! Just look in the back of the car magazines !

 

I recently shipped a 383 blower motor to a fellow forum member in So. California. Glens engine went well over $10k. One of the reasons was that I started out with a bare F body block and nothing else. Every nut and bolt had to be purchased. For his application, it required custom pistons at around $850, billet steel rods $1000, 4340 Callies crank $1200, CNC ported AFR heads $2700. Just with these parts we are at $5k, then comes machine shop labor, and I haven't included the Pro-Gram Engineering billet steel caps in all 5 locations and the labor to install them.

Your question about needing splayed caps......it depends on what block that the engine builder started with. If he indeed started with a genuine LT4 or a Vette LT1 block, I would just hone the crank line to assure that the crank bearing bores are straight. Then just fit the caps for studs. If he started out with a F body block that is a two bolt main block then I would definitely use the splayed main caps in the center locations. For a street engine making up to 450Hp I would even go with studing and strapping the two bolt blocks. Doing this would easily make for a strong bottom end for this application and save a lot of money.

Another concern is the cam that they will be using to attain this power level. We are using blowers as a power adder and using a very radical cam isn't necessary in Glens engine. Don't get me wrong his engine will be a thumper. You have to take into consideration the cam for a couple reasons. They being A, drivability and street manners, and B how will this cam interact with my power brakes. A large cam with duration numbers in the 240+ regions will have a considerable amount of cam surge with a LTx type shoebox intake. There will be a good amount of reversion in the intake tract and that will make tuning a nightmare for a tuner. An A4 car with a loose convertor can absorb much of this surge but a M6 car will feel every stroke.

A 396 with the right head, intake and cam combo can attain 500+ HP levels. I have driven them another member here in my area has a 396 MTI engine that was dyno'd on their engine dyno at 525 or there abouts. That engine uses the GM847 grind, it sounds great with a B&B exhaust system and has some cam surge in the lower RPMs. I have since installed a set of 410 gears for him which raised his cruise speed RPMs up some to alleviate most of the low RPM surge. He loves the performance now, I have driven this car and I can attest it plain RIPS

 

I agree, living here on the West Coast, these things need to be considered and complicate things. My thought was to call & ask if they can install what I want/need for smog on a long block w/AFR heads to meet requirements & run on 91 crappy gas.

TJWong, isn't a splayed 2 bolt main block stronger than a 4 bolt main?

And, there is a crank case pump that will fix cam surge into the intake & will add 20 (or so) hp. It draws a vacuum on the crankcase. There's 2 types, belt & electric. The belt type draws about 8hp. Would that help this application?
Read that somewhere...

 

Alright here is what I am getting changed it is called the Pro Kill LT4 Everything inaddition too the first page of mods.
New Parts:
Scat 4340 steel nitrited 3.750 stroke large radius crankshaft.
Splayed Main caps.

New Labor:
Main studs+ align bore
Debur+shotpeen #1+#5 main caps
Modify Rear cap for oil flow
Stage 3 debur block
Drill+Tap front oil galleries
Plug deck + Modify cooling system

Cost is 1699.00 added too the 9999.00


I believe that these items are needed for a stronger block overall.

I want too spray it what do you all recommend 150 shot? 200shot? This would only be used at the track every once and in an while

Also the block is an LT1 from the get go. Thanks Chad

 

Good luck with your setup. You're going to love it.

As far as the nitrous, ask the builder for his recommendation.

Jim

 

It's funny you say that because I asked him an he says 200 to 300 shot, but he warned about the addiction of Nitrous

Frank Beck is funny, but when he has a Chevy 555cubic 1000 hp motor next too him that runs on 91 octane and says it's a boat motor one of two, it's quite scary. HAHAHA.

Thanks Hammer

What does everyone recommend for my 6 speed?
I want a new flywheel+ clutch whats a good setup??

 

just to make you drool......watch the vid

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=314394

this car is making pretty much what your build will make at the wheels. look at the specs, they are further down as is drivability report.

stay away from the AFR 220s. they are not worth the hassle for you or anyone else not building a race motor. the 210s are more than adaquit for a 383 or 396 when ported by someone good. Id recommend Advanced Induction or Lloyd Elliot www.eportworks.com.

good luck and have fun

 

Yes, a splayed main cap conversion on a two bolt main block is the way to go for the ultimate strength in a LT1 engine. Also depending on some applications I may add block fill to just the bottom of the freeze plugs as this will add to block regidity. Like I said this all depends on the application, a 450hp street driven 383 won't need block fill or for that matter going throught the process of adding billet splayed caps.

I am not aware of a crankcase vacuum pump to cure a cam surge problem. I agree that they do add some ponies to the final numbers, mainly because the vacuum that is applied to the crankcase actually helps promote better ring seal. Using a vacuum pump setup with a belt driven pump is not meant for street daily drivers.