TC Lockup 4L60E Problem
Pro
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 703
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From: Cypress Texas
Another thing to check is the switch on the brake pedal. I had a very similar problem with my '94 and noticed that if I lifted up on the brake pedal with my foot, it would lock and stay that way. You might try pulling up on the brake pedal with your foot when it starts to do this. If so, it is a very simple adjustment that only requires the removal of the lower dash panel to access the switches. The switches have built in adjusters so all you have to do is push it forward until it is flush against the pedal. Hope this helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Originally Posted by REDC4CORVETTE
And you are going to say you don't have a ASR cable to adjust yours eather 
.
.
Originally Posted by rayosequis
Another thing to check is the switch on the brake pedal. I had a very similar problem with my '94 and noticed that if I lifted up on the brake pedal with my foot, it would lock and stay that way. You might try pulling up on the brake pedal with your foot when it starts to do this. If so, it is a very simple adjustment that only requires the removal of the lower dash panel to access the switches. The switches have built in adjusters so all you have to do is push it forward until it is flush against the pedal. Hope this helps.
This is one thing i meant to say earlier too, my 87 did that at one stage, and if you put your foot behind the brake pedal and lifted it, it would stay locked up.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Taylorsville UT
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think the strange throttle issue I am having at non-freeway speeds is also effecting the torque converter when I'm on the freeway. I'm going to attempt to fix that problem first and see if it fixes the other. RedC4Corvette, I think the confusion has come in when you said "I would adjust the trans cable first." Although I have a throttle cable running to the ASR I don't believe the ASR has anything that connects to the transmission. I assume you meant to say that I should try adjusting my throttle cable, which I will go ahead and check.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 6
From: Middletown New Jersey
Originally Posted by Pete K
It is the throttle position sensor. Do not be offended by me saying:
Without even a basic understanding of a computer controlled drivetrain, you cannot solve your problem. Avoid swapping parts. It is more costly in the end. For what it is worth, the common, easily swapped, inexpensive part that it could be is the lock up solenoid. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Without even a basic understanding of a computer controlled drivetrain, you cannot solve your problem. Avoid swapping parts. It is more costly in the end. For what it is worth, the common, easily swapped, inexpensive part that it could be is the lock up solenoid. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
aug1516 - I am no mechanic by any means so don't be offended when I say Pete has given you sage advice here but you seem to be ignoring it. Trans are tough enough for most regular mechanics but based on your question about the TPS, you are way out of your league here.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,532
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From: Lahaina Hi
If you have the factory book it will show you how to set up the cable.
I like mine to shift at a higher rpm so I set mine up real tight at the throttle cable which in turn will affect the trans shift points by a few miles and hour.
I would set the throttle cable up tight to start and unlock the slide as discribed above and move it to the diff nouches in the cable to lower or rase the shifting points of the trans.
The other way is to have a lap top and adjust the tps voltage higher or lower at idle by using the idle screw. Datamaster can help with that.It's it is the same thing that a power programmer
does to make the car feel faster.All it does is run the tps voltage up sooner .
I like mine to shift at a higher rpm so I set mine up real tight at the throttle cable which in turn will affect the trans shift points by a few miles and hour.
I would set the throttle cable up tight to start and unlock the slide as discribed above and move it to the diff nouches in the cable to lower or rase the shifting points of the trans.
The other way is to have a lap top and adjust the tps voltage higher or lower at idle by using the idle screw. Datamaster can help with that.It's it is the same thing that a power programmer
does to make the car feel faster.All it does is run the tps voltage up sooner .
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Taylorsville UT
Originally Posted by GlennS87
aug1516 - I am no mechanic by any means so don't be offended when I say Pete has given you sage advice here but you seem to be ignoring it. Trans are tough enough for most regular mechanics but based on your question about the TPS, you are way out of your league here.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Taylorsville UT
Ok, I just got back from a test drive and it does appear that problem still exists. I did not try the brake pedal thing yet but I will when I get a chance. When I am on the freeway cruising I am not actually touching the brake pedal when it happens though so I don't think the switch is the problem. It seems to happen most when I am crusing around 1800-1900rpms at somewhere between 60 and 70mph. Suddenly the rpms jump up a hair to 2000 or so and it feels like something is engaging/disengaging. Maybe this has nothing to do with the torque converter at all but that is what my friend thought it was. Before I discount the transmission shop, will they be able to get any information or codes out of the computer that my little paperclip trick on the ADLD connector would not? If so, then they may still be worth a visit.
