427 BBC Conversion FINALLY Started!!!
#41
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
also looks as if the mid plate mounts through the bellhousing bolt holes. wouldn't you then need to compensate for the quarter inch difference with a slightly longer input shaft or something? or would it still fully engage the converter? i just don't see how the plates couldn't interfere with that...essentially putting a 1/4" spacer between the motor and trans...
#43
Burning Brakes
wow
Didn't realize that was you i was picking the intake up from. Ambitious project! I'm goin' the other direction, understanding the limitations of the x-fire set-up, but figure if I can make it run relatively respectively it'll be fun. the car runs great, dead reliable, and handles, just needs more go-hence the modded manifold etc....
If the headers aren't coated you might consider it, every little bit helps, not to mention the life of the starter.
Eric
84 Z51 Auto
05 CBR Repsol Rep
00 TLR 1000
If the headers aren't coated you might consider it, every little bit helps, not to mention the life of the starter.
Eric
84 Z51 Auto
05 CBR Repsol Rep
00 TLR 1000
#44
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
yeppers that's me...and a big reason why the top end ws for sale...i'm simply going to have no use for it anymore. i think the single plane team G with an 850 will be just about right...
any other thoughts or experiences with auto trans/motor plates?
any other thoughts or experiences with auto trans/motor plates?
#45
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2006
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not a fully devoped idea, but thinking about the reinforcing bars on my 4x4 auto trans...bolt to the trans and engine block side mounts...might not need a rear motor plate with something like those?
#48
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
use motor plates...
run from block side mounts down through to trans down to diff? that would be a hell of a brace to cut & weld with no guarantee it'd work...
but from the block sides or even the plates down to the trans tail would keep it from flaxing that far back and relieve alot of stress i'd think...
what i'm most concrned about is using the rear mount plate and mounting up the auto trans...fronts obviously are no issue...and if all else fails i can just forget the idea and use stock mounts...but the motor plates seem like a good idea if i really wanna stiffen things up...
run from block side mounts down through to trans down to diff? that would be a hell of a brace to cut & weld with no guarantee it'd work...
but from the block sides or even the plates down to the trans tail would keep it from flaxing that far back and relieve alot of stress i'd think...
what i'm most concrned about is using the rear mount plate and mounting up the auto trans...fronts obviously are no issue...and if all else fails i can just forget the idea and use stock mounts...but the motor plates seem like a good idea if i really wanna stiffen things up...
#49
Burning Brakes
You can use the rear engine plate if you shim the flywheel a little to help make up some of the difference. Then you can shim the converter to make up the rest. We have run stuff like this in the past in very demanding conditions and have never had a failure. Hope this helps.
#50
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Deakins
You can use the rear engine plate if you shim the flywheel a little to help make up some of the difference. Then you can shim the converter to make up the rest. We have run stuff like this in the past in very demanding conditions and have never had a failure. Hope this helps.
Last edited by Fubar569; 04-02-2006 at 10:21 PM.
#51
Burning Brakes
The shims we use come from Jegs and are part number 890-399100. They are manufactured by TCI and are .030 thick. We generally would shim it out as far as we could and then make up the rest on the converter side. Generally with most high end converters they have you pull the converter out a set amount to assure that it is not bottomed out against the pump. We take this into account to determine what amount of shim to give the crank side and then how much we need on the converter side. I don't want this to get too long so if you have any questions just send me a pm and I can send you a longer one. Good luck.
#52
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
PM sent.
well looks like soem vacay might be opening up. don't want it to, but it may. hopefully i can make some expedited progress if so.
Still debating on the motor plates. seems like a plan if i can stiffen the rest of the car up to match.
Also, paging ski...got a few more questions for you.
well looks like soem vacay might be opening up. don't want it to, but it may. hopefully i can make some expedited progress if so.
Still debating on the motor plates. seems like a plan if i can stiffen the rest of the car up to match.
Also, paging ski...got a few more questions for you.
