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Sure did, thanks CFI-EFI, I'll probably order one, then get some braided line and an adapter for the 02 bung. Just think it would be a nice tool, but not at the prices they want that I saw $116. plug for an actual back pressure guage.
Sure did, thanks CFI-EFI, I'll probably order one, then get some braided line and an adapter for the 02 bung.
It sounds to me that you are going to make a bigger production out of this than it deserves. When the muffler shop tested my back pressure to see if I needed a new cat, they burned a hole on the exhaust pipe, stuck a tapered piece of aluminum into the hole and had me rev the engine. Then they welded up the hole. I'm sure you can jury rig something up to closely match the 18 mm O2 bung, and hold it in place while your "lovely assistant" nails the throttle. You don't need any fancy, expensive, "braided line". First, that braiding is only the outer jacket. It protects the hose inside from external heat. Second, the rubber hose only needs to be on whatever you use for a fitting, for a few seconds. If you burn 1/4" of the hose, cut it off.
Originally Posted by rick lambert
Just think it would be a nice tool, but not at the prices they want that I saw $116. plug for an actual back pressure guage.
How much power do you think is left on the table at just under 6 psi?
This reading was at 6K in 2nd Gear WOT. I have no cats, but full exhaust with mufflers. I have known this to be a problem for some time, but have not attempted to resolve.
6 PSI is alot of backpressure, my guess is you are giving up 30 to 50 HP with that much backpressure. If you were to reduce the backpressure and retune the car I would expect a significant power increase.
The muffler shop testing my car for a plugged cat, said that anything over 3 psi, indicated too much back pressure and that I needed a new cat. Two things to keep in mind; my car was being revved in neutral, which generates a lesser volume of exhaust gases than when under load, at WOT, at 6000 rpms in second gear. The other is the motivation of the shop.
Looking back in my FSM, Tom said his stated you can check it at the A.I.R. Pipe, he is correct, you can check it at both..but the specs are the same. engine at idle should not exceed 1 1/4 psi. Accelerate engine to 2000 RPM, reading should not exceed 3 psi.If backpressure exceeds at either RPM a restricted exhaust system is indicated.
Wonder why they checked your at 6000 RPMs?
And bjankuski, sound like you really exceed 3 psi. of course I'm referring to specs for an 87..don't know if yours would be the same..check your FSM.
6 PSI is alot of backpressure, my guess is you are giving up 30 to 50 HP with that much backpressure. If you were to reduce the backpressure and retune the car I would expect a significant power increase.
I have been told prior that 2 psi is kind of the max in street/strip applications. I have been told that I am leaving 50-80HP on the table. I know that I am way past the 2 psi (or 3 psi) level, but that is what happens when you have headers feeding into twin 3" collectors, feeding to a single 3.5" oval in the center (no cat) then back to twin 3" Flowmasters. The motor is a 408 with lots of cam/heads/intake and a lot of boost.
A guy on the forum was selling 2" primary "home-built" headers and tru dual 3" exhaust. I did not bite because the back half of the exhaust is really no better than where I am today.
If I sell some more car parts, I would like to get some of the EM 1 7/8" headers and then try a single 4.5" oval center pipe into 3.5" Flowmasters. I would think this is a step in the right direction.
After reading this thread, I decided to check the back-pressure on my '92.
I bought two brass fittings at Lowe's, one 1/2" female pipe to 1/4" female pipe and one 1/4" male pipe to a 1/4" barb fitting for my gauge. Cost, about $3.
My A.I.R. check valves were easy to remove.
Even with the Northstar coil pak for the Delteq on the left valve cover, I didn't have to remove anything to take the check valves out.
Taking one check valve out at a time, it took about 10 minutes each to check the back-pressure.
The highest reading at about 3K rpm was less than 1.
My cats aren't plugged at 88K miles.
After reading this thread, I decided to check the back-pressure on my '92.
I bought two brass fittings at Lowe's, one 1/2" female pipe to 1/4" female pipe and one 1/4" male pipe to a 1/4" barb fitting for my gauge. Cost, about $3.
My A.I.R. check valves were easy to remove.
Even with the Northstar coil pak for the Delteq on the left valve cover, I didn't have to remove anything to take the check valves out.
Taking one check valve out at a time, it took about 10 minutes each to check the back-pressure.
The highest reading at about 3K rpm was less than 1.
My cats aren't plugged at 88K miles.
Tom Piper
Did you check it at WOT? You need to check for plugged CATS at WOT because that is when you are moving large amounts of exhaust, no load conditions do not move much exhaust.
Did you check it at WOT? You need to check for plugged CATS at WOT because that is when you are moving large amounts of exhaust, no load conditions do not move much exhaust.
Just a brief blip to 3K at WOT.
I have no intention of WOT in neutral for any length of time.
If that isn't enough, I won't be doing any more.
I guess you and I are the only one old enough to remember JC Whitney
CFI-EFI but that is interesting, I'll look.
Hey now! I still get the JC Whitney catalog, in fact, I orderd my outer door window seals from them, and to say that I was amazed/impressed with the quality of the part is an understatement. The only problem with JC Whitney, is it's a crap shoot when you get ready to order something from them.....are they gonna have it, or is it on indefinite "back order"?
I have no intention of WOT in neutral for any length of time.
If that isn't enough, I won't be doing any more.
Tom Piper
Tom,
Check the pressure at WOT while your driving the car, not in netural. Get on the highway pick a gear that is a safe speed and go to WOT from 2000 to 5000 RPM and see what the backpressure is. I quick blip to 3000 RPM in netural will not give you an accurate reading.
There is no question that a blip in neutral will not supply the volume of exhaust gases that a WOT run will, but that is how the muffler shop determined that I needed a cat. I wasn't in the car and I couldn't see the tach, but they did not rev it unmercifully. I would guess that 3000-3500 was about it. I was told that 3 psi back pressure indicated a cat was needed. Tom Piper observed less than 1 pound. My car had 15 psi. No wonder it had lost a second in the 1/4 mile.