engergizing FP
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: SAN DIEGO CA
I just tested my fuel relay on "C". The color of the wire for "C" is Orange, not a green striped one. Is this correct? I tested it with a test light and it does not go on. If fact, I went ahead and put the test light on all the terminals A-D and none lit up. I had an extra Mem cal so I just figured Id throw it on the computer and see what happens. As I expected, nothing happened. When I crank the engine I see oil pressure building up to like 6psi. So i guess my question would be is the orange color correct for the fuel relay "c" and if so, what would I do next.
I had an engineer at work tell my to try my volt meter. I put the black teminal in the "C" connections and grounded the red one the car. It gave me a reading of -1.3 and stayed the same even after I turn the car to the on position. I had the meter set to 200 dc v. I wonder if heard him wrong and should of put in on DC A. Mmmm.
I had an engineer at work tell my to try my volt meter. I put the black teminal in the "C" connections and grounded the red one the car. It gave me a reading of -1.3 and stayed the same even after I turn the car to the on position. I had the meter set to 200 dc v. I wonder if heard him wrong and should of put in on DC A. Mmmm.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,315
Likes: 245
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Orange wire should be on terminal "E". Orange wire should be hot at all times according to the schematic.
Does your car start ??
If you have no power on terminal "E" (orange wire) than the fusible link must be blown.
Does your car start ??
If you have no power on terminal "E" (orange wire) than the fusible link must be blown.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: SAN DIEGO CA
I have no power to any of the contacts on the Fuel relay harness. I tried each one. I tripled checked the "C" terminal to make sure I was probing the right one and it was definitely Orange. If i follow the Orange wire I should find a Fuseable link on the wire? When I checked the diagrams that were sent to me it had the Fuel relay being above the battery and to the right. I hope I havent been testing the wrong one. I dont even see a Green/white wire on the harness.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,315
Likes: 245
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Originally Posted by PMARTINEZ92126
I have no power to any of the contacts on the Fuel relay harness. I tried each one. I tripled checked the "C" terminal to make sure I was probing the right one and it was definitely Orange. If i follow the Orange wire I should find a Fuseable link on the wire? When I checked the diagrams that were sent to me it had the Fuel relay being above the battery and to the right. I hope I havent been testing the wrong one. I dont even see a Green/white wire on the harness.
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Co...0View%2086.pdf
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: SAN DIEGO CA
I had been testing the wrong Relay but the results are the same. I did notice alot of the protective coatings on the wire had shrunk leaving about 1 inch of wire exposed. It was this way on the green/white one and a few others. I tested the green/white wire with a test light and it did not come on when I turned the car to the on position. I tested the rest of the wires on the relay and I had no power on any of them. Fuel pump still pressures on through the "g" terminal.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 848
Likes: 1
From: 1992 LT1 6 speed Cayman Islands
All of the fusable links are on a junction block behind the battery connected to a wire that goes straight to the battery pos terminal.
Check them all by removing the nut holding them all. Clean them all before installing.
Check each one as they may be burnt internally although you can usually see the insulation burnt or the wire is burnt through.
You can buy new fusable links from NAPA or Pep Boys etc. Saulder them on and use heat shrink tubing to seal the joint.
Jerris
Check them all by removing the nut holding them all. Clean them all before installing.
Check each one as they may be burnt internally although you can usually see the insulation burnt or the wire is burnt through.
You can buy new fusable links from NAPA or Pep Boys etc. Saulder them on and use heat shrink tubing to seal the joint.
Jerris
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: SAN DIEGO CA
So if I understand right the power to the relay should come from the power Junction behind the battery. I was told one of those wires on the Fuel relay should be hot all the time. The power for that wire should come from the power junction? I will remove the battery and go through all the wires and repair the wires at the Fuel pump relay. So if i check out the wires and there good Im thinking Im running out of options. Any suggestions after the wire repairs (if any needed).
