I know from experience that a dying battery can make life miserable for someone troubleshooting a computerized car.
If the battery has internal problems and is showing a full charge, it can keep you from successfully jump starting your car. I would pull the battery, put in a known good one and see if it starts, all of the troubles you describe can be caused by a failing battery, faulty charging system, bad grounds, or a plethora of other culprits.

I am an optimist and I would go with using a battery from another vehicle. If it starts I would check the alternator for output.
Hopefully the spirits of Georg Ohm, Michael Faraday, Hans Oersted, Andre Ampere, et al are on your side!!
Good luck!!!!!

 

Andy, I have a strong suspicion that the alternator is your main culprit. I had symptoms twice in the past that were practically identical to yours. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the solution is the the lowest $$ one possible

 

bogus I would try a new battery before anything else. This happened to me just a few weeks ago. Luckily it was in my garage. Everthing worked but the motor wouldn't crank. I tried boosting the car from my wifes van and got nothing. Looking for the cheap fix first I went ahead and put in a new battery and she fired like a champ.

 

I had the same problem as Nathan-battery shot, died while driving. 5 yr.
old battery, hmmmmm. Sometimes jumping them with a good battery won't do zip.Maybe you can get one of your friends to let you try their battery-my bets on it.

 

The battery is the obvious first step. Anything over 4 years on a normal automotive battery is rolling the dice, no matter what the warranty says.

I suspect the problem is just the battery. Low voltage to the ECM can cause all sorts of weird problems to occur that you wouldn't think of as "classic" dead battery symptoms. Also, since you said the battery terminals were cruddy, it wouldn't hurt to clean the ground connections on the block while you're at it.

 

Gotta love local dialects huh?

 

If it is the opti (I have a hunch it is), are you going to upgrade to a Delteq system or one of the other upgrades available? If mine goes again (and that's a given), that's probably what I'll do.

 

UPDATE:

I tried to jump the car with a Mighty-Mite battery booster from Shuemacher. It's a great product and works very well when a battery is just a bit weak... however, upon connecting, I have found that the battery voltage is down to about 11.5, static. There is just nothing left in that battery. As stated, it owes me nothing - it would be 5 in July! No complaints... And I think it's an Excel.

I am going to Sams Club this afternoon and get a new battery.

I would not be surprised if the alternator is the start of this, but, I had no reason to believe it was - the charging system shows no codes and no lights have EVER come on. If the alt was not doing it's job, I would have expected different information.

I am going to use the benefits of the LTCC to diagnose the Optispark. The LTCC will throw codes if the Opti isn't doing what it is supposed to... all I need is 50 revs!!!

Thanks for all the suggestions!!!!

 

The bat voltage shouldn't drop to 8 from 12 when cranking. A weak batt could also cause the problem. Hopefully it is...

 

Is there an echo in here?...here?....here?....here?...

I think the battery or alternator are the winners of the popular vote.


Keep us posted bogus.

 

im betting the batt will cure your woes.
i just wanted to add a suggestion when changing the batt out.i dont know if the connection on our 92's are like this but many newer vehicles use a seperate wire to the positive post for running the computer.
slight corrosion between the 2 lugs can cause serious driveability problems with this setup.
peel back the plastic on the positive cable end and if theres 2 ends sandwiched,spread them and sand inbetween them with some sandpaper.
i know this sounds like a no-brainer but i fought a 4700 transtar truck that quit one night,and it had 3 union guys on overtime sitting in the cab,for a half hr.i finally had it towed to the shop and the next day i tracked the problem down to a bad connection inbetween batt cable lugs.DOH!
the starter lug had good connect and the engine whirled fine,just was slow to start and would then die after going a block down the road.
(alls i had to do the night before was loosen and tighten 1 bolt at the batt and she would have ran fine.)
just a thought.
got a fuel pressure tester?napa sells an adapter that is for their kd injector set that works on our lt1s,its a 90 deg fitting which barely fits but does.that adapter and any 0-60 psi gage will make a cheap test gage.
under 40psi (app) and it wont run,but (i think)you may still find wet plugs from dribbling instead of spraying.(i say i think because i havent confirmed this on the lt1 but i have seen it happen with other injection systems)
good luck-bet the batt fixes it.

 

My first thought was the battery - on a trip from Pittsburg to home (8 hours), I was about 2/3rds the way home when my x-girlfriend's car began to buck and run like ***. We took it off the highway, and couldn't start it again. Had to bring my brother down, he jumped the car for a while, and we managed to limp it home. When I had it tested, the battery had 1 1/2 dead cells and I was lucky to get it home. : )

 

I had the same problem with my 92. I pulled the OEM alternator and took it to a local alt. repair shop. After 13 yrs, it was past time to have it gone through. The repair shop confirmed that it was on its last legs. I also stuck a new battery in since the old one had 3 yrs on it. No more problems.....so far.

 

I have a battery and am on my way to install. I will keep everyone posted.

 

Sorry it happened to you, my friend - You're a good guy, you help everyone out. Hope the battery and alt fix it.

-Joe

 

Andy, this is weird...........

I was doing a motor swap at the same time you did Bastet's car; and last nite my alternator died just as I was rolling in from a run.

Let's make a pact: if either one of us gets a flat tire, we call the other guy to warn him immediately!

Good luck on this man!

 

Just no wrecks, deal?

 

Latest:

No go... the motor will not turn over. The new battery is showing 12.4 volts, nominal, and dumps to 8.0 when cranked.

I brought it home and it is on the charger right now. I have heard that new batteries might need a boost before being installed.

I am at the point where I think the starter is doa.

 

[SNIP=bogus]
I agree, the battery is a good start for all of these problems. It's also the cheapest. If by chance, a new battery works, I will then have the alternator tested. If that passes, then I will be satisfied that the battery is the bad guy.[/SNIP]

I wouldn't be too sure about that. Just today I had my alternator tested at AutoZone and it tested "GOOD", yet I had been getting an intermittent low voltage dash warning light for the past few days.

I had them replace it under warranty. All's well in the voltage department now.

Jake

 

That's the thing, Jake, there have been absolutely no codes or lights... Nada.