any video's?

 

Nice! What clutch/flywheel setup are you using?

 

What the hell is that? I've never heard of it before?

 

We did a lot of homework on the clutch, because I had just assumed that it was going to be a Centerforce unit, but our Chief Engineer is an actual Professional Design Engineer who creates High speed assembly line equipment for clients such as Honda and Dupont(meaning his knowledge is 1000 times greater than mine), and he determined that the primary benefit of the centrifugal force with the Centerforce occurred above 5500 R.P.M., so in our application which makes 500 ft. lbs by around 2000 R.P.M., with a 5800 R.P.M. max, "Static" clamping pressure is far more important, so we selected a Ram PowerGrip with a static of about 2500 Lbs. which somewhere around 700 Lbs. more static, than the comparable Centerforce in price.

We also looked for hours and hour and days and days, but we could not find another clutch that was S.F.I. rated and declared suitable for 550 H.P. by it's manufacturer, as the Ram is, for $269.00

All the evidence suggests that the Ram is an exceptional value for a big inch motor that may be making north of 600 Ft. Lbs. at what many would consider low or mid-range R.P.M. values, where it's "Always On" / "Max@Zero" superior clamping grip is much more useful.

The flywheel is the good 'ol G.M. Performance Parts nodular(?) iron which is also S.F.I. rated, and is still only around $150.00, another great value.

We shipped the fly wheel to Scat to be bolted up to the crankshaft to be included in a precision race balanced rotating assembly. This was over 2 years ago and I have not actually bee able to put my hand on it with a 1/2 hour looking for it here, but my recollection is that the Scat balance card that came back with it said that they got the whole 523 rotating kit within 1.5 grams. For just under $200.00 that service will cost as much as 4 or 5 times more to get to a gram or less at a custom machine shop, so it is another exceptional value.




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Bill @ ZF-Doc has a great, simple technique for making super high Horse Power motor mounts.

Firstly you may recall that the early C-4's used the old style, laminated, rubber suspended, sandwhich type motor mounts.

Basically, you fill up all the air gaps or voids between the outer metal shells and the vulcanized rubber flex elements with 3M part#08609, "Windo-Weld", which is a super fast urethane used to seal/bond windshields into their frames on cars or trucks. The important part here is that the DENSITY and PARTIAL FLEXIBILITY of the cured "Windo-Weld" when added, (thus eliminating any airspace) is sufficient to allow these old style motor mounts to handle some ridiculously high H.P., like a 1000 or so, with excellent reliability, due to the ability of the Windo-Weld to absorb the kind of twist that would normally shred these things.

The key is to let the mounts sit for several weeks before installing them, in order to let the "Windo-Weld" completely cure into its most solid state while there is no pressure of any kind from any direction or any force, upon them.

This will also eliminate any potential for sagging that will occur over time otherwise.



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Edit... double post

 

Skruffy,



I looked at your pics on your CF home page. You should post those pics here too. This car is freiggen awesome.

Mike

 

They are still rubber mounts. Make a torque strap and save the science project

 

Thanks for all your kind words Mike.

I tried to load these up but I have not figured out the 3rd party pic. host thing nailed yet, so I thought I'd get them in there with the link, not sure why this forum does not allow a direct selection from within my own pic.files, the way it does for the album creation.

Anyway, I'm gunna work on it as soon as I can...

Been out doing test miles again today as I was thinking I might cruise up to the Corvette Coral at Mosport for the ALMS race there tomorrow. It will be broadcast on Speed. They let all the Corvette's out on the track at noon for "Parade" laps which is always a hoot.

With GT2 Corvette Racing doing better as time goes by, it's fun to go and cheer them on.


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We actually deleted a planned torque strap because we are exceeding the chassis capability to some undetermined degree, so we decided we should not shock the chassis with any excessive jolts of force that would invariably come when the engine reached the end of it's tether, if it was strapped or chained.

This ain't no small block.

The modified mounts provide a durable "Soft Edge" to the transfer and distribution of massive amounts of power and will retain their dimensional correctness for years(the old mounts had sagged almost 3/8 over aprox 12 years while it had the 468 in it), while providing a progressive, fluid like feedback to the driver as the rate of power is being fed to the chassis system.

The C-4 platform is quite capable of handling lots more power than it was produced with, however from an engineering standpoint, we felt it was wise to make it somewhat "Forgiving" at the upper levels we are reaching, in order to avoid undo harshness thresholds that solid connections could cause.



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Skruffy,

Here you go. Skruffys bad azz big block.

 

Solid mounts, maybe a 4 pt cage, motor plate/ better k brace setup will help?
with that said nice ride bet it moves out well

 

Sorry for delay in reply to this...

No vids yet at this point, however once I've got all the inner front liners, rocker panels, trim etc. all back on, we'll definitely put something up.

 

 

For those interested...

Posted couple more current pic's in this album.

http://alturl.com/n9zch

 

NICE!!!!!!

 

Way to stay with it

Looks good

 

New pic posted in this album.

http://alturl.com/n9zch

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Drive it yet ??

 

Total distance driven with "new" 523 C.I.D. is somewhere
around 3000 miles with maximum single trip legs of about
5 hours, and as indicated in text with latest pic post,
weekend trips with total drive time of about 15 hours.
Still sorting out some coolant issues, mostly due to trying
to make do with existing rad while breaking in the engine
and getting it to the point that it's not making so much
heat from the friction of new parts that do not yet have
established wear patterns.

This process requires patience, but considering there's
no budget right now for custom fabrication, don't really
have a choice. There's no doubt that internal friction is
becoming less and less with added drive time, so it is
much less sensitive to city driving and light to light, stop
and go that created a lot of heat when it was very fresh.
It's really liking the cool fall air now too, so hope to get
in a few more hours before the snow flies.

Using Shell Rotella T 15/40 with 1/2 container of Comp
Cams break-in ZDDP oil in a fully baffled, modified to hold
8 litres, GM oil pan.

Pic of the modified pan can be seen in album pics
attached to above posted link.


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