I gots problems....
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
So, any forum members out there that bogus can ship it to? 
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: San Pedro CA
I have the starter and alternator out. So I can now get them to a place for testing.
At this point, I am still at a loss... but I did find that the battery cables are not all that solid, so I need to replace the connectors. I have been wanting to do that for a while now, now I will.
The starter phyically looks ok, but I need to read about how to test it... once I have at least proven it will turn, I will then know more.
I will report back as soon as learn more!!!
At this point, I am still at a loss... but I did find that the battery cables are not all that solid, so I need to replace the connectors. I have been wanting to do that for a while now, now I will.
The starter phyically looks ok, but I need to read about how to test it... once I have at least proven it will turn, I will then know more.
I will report back as soon as learn more!!!
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Wentzville MO
identical problem
I had this happen and it was the positive cable eaten away several inch inside the covering. It would arc enough to start sometimes and finally went open. The end came when it taxed the alternator enough to smoke the diodes and I was walking. Battery, starter and alternator with no progress. Finally got out my old crusty inductive current meter from the 50's and saw no current when the key was turned.
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by blown66
I had this happen and it was the positive cable eaten away several inch inside the covering. It would arc enough to start sometimes and finally went open. The end came when it taxed the alternator enough to smoke the diodes and I was walking. Battery, starter and alternator with no progress. Finally got out my old crusty inductive current meter from the 50's and saw no current when the key was turned.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: San Pedro CA
I am thinking it's in the battery cables, too... I have just returned from Autozone, and the starter and alternator passed!!
The wiring behind the battery is ok, but most of the connections and the convolute are pretty nasty... so is the rust on the frame below the battery. I am going to prime and paint tomorrow, in an attempt to protect the area a bit.
More tomorrow, as I start reassembling.
Thanks everyone!!!
The wiring behind the battery is ok, but most of the connections and the convolute are pretty nasty... so is the rust on the frame below the battery. I am going to prime and paint tomorrow, in an attempt to protect the area a bit.
More tomorrow, as I start reassembling.
Thanks everyone!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: NS
Originally Posted by bogus
I am thinking it's in the battery cables, too... I have just returned from Autozone, and the starter and alternator passed!!
The wiring behind the battery is ok, but most of the connections and the convolute are pretty nasty... so is the rust on the frame below the battery. I am going to prime and paint tomorrow, in an attempt to protect the area a bit.
More tomorrow, as I start reassembling.
Thanks everyone!!!
The wiring behind the battery is ok, but most of the connections and the convolute are pretty nasty... so is the rust on the frame below the battery. I am going to prime and paint tomorrow, in an attempt to protect the area a bit.
More tomorrow, as I start reassembling.
Thanks everyone!!!
If you go back and look at the original problem it does point to a bad connection from the battery. Hard starting. When you say the battery voltage drops to 8v when cranking are you using the dash gauge or measurig the battery posts themselves?
My guess is the voltage at the battery is fine, but you have a bad connection from the battery. Therefore, when you crank the voltage drops to the ECM and ignition systems (and dash gauge) and you get no fire. This would explain the hard start. Once the connection degraded even more it just quit.
So why didn't the altenator keep the engine running once it was started? I would look at the main ground straps. If you have a bad ground between the engine and chassis/battery it would explain everything. Just for kicks, measure the resistance between the battery negative and the alternator body. It should be 0 ohms, even 0.5 ohm would be very bad.
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Mobile AL
St. Jude Donor '05
I had essentially the same problem. I took an Exacto knife and cut the red plastic from around the positive connector and it was totally green inside the thing. Outside looked fine. I soaked it in Coke, wire brushed it, coated with WD40 and put it back on and it works fine. I suppose I could recoat with some of that liquid rubber, but it's hidden enough that if you don't look for it you can't see it anyway. Replacement, on the '96 anyway, is a PITA. BTW, a quick and dirty test to see if your alternator is putting out is to start the car, disconnect the battery and if it keeps running, the Alternator is PROBABLY ok. If it dies, the alternator is definitely bad. Good luck with yours, BOGUS.
Last edited by SilverBeast; May 17, 2005 at 07:43 AM.
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by SilverBeast
I had essentially the same problem. I took an Exacto knife and cut the red plastic from around the positive connector and it was totally green inside the thing. Outside looked fine. I soaked it in Coke, wire brushed it, coated with WD40 and put it back on and it works fine. I suppose I could recoat with some of that liquid rubber, but it's hidden enough that if you don't look for it you can't see it anyway. Replacement, on the '96 anyway, is a PITA. BTW, a quick and dirty test to see if your alternator is putting out is to start the car, disconnect the battery and if it keeps running, the Alternator is PROBABLY ok. If it dies, the alternator is definitely bad. Good luck with yours, BOGUS.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Mobile AL
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
Please do NOT test alternators this way. It can damage or ruin it and the resulting power spike from doing this can wreak havoc with any electronics in the car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: North side of Houston Texas
There are so many replies that I haven't read them all, so forgive me if this reply is a dupe.
On the Corvette Action Center site there's a campaign on the optispark that sounds like it might be at least part, if not all, of your problem.
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/kb/q....php?qstId=313
On the Corvette Action Center site there's a campaign on the optispark that sounds like it might be at least part, if not all, of your problem.
