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Different years, makes, and models used different wiring arrangements to lock up the converter. Probably 20 or more viariations I have not seen any that locked up the converter in 1st or second gear. I "think" that one or 2 versions would allow for a possible 2nd gear lock up. I will look into it. I "think" factory first gear lock up would be totally out of the question. I will research both possibilities. I have tried to lock up 1st with a jumper harness for track testing and it did make the car lug and stall out. Most guys I have met (that claim to gain from locking t/c)seem to lock the converter at the 1000 ft mark or so. Usually around 100 mph assuming a 115-120 mph trap speed. The guys on TGO (in the diy prom section) have experimented a bit with this. I do plan to try it again on my car to see if it responds.
CFI_EFI is correct in how it applies. The ecm commands it based on the programming in the chip. Then the hydraulic circuit in the valve body trips a switch to finish the job.
When your foot is on the brake it is unlocked and when you dump the brake the converter flashes and then starts to lock. I have noticed on my playback tach that it would pull the motor down within 1 second of it starting to lock under full throttle in first. By then the speed is over 20 mph and its like direct drive in every gear after that. It feels like a transbrake going off on gear shifts - it just totally slams each gear violently. It takes 1 minute to rig a switch. Try it and report back your findings. Mine locked in first and so did peteK's try yours and find out.
P.S. I no longer have a lockup converter so thats out of the question under any circumstances for me anymore. If I remember correctly its the top left and top right pins in the ALDL connector that need to be jumpered together on a toggle.
I have not fiddled with my lock up in about 10 years. I have a new combination under the hood and will give it a try again this year. I will post results after I run the wheels off it.
I didn't read all the posts... but.. here is my opinion on eliminating the smog pump...
Only do it when the thing goes bad and you don't don't have smog tests in your city.
When mine went bad, I bought the pulley elim kit, and it was only $20 or so more than buying a new smog pump... so i was like..what the heck..i don't have any emissions checks in my city, i can gain a few horses, and boy does it make the engine look a LOT cleaning without all the extra crap. I pulled out the pump, several hoses, wiring, capped off the exhaust manifold tubes... it really cleans up the look of the engine without it.
so... that said... don't bother unless your's goes bad and you have to replace it with something.
CFI_EFI is correct in how it applies. The ecm commands it based on the programming in the chip. Then the hydraulic circuit in the valve body trips a switch to finish the job.
??? The hydraulic circuit in the valve body trips a switch? I thought an electrical current from the ECM opened a solenoid that opened a hydraulic circuit that engaged the TCC. The direct pressure that engages the TCC has to be hydraulic, right? It has been my belief that internal transmission hydraulics prevented (blocked the pressure) the TCC engagement in first gear. Both of you are making me question, what I thought I knew. Pete K. my question isn't one of programming, chips, or other switches, I would like to know if it is possible. CAN the TCC be engaged while the trans is in first gear?
??? The hydraulic circuit in the valve body trips a switch? I thought an electrical current from the ECM opened a solenoid that opened a hydraulic circuit that engaged the TCC. The direct pressure that engages the TCC has to be hydraulic, right? It has been my belief that internal transmission hydraulics prevented (blocked the pressure) the TCC engagement in first gear. Both of you are making me question, what I thought I knew. Pete K. my question isn't one of programming, chips, or other switches, I would like to know if it is possible. CAN the TCC be engaged while the trans is in first gear?
RACE ON!!!
When I made the last post, I was in a hurry. I could have been more clear. The solenoid has 12v ignition power. Typically the ecm commands a ground pulse that runs thru pressure switches. When they receive pressure from the port they are screwed into, they typically ground and complete the ground curcuit to the solenoid. As I mentioned thare are 20 or more different wiring arrangements that vary. Once the solenoid opens, it will complete the hydraulic circuit that will physically lock the converter.
To answer your question, yes, you can force a 1st gear lock up when you force the solenoid to ground. How simple a job to jumper depends on the wiring in the pan. I "think" this is possible on all 82-93 700r4's. The 86, 87 and 88 years will do it for sure.
I'm still too lazy to install my AIR pump elim kit... So what I did was remove the diverter valve(s), the rubber hoses, cut the valve harness connections and and bend the metal tubing back and forth til I broke it off. Did the same to the one that was connected to the main cat so I don't have any extraneous piping and crap left over. I am eventually gonna replace the check valves with bolts that have the same thread size as the check valves themselves. We don't have the EPA here to inspect for crap. I don't need that useless smog pump anyways because I have no cats. Anyways, I'll polish it one day so it can be a prettier decoration.
RAGE ON!!!
Last edited by kopbet89c4; Apr 25, 2006 at 08:10 PM.
To answer your question, yes, you can force a 1st gear lock up when you force the solenoid to ground. How simple a job to jumper depends on the wiring in the pan. I "think" this is possible on all 82-93 700r4's. The 86, 87 and 88 years will do it for sure.
Today is another great day. I learned something. As you can tell, I previously thought it was "impossible" for the TCC to lock with the trans in first gear. I do remember, a looong time ago, my TCC locked on my way to the trans shop for its first overhaul. The car didn't want to stop at a stop sign. I pushed extra hard on the brake and killed the engine. After I got it stopped, I had to start the engine as the car surged forward on the starter motor. I figured that it wasn't an electrical failure that caused this, but a mechanical failure. The shop said they had never seen one that was worse. All but two or three of the vanes in the front pump were broken. Then they remembered that I drove it in and they just shook their heads. Anyhow, thank you for taking the time to think it over and advise me.
When it is working properly applying the brake pedal disengages the converter lockup.
I just hope someone would just please jumper the top left pin and top right pin in their aldl connector with a toggle switch on various years and report your findings. It literally takes 1 minute. I know my 86 locked in first. let us know what it does on other obd I car years.
I checked my 95 Cadillac Eldo and it doesn't have the pins for the TCC installed they must have know I was gonna abuse it.