When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Engine temp getting down between 140-150F on highway. Why??
I had my chip tuned along with a 180F thermostat so the engine runs a little cooler. It worked great for quite a while. But now lately, the engine coolant temp gets down to around 142F on the highway, which is the lowest I have ever seen it get. I know the computer has got to be going into open loop at that temp (maybe I am wrong), but is there somewhere I can start looking that might be a possible problem? Anyone else have this problem. As far as idling or normal driving, the temp stays between 170-195F usually. Thanks!
I'm assuming that closed loop is occurring when my convertor locks up.?
It locks up right around 125 on the gauge, which I believe is more like 130.
When I had a scanner hooked up the ecm was seeing +5deg more than the gauge was showing.
Your thermostat may have stuck wide open. I suggest changing it.
It is also possible that the sensor has gone bad.
But under the circumstances reported, the thermostat is my primary
suspect, too.
The coolant level is up, right?
Try posting in C4 Scan & Tune to determine if or when coolant temp
signals open loop. HeeHaw89, ditto for the interaction between C/L
and the converter locking up.
I had my chip tuned along with a 180F thermostat so the engine runs a little cooler. It worked great for quite a while. But now lately, the engine coolant temp gets down to around 142F on the highway, which is the lowest I have ever seen it get. I know the computer has got to be going into open loop at that temp (maybe I am wrong), but is there somewhere I can start looking that might be a possible problem? Anyone else have this problem. As far as idling or normal driving, the temp stays between 170-195F usually. Thanks!
Is that the indicated temperature on your dash? You should scan the ECM and see what it is seeing for a temperature. There are two sensors, one for the ECM and one for the dash instruments.
Your thermostat may have stuck wide open. I suggest changing it. Usually they slam shut at some point. Overheating then happens.
It is my experience that there are two different types of thermostats. Those that fail open and those that fail closed. Unless your gauge is reading incorrectly, and the 170° to 195° at idle and cruise indicates that it's working, there is no question that your stat isn't closing. I wouldn't worry about it closing on you, but it needs to be changed, A.S.A.P.
Replace the thermostat with a fail open type such as the MotorRad.
It is VERY unhealthy for your engine to have low temperature especially in the winter time. It leads to lots of gunk and acids in the crankcase because the moisture is not boiled out of the oil.
I would also change oil when I change the thermostat.
I aggree, it would have to be damn cold out to support that
But not impossible. If the engine is turning relatively low RPM's, such as at highway speeds, and you have a lot of airflow through the radiator, such as at highway speeds, and you have cold temperatures, such as in January.
Certainly wouldn't hurt to check. What's a thermostat cost, $5?
I suspect the coolant temp sensor, even with a stat malfunction the coolant should not be able to maintain those temperatures.
In New Jersey? In January? With a newly reprogrammed prom to turn the fans on earlier? *I* think so. I normally advocate testing everything, before replacing it. However, a test won't be needed, here. If you pull the stat out and it is wide (or even a little) open, you have your answer. If not, TEST your thermostat AND ECT sensor. My car runs a constant 178° on the highway at anything over 50 mph in 40° ambient temperature air, with a 180° thermostat, with no fan. I sometimes wonder how low it could go. I really should stick that 195° stat in there for the winter.
Darkman,
Is your cooling fan on all the time while you are driving? My vette will go down to 155-165 while on the highway this time of the year but on the street it runs normal and I live in Jersey also.
Randy
VERY low. I had a '91 cutlass that the thermostat decided to stick open on one night when it was 20 degrees outside. The car didn't have any kind of temp gauge, but I know my heater didn't work at ALL, it was absolutely ice cold, mean it physically hurt your hands to hold them in front of the vent for any length of time.
Now if I let the car idle for a long time it would actually heat up, but the instant there was any airflow across the radiator it would go right back to ice cold.
The radiators on most cars are actually, for lack of a better term, "over efficient" and perfectly capable of plunging the operating temperature well below the ideal point, hence the reason for a thermostat in the first place.
A friend of mine had an LT1 that the thermostat stuck open on. I drove that car from his house to mine one night when it was about 12 degrees out. I drove 5 miles at highway speeds and when I got to my house I popped the hood and was able to place my hand right on the intake. Not only was it not hot, it was still ice cold.
As a follow up to my post #3 above, I pulled my thermostat tonight and it was stuck open. Not all the way, but it was definately open.
I threw it in boiling water and it opened wide but after pulling it out it stayed open maybe1/3 of the way, just as it was when I pulled it out of the car.
Also if you are still unsure of your temp gauge accuracy, compare it to your oil temp reading. They are usually fairly close, with the oil running a little hotter.
I had this exact problem months ago and it was a failed t-stat stuck in the open position. Its better for it to get stuck open than closed and burn up your motor.