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/kb/q....php?qstId=313
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: San Pedro CA
I am aware that the opti can cause the car to "quit"... it's rare, but it can happen.
I am going to fix the cranking problem first and foremost.... I can't debug the rest until I get that done.
Once I get crank back, I am going to test the opti (via the LTCC) and the timing chain... I have a feeling it might have snapped... I have more testing in front of me.
I am going to fix the cranking problem first and foremost.... I can't debug the rest until I get that done.
Once I get crank back, I am going to test the opti (via the LTCC) and the timing chain... I have a feeling it might have snapped... I have more testing in front of me.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by bogus
I am aware that the opti can cause the car to "quit"... it's rare, but it can happen.
I am going to fix the cranking problem first and foremost.... I can't debug the rest until I get that done.
Once I get crank back, I am going to test the opti (via the LTCC) and the timing chain... I have a feeling it might have snapped... I have more testing in front of me.
I am going to fix the cranking problem first and foremost.... I can't debug the rest until I get that done.
Once I get crank back, I am going to test the opti (via the LTCC) and the timing chain... I have a feeling it might have snapped... I have more testing in front of me.
snap a steel timing chain!! Ouch! I have heard of them strechting over time, but what are the odds of actually snapping one during normal street driving??
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From: San Pedro CA
Update
Ok... I have done some more work today - quite a bit, really!
First, all the battery posts are clean, as are the main power junctions behind the battery. I also took the time to sand off (with a steel brush on air grinder) the rust under the battery box, and painted same. It looks great.
I took my breaker bar and tried again to turn the motor... Remember I said it moved? Well, I was half right, it moved backwards, but not forwards. Thinking I was bumping into compression, I started to remove the plugs... all are a bit gassy smelling... and damp.
But 2 - #s 4 & 6 were wet - that's cause THE CYLINDERS WERE FULL OF GAS!!!!!!!!!!! yes... premium unleaded. I am letting the engine breath for the time being.
The motor WAS locked up. I just hope my testing didn't hurt anything.
I am going to replace the plugs, and replace the injectors with my old stock units. At least for the time being. The injectors in there now are Ford Motorsport blue tops (24#). I installed them a year ago. I am also going to change the oil once I get is running again. I don't want that crap in there any longer then it needs to be.
Well... stuck injector(s) sure do explain the hard start problem. I am most disappointed that these injectors quit so soon.
First, all the battery posts are clean, as are the main power junctions behind the battery. I also took the time to sand off (with a steel brush on air grinder) the rust under the battery box, and painted same. It looks great.
I took my breaker bar and tried again to turn the motor... Remember I said it moved? Well, I was half right, it moved backwards, but not forwards. Thinking I was bumping into compression, I started to remove the plugs... all are a bit gassy smelling... and damp.
But 2 - #s 4 & 6 were wet - that's cause THE CYLINDERS WERE FULL OF GAS!!!!!!!!!!! yes... premium unleaded. I am letting the engine breath for the time being.
The motor WAS locked up. I just hope my testing didn't hurt anything.
I am going to replace the plugs, and replace the injectors with my old stock units. At least for the time being. The injectors in there now are Ford Motorsport blue tops (24#). I installed them a year ago. I am also going to change the oil once I get is running again. I don't want that crap in there any longer then it needs to be.
Well... stuck injector(s) sure do explain the hard start problem. I am most disappointed that these injectors quit so soon.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: Bartlett Illinois
I have not read all the posts, if this was already mentioned I apologize..
I would also check the fuel pressure regulator to be sure the it has not failed, the membrane in the regulator could have ruptured causing the vacuum line to suck gas right in to the cylinders
I would also check the fuel pressure regulator to be sure the it has not failed, the membrane in the regulator could have ruptured causing the vacuum line to suck gas right in to the cylinders
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: San Pedro CA
ah, good point. I will check that.
EDIT:
It was a good point!!! I just removed the rail, and fuel came out of the AFPR... interesting, eh? I am going to replace and reassemble.
First, I am going to check the injectors for resistance...
Thanks!!!
EDIT:
It was a good point!!! I just removed the rail, and fuel came out of the AFPR... interesting, eh? I am going to replace and reassemble.
First, I am going to check the injectors for resistance...
Thanks!!!
Last edited by bogus; May 17, 2005 at 04:15 PM.
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From: The Top of Utah
The first thing *I* would do is crank it over with all the plugs out. Crank it for a while. This will expel a lot of the liquid so it will dry out faster. The second thing I would do is change the oil and filter. I wouldn't want to run it long enough to warm it up before an oil change. Use cheap oil and change it again after you've solved all the problems. Before I did a wholesale swap on the injectors, I would test for both leaky injectors and and FPR. If you do too many things at once, you may never determine exactly where the problem was. If the Phord injectors are leaking, you'll know it, and you can deal with them appropriately. If not, and you still want to swap injectors, you will KNOW the set of blue tops on the shelf are good.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: San Pedro CA
I tested the injectors, all have a resistance between 14.5 and 14.7 ohms. I don't think they are the problem.
I am going to crank the motor without the plugs for just that reason - blow out the gick.
I am getting ready to head back out - I have some cheap oil I can use to change with and will run that for a day or two then swap back to synthetic.
I am going to crank the motor without the plugs for just that reason - blow out the gick.
I am getting ready to head back out - I have some cheap oil I can use to change with and will run that for a day or two then swap back to synthetic.