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fubar,
puulease keep posting on this swap.
i've a great running 355/lt1 intake sbc1 in mine now,but i can still remember my 68 L71 big block setting me back in the seat--gotta go back...sbc ''architecture'' just isn't right for mountain (ok-big hill at least motors)...did i mention i've got a 461 bb without a home?
everybody else sez the rack has to move--would like not move mine--you sure?...you using a 168 or 153 flywheel?
i'm going 168, all parts are SFI approved and i have my little stickers for them (yay!)...i went with a mini started for added clearence if needed...
i actually have a little more porting to do on the team G intake. once that is done i'll have the 427 buttoned up and ready to go. i'm aiming to have the motor & trans out this week. i'd really like someone to buy this motor & trans coming out of the car...lol...just kinda cash strapped for other reasons right now...
THAT RED VETTE IS SICK SICK SICK SICK SICK...
when i said 1,000hp...i meant just that. would i ever use it? probably not. bragging rights more than anything.
this motor should be plenty enough for me to cope with for awhile. i'd like to have it done so i can meet ski at the strip this year but i doubt that will happen, but i would like ti done or most of the way there before the snow flies.
when i said 1,000hp...i meant just that. would i ever use it? probably not. bragging rights more than anything.
this motor should be plenty enough for me to cope with for awhile. i'd like to have it done so i can meet ski at the strip this year but i doubt that will happen, but i would like ti done or most of the way there before the snow flies.
I just decided to do an LS1 swap with a T-56... a 427 LSx type motor with massive heads, cam, exhaust, tune, etc. would make 800 not bustin a sweat. But the BBC in the C4 WILL be braggin rights because you just don't see it... kinda like an LSx/T56 combo like i'm doing... I wanted the weight savings of the aluminum engine so I didn't have to make as much power to get her going...
Fubar, I look foward to reading about your conversion as it comes along!! You cant beat the wow factor of raising the hood and seeing a BB under there. I seen one at Carsile last year and they are neat to see. Also, the fact that you have 2.19 and 1.88 valves alone speaks volumes to the abilities of the BB over the SB.
oh man...if i could have this done for carlisle, i'd be happier then hell. i just don't realistically see it happening. like any project getting the big stuff in is easy, it's the little stuff that will kill you.
having the front of the car torn down has allowed me to begin to dream up some ways to stiffen the front end up...alot. i'm not talking small weld in braces, i'm talking some big stock and careful manipulation. Also, once everything is laid out underneath the car, i'm gonna see what i can do about reinforcing the underside of the car...
Ski, who did your cage for you? if i remember right it had swing out door bars and the whole nine yards. it was a work of art!
As for fuel, i'm staying with an electric pump and getting a FPR to step it down to what's required for the demon.
Drivetrain duties are being handled by a Mad Dog 700R4- the baddest one they could build. at $2,080 to my door with the 3,000 stall & cooler, it better be worth every penny of that.
Oh...ski...another quick one...you still have that ratchet shifter in yours? which model was that? i'd like to pick one up for mine.
Alright!!!!! Fubar is going to join the C4 BB ranks. If you want my Sanderson headers I'll dig them out of the garbage for you. I do think however that they run so close to the block that they made it run hot. I just made headers for mine with 2.25" primaries. Oh, and I'm pretty sure that C3 BB headers will not fit, the frame gets into the way of cylinders 1 & 2. Cylinders 1 and 2 take a pretty drastic turn down. You might be able to buy headers for a C3 and simply modify tubes 1 & 2.. (why didn't I think of that?)
I don't know... the big block is pretty cool, but I have WAY too much time in mine.... And ski, I can put my engine on a regular old engine stand withiout any problem. Alum Dart heads, Merlin Pro Race block. Just no way a SBC can stay with a BBC that is at the top of its game. Physics at work.
Alright!!!!! Fubar is going to join the C4 BB ranks. If you want my Sanderson headers I'll dig them out of the garbage for you. I do think however that they run so close to the block that they made it run hot. I just made headers for mine with 2.25" primaries. Oh, and I'm pretty sure that C3 BB headers will not fit, the frame gets into the way of cylinders 1 & 2. Cylinders 1 and 2 take a pretty drastic turn down. You might be able to buy headers for a C3 and simply modify tubes 1 & 2.. (why didn't I think of that?)