Last edited by aug1516; Feb 11, 2006 at 12:22 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
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From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Originally Posted by aug1516
I did not try the brake pedal thing yet but I will when I get a chance. When I am on the freeway cruising I am not actually touching the brake pedal when it happens though so I don't think the switch is the problem. .
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 7
From: Lahaina Hi
Did you check your trans fluid level ?these transes hate the fluid to be to low or high.
If you set your cruise control at this 60 or 70 does it still do it?
Or does it only do it when you are operation the throttle?
If you set your cruise control at this 60 or 70 does it still do it?
Or does it only do it when you are operation the throttle?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Taylorsville UT
I went for another drive and checked out the things you all mentioned. The problem occurs with cruise control on for starters. I tried pulling up on the brake pedal with the problem occurs and I did not notice any change in behavior. I checked the fluid when I got home per the procedure and the fluid level always came out way too high. It's possible I was just screwing up the procedure but would too much transmission fluid cause this type of problem?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
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From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Not sure that too much would cause that, but lets run through that procedure of fluid checking....
With the car on LEVEL GROUND, engine at IDLE, and trans in PARK (or N but i use park) pull the dipstick out and wipe it clean, then push it back in fully, and remove it again, then check the level. If the engine is off, the reading will be way up high. The fluid should be a redish/pinkish colour (wipe it on some white paper to see colour) and shouldnt smell burnt.
With the car on LEVEL GROUND, engine at IDLE, and trans in PARK (or N but i use park) pull the dipstick out and wipe it clean, then push it back in fully, and remove it again, then check the level. If the engine is off, the reading will be way up high. The fluid should be a redish/pinkish colour (wipe it on some white paper to see colour) and shouldnt smell burnt.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Taylorsville UT
Fluid looked OK and was checked with the car running in park. Now that I've went through some of the simplier things to check I'm going to take Pete's advice and have a tranny shop take a quick look. They can at least tell me if it's torque converter causing the problem or something else. I should know the answer by Monday evening.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Lahaina Hi
I would see if you have a vaccum leak at the passengerside of valve cover.Under the cover that covers the injectors you will find a 3 way air valve with rubber hoses attached to it see if it is leaking ..
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Taylorsville UT
Well I already scheduled for a shop to look at it tomorrow morning. If it really is a vacuum leak that will be easy to fix because I bought some valve gaskets a couple days ago and was going to have to remove those covers anyway. How do these vacuum lines interact with the transmission? Thanks for all your suggestions Red, I do appreciate it.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,532
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From: Lahaina Hi
The vaccum 3 way connector I am talking about is under the plastic cover on the passenger side ,not under the valve cover,it's the injector cover,They just pull off,and it runs along side the intake,has 3 vaccum hoses running to it.You said your cruise would act up, the vaccum lines that go to that black 3 way valve ,operate tha a/c cruise and other items that can effect the whole car.It will also make the trans feel like something is wrong with it.
Always get atleast 3 or more opinions on the problem .
Paying for diagnosis is cheaper than fixing the wrong problem.
Get back to us and let all of us know what is going on before you have the work done
Always get atleast 3 or more opinions on the problem .
Paying for diagnosis is cheaper than fixing the wrong problem.
Get back to us and let all of us know what is going on before you have the work done
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 69
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From: Taylorsville UT
The transmission shop just called back and they were able to replicate the problem but said they saw no codes being given and were really unsure what was causing the problem. Their solution is to rebuild the transmission which they said would cost anywhere from $1200-$2000. At this point I am still not sure that the transmission is the problem so I am a bit hesitant to rebuild it. Does anyone think something like a Datamaster logging device would be helpful here? I assume it would tell me if the car is telling the converter to disengage or if the converter actually has a problem and is doing it on its own. As far as the vaccum thing goes would that connection effect the torque converters behavior when I am not using cruise control?
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
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Did the shop confirm that the converter is, in fact, locking and unlocking as you origionally suspected? If it is, you have 2 possible solutions as I see it. Again, this assumes the problem is in the trans. Swap out the converter or rebuild the trans. Auto transmissions are extremely complicated to repair. Removal and disassembly is required to try to find the problem. This is why most shops are quick to rebuild. Also, aways use a new converter in a rebuilt trans. This avoids contaminating the fresh trans. Cooler flush is also needed with a trans swap.