Thanks,
Thanks,
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: SAN DIEGO CA
I started to take off the plastic sheathing around the wires and they all look pretty good. All the wires at the Junction box behind the battery look good too. The only wires that were screwed up were the Fuel relay ones. The sheathing had shrunk an inch or two. Im in the process of fixing those wires now. Is there any wire I should try and trace back to the ECM? Would a bad ECM be the cause for no power at the fuel relay? Would I be able to tell if the ECM went bad by looking for burnt tracers on the board? 
Drifting
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
Originally Posted by PMARTINEZ92126
I tested the green/white wire with a test light and it did not come on when I turned the car to the on position. I tested the rest of the wires on the relay and I had no power on any of them. Fuel pump still pressures on through the "g" terminal.
Circuit 340 which is the orange wire into FP relay terminal E comes directly from the battery. It is the main power through the FP relay when the relay is closed. That wire should show at 12v all the time. Unless there is a fusible link problem, or your circuits are substantially different from mine you should see power at all times on the orange wire into the FP relay. Are you sure that you have tested the correct relay input circuits properly?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: SAN DIEGO CA
I just received my FSM in the mail yesterday and I am in the process of finding out why i have no power to the fuel relay (at least i had no power). I have seen the diagram that shows the power to the orange wire is constant because it is a direct connection to the battery. I have traced the orange wire and it seems to be slightly burned. I have seen it before but I was under the assumption the burning was caused by a car fire i had last valentines day. I have power now to the fuel relay but it seems to be intermittent. I will replace the fuseable link today and see if Im able to get a more reliable power source. Now my new question is where can i find wire with fuseable link that looks like the one I have in there now. I hate doing patch jobs with different colored wire. I like it looking stock with all the correct wiring (if possible). I guy at the dealer looked confused when I asked about it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: SAN DIEGO CA
The Verdict
The reason the Fuel pump wouldnt pressure up was because it was not getting any power to the Fuel Relay or Oil Pressure switch. I traced the wire back to the positive battery cable (which was replaced a year ago). I disconnected the connections that gives power to the oil switch and relay. This wire should be hot and comes from the positive battery cable. I stuck a test light inside and it gave me power until i moved the wire back and forth a few times. Then the power would cut in and out. The connection inside the positive battery cable that gives power was being interrupted. From the outside the wire looks good and I wouldnt of suspected that it came loose from inside. Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!! 
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Acton, MA 1990 ZF6 Coupe, Z51
[QUOTE=CFI-EFI]
You like throwing money at it don't you? You have needlessly replaced a fuel pump relay, without testing it, and now you want to replace a fuel pump that HAS been tested, and tests GOOD.
You have a problem in your fuel system wiring. The fuel pressure should jump up when you turn the key, even if only briefly, just like when you energize terminal "G" of the ALDL. You know it isn't the pump and it isn't the fuse. Now you need to trace, check wires and connections and TROUBLE SHOOT until you find the problem. That is, unless you can think of other GOOD parts that you'd like to replace.
You like throwing money at it don't you? You have needlessly replaced a fuel pump relay, without testing it, and now you want to replace a fuel pump that HAS been tested, and tests GOOD.
You have a problem in your fuel system wiring. The fuel pressure should jump up when you turn the key, even if only briefly, just like when you energize terminal "G" of the ALDL. You know it isn't the pump and it isn't the fuse. Now you need to trace, check wires and connections and TROUBLE SHOOT until you find the problem. That is, unless you can think of other GOOD parts that you'd like to replace.
Drifting
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
Originally Posted by PMARTINEZ92126
The reason the Fuel pump wouldnt pressure up was because it was not getting any power to the Fuel Relay or Oil Pressure switch. I traced the wire back to the positive battery cable (which was replaced a year ago). I disconnected the connections that gives power to the oil switch and relay. This wire should be hot and comes from the positive battery cable. I stuck a test light inside and it gave me power until i moved the wire back and forth a few times. Then the power would cut in and out. The connection inside the positive battery cable that gives power was being interrupted. From the outside the wire looks good and I wouldnt of suspected that it came loose from inside. Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!
You started out slow, but you now appear to have learned the ways of the force. Congratulations!!