#53
Drifting
Member Since: Aug 2002
Location: Speedo Indiana
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Originally Posted by redrose
tony,
if fubar doesn't want the headers i'll kill to be second in line.
how did you make room for the blower drive--delete the rack and go to skid steer?...just curious cause i'm not planning a huffer, just street use,viper killer (one in particular)...steering looks like only major pita so far, any warnings?
if fubar doesn't want the headers i'll kill to be second in line.
how did you make room for the blower drive--delete the rack and go to skid steer?...just curious cause i'm not planning a huffer, just street use,viper killer (one in particular)...steering looks like only major pita so far, any warnings?
Fubar has sent me his shipping info. so the headers will be on their way to him shortly.
#55
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: Bremerton WA
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St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by Fubar569
also looks as if the mid plate mounts through the bellhousing bolt holes. wouldn't you then need to compensate for the quarter inch difference with a slightly longer input shaft or something? or would it still fully engage the converter? i just don't see how the plates couldn't interfere with that...essentially putting a 1/4" spacer between the motor and trans...
The mid plate is not 1/4 inch. It is pretty thin steel so it might not interefere with any of the transmission components. Worst case a couple of small spacers would fix it up. You would not have to run regular motor mounts with these. That would be a great benefit because it opens up a lot more space for headers... something you need the room for. And it stiffens the chassis.
You really need to look up the motor plates on the Art Morrison website if you are considering them. All this other talk and guessing doesn't help when a lot of it is not correct. Some of the later guys talking about the motors plates know how it works. It might be a good solution for you. It also might not be. You should look into it and be sure though.
Cory
Last edited by Cory@LS2PortWorks; 04-03-2006 at 05:20 PM.
#56
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
i'll gladly take those plates off your hands...i'm PMing my info now...
i ws simply concerned about the thickness of the rear plate, and i did research art morrison parts last night. i think they'll fit nicely...
the stock mounts will more than likely be gone, but i have other ideas for those bolt pads anyways
i ws simply concerned about the thickness of the rear plate, and i did research art morrison parts last night. i think they'll fit nicely...
the stock mounts will more than likely be gone, but i have other ideas for those bolt pads anyways
#57
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
money sent & deal done. Tony's the only one left to pay when he readies the quote.
weather supposed to get bad here...maybe it'll warm up for at least one of my days off this week and i'll be able to yank the 350 out for good.
weather supposed to get bad here...maybe it'll warm up for at least one of my days off this week and i'll be able to yank the 350 out for good.
#59
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DAY 3:
Final prep for engine removal
i have one question...
HOW DO I GET THE FLIPPIN C-BEAM OUT OF THERE?
it looks to be damn near impossible...i know it can be done. what is the best way to get it out?
also, any problems with pulling motor & trans in one piece?
Final prep for engine removal
i have one question...
HOW DO I GET THE FLIPPIN C-BEAM OUT OF THERE?
it looks to be damn near impossible...i know it can be done. what is the best way to get it out?
also, any problems with pulling motor & trans in one piece?
#60
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DAY....oh hell with it....DAY Something UPDATE:
Motor and Trans are OUT OF THE CAR!!!! finally the easy part is done and the hard stuff can begin. kinda forgot to disconnect shifter cable till a little too late. didn't break, but it WILL support the weight of a 700R4 pretty well
other then that, it wasn't anything a couple friends and a 30 pack of beer couldn't fix...had a couple here, went out for 50c drafts to celebrate, and woke up at my friends in the spare bedroom. overall a good night!
motor plates came in. rear will have to be radically modified to work around the drivers side firewall and extended to mate with the frame on both ends. fronts will have to have custom bracketry so as to not box in the front suspension bolts/pieces.
let the games begin my friends!
Motor and Trans are OUT OF THE CAR!!!! finally the easy part is done and the hard stuff can begin. kinda forgot to disconnect shifter cable till a little too late. didn't break, but it WILL support the weight of a 700R4 pretty well
other then that, it wasn't anything a couple friends and a 30 pack of beer couldn't fix...had a couple here, went out for 50c drafts to celebrate, and woke up at my friends in the spare bedroom. overall a good night!
motor plates came in. rear will have to be radically modified to work around the drivers side firewall and extended to mate with the frame on both ends. fronts will have to have custom bracketry so as to not box in the front suspension bolts/pieces.
let the games begin my friends!