I don't know... the big block is pretty cool, but I have WAY too much time in mine.... And ski, I can put my engine on a regular old engine stand withiout any problem. Alum Dart heads, Merlin Pro Race block. Just no way a SBC can stay with a BBC that is at the top of its game. Physics at work.
that would make my day! what would you liek for them?
also, what increase did you see going from your block huggers to LT's on a monster motor like yours?
that would make my day! what would you liek for them?
also, what increase did you see going from your block huggers to LT's on a monster motor like yours?
I'll send them to you for free. You pay the shipping. PM me your address. I wish I would have kept the turn outs that I made that hook the headers to the exhaust. I will warn you that the tube for #2 is dented a bit because it hit the shock tower, but I will send you a new 1 7/8" u-bend that bought long ago with the intention of redirecting it out of the way. Fitting your dipstick might also be a problem as they run VERY close to the block. I will tell you these headers posed a major blockage to making HP (although I did make 806rwhp while breaking a blower belt in the process. I have some picture on my picture site that show the new headers I made (before they were coated) laying next to the Sandersons. The 1 7/8 primary tubes are at least .25" square inches too small for a regular BBC exhaust port.
I fully expect my motor to make over a 1000 rwhp next trip to the dyno.
tony,
if fubar doesn't want the headers i'll kill to be second in line.
how did you make room for the blower drive--delete the rack and go to skid steer?...just curious cause i'm not planning a huffer, just street use,viper killer (one in particular)...steering looks like only major pita so far, any warnings?
I've got a set of BBC motor plates- Aluminum two-piece fronts and a steel rear I would pass on cheap. I was gonna do a similar project on my old 1985 but that car had to go away when the 1991 came into the garage.
They are the Art Morrison pieces and I'd happily send them to a new home for $75 shipped. I've got no use for them and hate paying E-bay. They would definitely help with the chassis stiffening angle as the drivetrain becomes an integral structure!
motor plates? i've heard many using them, many using them in swaps, but hardly ever see them installed. do you have pics of a motor plate setup?
i'm assuming i could use the stock mounts to line everything up and tac the plates in..OR use them to move the motor forward or backward instead of moving the stockers...and i can definitely see the chassis stiffening benefit to them. what about if you're running a full accessory drive? they do bolt right to the motor but i assume you'd have to compensate with pulley spacers & such because of the thickness of the plates and then having to bolt your brackets on?
most circle track modifieds use em...normally front and rear of engine...makes engine r&r ez, priceless if (when) the car gets 'bent' cause regular mounts jam together ...front plate only may put too much strain on bellhousing and cause flex/alignment problems (55-57 chev had massive bells and still had flex-that why side mounts )...flex plates simplify accessory mounting cause you drill wherever and put a second ''bent flat bar'' brace on-done...pulley spacers usually not reqd.
downsides for street = no vibration/noise isolation, every screw and nut will loosen
well that's not nessesarily too good then...but not like this car will see 1,000 mile cruises after this is done...
i wonder if there'd be any real tangible benefit in a C4...as if would the resulting stiffness offset any further down the road issues, or would it put so much stress on the driveline that it might help to stress/break other components like the diff housing unless those too were properly braced. then again the less flex in that the better. i know the only real support it has is the c-beam which connects to the trans...and if the motor/trans are held in by those plates it ain't gonna move that much...
if you don't know what a motor plate is look like. My buddy rick is using one. He made this one by himself. Is is a 1/4 thick alumimun plate. It use to replace all the factory bracketry (alternator,tensioner and anything that is needed to be mount. People using motor plate because they need more space in the engine bay. As you can see how thick the factory bracket is.
if you don't know what a motor plate is look like. My buddy rick is using one. He made this one by himself. Is is a 1/4 thick alumimun plate. It use to replace all the factory bracketry (alternator,tensioner and anything that is needed to be mount. People using motor plate because they need more space in the engine bay. As you can see how thick the factory bracket is.
It has nothing to do with the engine mount.
funny,i was under the impression these were used to mount the engine to the frame so you could eliminate the stock mounts? that's what everyone else is getting at.