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Has anyone used these?? My dilema is I have an 86' block that is already set up to go together as a 383. I've got a LP 213 cam, but have read here that in a 383 it's to "Wimpy" even w/1.6 rollers, so I've been looking to upgrade before assembly. Howards has a "parkerized, teflon coated, billet core, small base circle, flat tappet gind 112601-S. The specs are : @.050 I 235* .500, E 240* .510, on a 112 LSA. With 1.6 rollers it would be I .533, E .544. I'll be using mildly ported Dart 200's, 10:1, headers, and Wife permitting, (she hasen't yet!) an SR. To back it up a Richmond 6 spd. and 3.07 rear. Is it worth buying, or just stick with what I've got??? It's a go to work, and screw around car. Thanks in advance, John.
235/240@.050?? I agree thas a pretty big stick, espc for a flat tappet. Hope you got about a 3000 stall converter, because with that much duration combined with 112 Lobe seperation your low end tq is gonna suffer badly.
If your looking for more power from the TPI with a 383 why not upgrade to a hyd roller?? There a dozen people who have proven camshaft combos with heads and bottom end something similar to yours. Maybe they will chime in here.
Will
I've got a 6 spd Richmond, first gear is super low. I'd lke to go roller but that money got blown making my sled faster, this cam's only $110. I'm just afraid that when I upgrade the intake it'll run out of steam, and it'll have to come apart again. My Wife named the car "Sitting Still", so there's some animosity that she has to park outside so I've only got 1 shot at this.
And I mean in lift, it is 496/520 w/1.6s so it isn't huge by any means...
But my motor with
-ported Dart 200cc Pro1s
-Port matched SR
-Hyper pistons w/10.3:1 compression (40 quench)
-LPE 213 w/1.6 roller TIP rocker arms
-383cid
-4+3 (1st gear is 2.88 vs your ???)
-3.07 d44 rear
So with essentially the same motor I made 326rwhp/400rwtq. I think it can actually make around 340rwhp/420rwtq once the tune is all settled and she is running well. (Note this is on a stingy Mustang dyno)
It isn't mild by any means, I just regret not going with a proven LPE 219 roller. I think at this point in your build it would be best to either stick with the 213 or get a custom cam that fits your intake+head flow characteristics. If you want, I can post my flow numbers so you can see how similar the heads are.
I also, depending on your head flow numbers, would look at a single pattern cam.
So post em up!
Yes, USA, it was in one of your replies that you stated it was too wimpy... I didn,t want to be disappointed! It seems that it should be good judging by your current results, I hope mine works out similarily. If you wouldn't mind, please post those #'s on your heads.
Vetracer, 1st is almost non existent it's so low. Not sure what ratio, the previous owner put it in. But you're probably right...
Anyway, my new problem today the crank felt tight in one spot after torque down on the studs, so it's off to Moldex after work he said he'd check it while I wait. Can't wait til this things back in one piece, but i don't need any mistakes at this point. Thanks, for your input, John.
A.) Howards make a great cam and have been very popular with the racing crowd for years. they tend to stick with the wild type stuff and this cam you mentioned is probably on the very tame side of what they usually do.
B.) I was in a situation very similar to your in that I wanted to use a 230/236 cam in a 383 with a s/r. The first problem I ran into was tuning. Some (tuners) said it could not be done, others said it could, but would require a lot of data logging and so forth to get it right. The second issue I ran into is with my choice of the superram. From what I was told by ALL of the tuners that spoke with, a superram does not work well with big duration cams. too much exhaust gas is expelled back into the plenum at idle and low rpm and is recirculated back through on the intake stroke causing "dirty air" to be used for combustion.
I do not at all claim to know what I am talking about, so please dont blast me for mis-stating my facts. All of the tuners that I had spoke with told me that a MiniRam would would work much better for a large duration cam like my 230/235. that was the story from 6 different guys I had consulted.
If you have not already picked up a superram, maybe you might wnat to look at the TPIS Miniram option instead.
Also, DECIDE ON YOUR TUNER AND CONSULT THEM FIRST! before buying too many parts. (ask me how I know...)
Hope this was somewhat helpful
USA : Looks like they flow good.. hope mine do, haven't had them on a bench yet.
Thanks padrummer, you're probably right, A mini would work better with that cam. Thing is they're quite pricey, even used. Some people grab them for $299!! But not me. I guess I'm just accustomed to to carb motors, and big blocks. I love the lope and rumble out of boat, but I probably won't get that out of the car.
I'd better look around and ask some tuners whats possible.
They are ported just so you know. So don't expect that out of the box.
I am sure you will be happy with whatever you do. I am just regretting not getting the easy horsepower from the 219 while the motor was on the stand, not in the car.
The 213 will be an awesome DD, I get around ~26mpg (with my foot our of it). I think you'll be happy.
Your cam choice from Howards is large but it work with the Superram. I am running a cam that is larger then the cam you have listed and it works fine as a daily driver but it does idle rough and was tricky to tune to get it to idle steadly at 800 RPM.
It really depends upon what you consider tolerable for a daily driver. If you want a very smooth idle then stay with the 213 cam. If you want it to sound mean but still have good street mannors pick the larger cam.