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They did confirm it was the converter. Do you have any recommendations on figuring out if the problem is with the trans or with something else in the car? I am thinking about trying a mechanic I have been to before to see what he can come up with.
They did confirm it was the converter. Do you have any recommendations on figuring out if the problem is with the trans or with something else in the car? I am thinking about trying a mechanic I have been to before to see what he can come up with.
If the electronics that lock and unlock the converter are good, swapping out the converter and rubber o ring on the end of the input shaft are your only hope as I see it. Except for a complete overhaul, of course.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't a datalogger of some kind tell me if the converter is being sent a signal to lock/unlock (which would point to a electronic issue) or if it's just doing it on its own (transmission/converter problem)?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't a datalogger of some kind tell me if the converter is being sent a signal to lock/unlock (which would point to a electronic issue) or if it's just doing it on its own (transmission/converter problem)?
True. Your shop should have been able to do this when they scanned it. I assume that they did. It cannot hurt to verify this yourself though.
Something like the Datamaster would do it correct? I have been looking at them for a little while now and it may be time to get one. I also picked up my car from the transmission shop and I got the impression that they did not hook up any kind of logger device and just assumed the problem is mechanical and not any kind of electronic problem.
Something like the Datamaster would do it correct? I have been looking at them for a little while now and it may be time to get one. I also picked up my car from the transmission shop and I got the impression that they did not hook up any kind of logger device and just assumed the problem is mechanical and not any kind of electronic problem.
Follow your gut and check it as you describe. On one hand, their experience could have allowed them to diagnose with the seat of the pants. On the other hand they may simply want to take your money and do an overhaul. In all likelyhood an overhaul and new converter will solve your problem. Hopefully you will get lucky and have it be something minor. Or at worst, a torque converter. Good luck either way.
If a new transmission is required I will be purchasing one from a well known company like FLP or ProBuilt. They are going to charge me similiar prices for a rebuild so I might as well get one that can hold up to any future engine modifications I may desire. I'm still leaning towards a electronic malfunction causing the problem though so as soon as I get my datamaster I will know for sure.
I'm not sure exactly what you mean. I don't think the transmission shop cut into anything.
Well it is common sense when ever you change the fluid in the trans to cut open the old filter and see what it has inside. Id have thought any good transmission shop would do that and tell you what it was like. In that picture i posted ubove you can see the clutch material inside the filter, as well as some fine metal particles as well. This was in my 94 not long after i bought it, and apart from a flare up from 2nd-3rd at WOT, you would never know the trans was almost dead.
Well it is common sense when ever you change the fluid in the trans to cut open the old filter and see what it has inside. Id have thought any good transmission shop would do that and tell you what it was like. In that picture i posted ubove you can see the clutch material inside the filter, as well as some fine metal particles as well. This was in my 94 not long after i bought it, and apart from a flare up from 2nd-3rd at WOT, you would never know the trans was almost dead.
It sounds like the trans shop did nearly nothing, except offer an opinion.
They were "kind" enough to offer the 2k rebuild though.
And what an offer mate!!!! At that price, (not knowing what you normally pay) but it would want to be bloody good with servere duty parts!! Funny how they can make that offer without looking inside to see what it really is, for all we know from what has been said here, it still could be something rather more simple, but then since we cant see the car, and cant see the problem in action, who knows if they just offered that rebuild cause they are lazy, or cause they truly know thats what it really needs?
Well I have good news, sort of. The problem appears to have gone away on it's own. I have driven on the freeway at least 8-10 times in the past couple of days and have had no problems at all. As far as I know the tranmission shop did not even open up the tranny or change any fluids so I don't know if anything they did could have fixed the issue. The only thing I have done is adjusted the throttle cable but I don't see why that would have done anything. So I'm happy that the problem is gone but I don't believe that it will stay gone forever. Thanks everyone for your help though, I may be revisting this problem in the future.
next time you have it serviced, insist on either getting the filter back from them to take home and cut open, or have them cut it open with you present. If they open it up and it is spotless, it makes it hard for them to stick you with a rebuilt, and if they tell you its fine but the filter is chocka block with rubish, then you will know the condition.
next time you have it serviced, insist on either getting the filter back from them to take home and cut open, or have them cut it open with you present. If they open it up and it is spotless, it makes it hard for them to stick you with a rebuilt, and if they tell you its fine but the filter is chocka block with rubish, then you will know the condition.
Good advise. It also applies to engine problems. The stuff inside of a filter will tell the tale.
Another thing to check is the switch on the brake pedal. I had a very similar problem with my '94 and noticed that if I lifted up on the brake pedal with my foot, it would lock and stay that way. You might try pulling up on the brake pedal with your foot when it starts to do this. If so, it is a very simple adjustment that only requires the removal of the lower dash panel to access the switches. The switches have built in adjusters so all you have to do is push it forward until it is flush against the pedal. Hope this helps.
Thanks! I have this same problem on my '93. Had it with the old tranny, and also with the new tranny between 50 - 53 mph. I just took her out, lifted up on the brake pedal, and voila! It worked!