C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Fuel pump

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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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Default Fuel pump

Hi guys, again I'd like to thank everyone here for the help I received in my last post. I beleive that my fuel pump bit the dust. Is it possible to kill a fuel pump because of low gas? I've heard this to be true, as the gasoline is used to help cool it, and once it is low it can overheat. The car starts for a second them immedatly dies. I took the intake off and sprayed gasoline into the intake plenum with a windex bottle while turning the key, and sure enough it started right up. So...does the tank have to be dropped to put in a new pump? Does the system have to be de-pressurized? I think I'm going to keep this car over the winter, fix what is wrong with it and send it on its way in the spring time. Thanks guys.

-Steve
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveJG
Hi guys, again I'd like to thank everyone here for the help I received in my last post. I beleive that my fuel pump bit the dust. Is it possible to kill a fuel pump because of low gas? I've heard this to be true, as the gasoline is used to help cool it, and once it is low it can overheat. The car starts for a second them immedatly dies. I took the intake off and sprayed gasoline into the intake plenum with a windex bottle while turning the key, and sure enough it started right up. So...does the tank have to be dropped to put in a new pump? Does the system have to be de-pressurized? I think I'm going to keep this car over the winter, fix what is wrong with it and send it on its way in the spring time. Thanks guys.

-Steve
....no, the tank does not have to be dropped to replace the pump.

1)....remove the gas door....
2)....remove the rubber around the gas filler neck....
3)....pull fuel pump fuse and start car until it runs out of gas...
4)....relieve any extra pressure at the fuel rail by depressing the
shrader valve...
5)....disconnect the battery...
6)....mark the hoses as to which port they go to on the "access plate"
to the tank and remove hoses.....
7)....carefully disconnect electrical connection plug...
8)....having fire extinguisher and hose handy,.remove
metric bolts attaching access plate to tank (8 bolts?)...
9)....VERY CAREFULLY manipulate the fuel pump assembly from
the gas tank. this will require a bit of twisting, but, do it
VERY SLOWLY as there is a sending unit that if
damaged, will most definitely put you in a bad mood!
10)...while you are in there, replace the "sock" filter at end of pump.
you will aslo need a new tank acess plate gasket available from dealer.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 05:16 PM
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The system is probably already depressurized. You will have to remove the gas lid (4 screws), remove the gas cap, and pull the rubber boot out to access the fuel pump assembly....place gas cap back on. Disconnect the 3 wire wiring harness. You will see three lines...one goes left (evaporation system), one on top goes right (fuel feed line), one one bottom goes right (fuel return line). Carfully loosen the clamps and rotate the rubber off the metal lines and place out of the way and stuff some cloth into them.

There are nine 10mm bolts that hold it down. Each has a o-ring around them. Replace the o-rings if any break or look bad (.35 ea). After they are removed you pull up on the fuel assembly neck and pull out the fuel pump. There is a gasket between the tank and fuel assembly flange....replace if torn. From there you just remove the old strainer and pull the pulsator up and remove the pump. You may have to rewire it and change a few things. I recommend installing a new strainer and sock while your there. May also want to install a new fuel filter since you ran it dry.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
The system is probably already depressurized. You will have to remove the gas lid (4 screws), remove the gas cap, and pull the rubber boot out to access the fuel pump assembly....place gas cap back on. Disconnect the 3 wire wiring harness. You will see three lines...one goes left (evaporation system), one on top goes right (fuel feed line), one one bottom goes right (fuel return line). Carfully loosen the clamps and rotate the rubber off the metal lines and place out of the way and stuff some cloth into them.

There are nine 10mm bolts that hold it down. Each has a o-ring around them. Replace the o-rings if any break or look bad (.35 ea). After they are removed you pull up on the fuel assembly neck and pull out the fuel pump. There is a gasket between the tank and fuel assembly flange....replace if torn. From there you just remove the old strainer and pull the pulsator up and remove the pump. You may have to rewire it and change a few things. I recommend installing a new strainer and sock while your there. May also want to install a new fuel filter since you ran it dry.
........ i didn't want to assume anything from a safety stand point. the gas cap removal is a "known and obvious to do thing"....i thought i mentioned "sock" in my post.....if he is replacing "part for part" and year specific, he should not have to "rewire" anything.....
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 05:22 PM
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Fuel DOES serve to cool the fuel pump, but one instance of running low on gas won't kill it. I unknowingly shortened the life of my first pump, by stretching out my gas stops. Too infrequent fuel filter changes can help reduce fuel pump life, too. Before you invest in a possibly unneeded pump, it would pay to do some trouble shooting.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Fuel DOES serve to cool the fuel pump, but one instance of running low on gas won't kill it. I unknowingly shortened the life of my first pump, by stretching out my gas stops. Too infrequent fuel filter changes can help reduce fuel pump life, too. Before you invest in a possibly unneeded pump, it would pay to do some trouble shooting.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Da Mail Man
........ i didn't want to assume anything from a safety stand point. the gas cap removal is a "known and obvious to do thing"....i thought i mentioned "sock" in my post.....if he is replacing "part for part" and year specific, he should not have to "rewire" anything.....
Posted my explaination before I saw yours Mail Man. I think both got it covered. I had to do a little rewiring on mine, due to the different connections at the pump.

SteveJG, make sure a fuel pump is what you need, as mentioned. Did you have enough gas in the tank, as mentioned in the other thread? Did you see if there was any pressure at the Schrader valve? By spraying gas into the intake, this pretty much verifies it a fuel delivery problem. You can also pull the pump and supply 12v directly to it and see if it does anything, before replacing. You should hear a humm for two seconds after the key is turned to "on". You can also use a hot wire from the pos battery to terminal G of the ALDL, this will send 12v directly to the pump until the wire is removed.

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-AC-DELCO-FUEL...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
Posted my explaination before I saw yours Mail Man. I think both got it covered. I had to do a little rewiring on mine, due to the different connections at the pump.

SteveJG, make sure a fuel pump is what you need, as mentioned. Did you have enough gas in the tank, as mentioned in the other thread? Did you see if there was any pressure at the Schrader valve? By spraying gas into the intake, this pretty much verifies it a fuel delivery problem. You can also pull the pump and supply 12v directly to it and see if it does anything, before replacing. You should hear a humm for two seconds after the key is turned to "on". You can also use a hot wire from the pos battery to terminal G of the ALDL, this will send 12v directly to the pump until the wire is removed.

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-AC-DELCO-FUEL...QQcmdZViewItem
......hey, no sweat!....2 heads are beter then one!
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 08:11 PM
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Thanks guys, your help is MUCH appreciated. I just glanced at the responses right now, but tommrrow will be going over them in depth, and will definatly troubleshoot before I replace. Thanks again!
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 08:49 AM
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http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Co...0View%2086.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Fu...mDiagnosis.pdf
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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"...I think I'm going to keep this car over the winter, fix what is wrong with it and send it on its way in the spring time. " Steve

Well, I for one, hope you replace it with another Corvette. Good luck with it.
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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Problem fixed, car runs excellent. This is a VERY strightforward swap. Very easy to do. As always, thanks for the help.
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveJG
Problem fixed, car runs excellent. This is a VERY strightforward swap. Very easy to do. As always, thanks for the help.
......and it was..............??
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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I have the same problem - have not replaced the fuel pump, but did change out the in-tank filter and sending unit to fix a gage problem. My starting problem always happens after driving in hard rain (like after driving in hard rain for 2-3 hours, or sitting in a parking lot through a severe rain storm) - takes 2 or 3 times to start and stay running - was thinking I'd get her in the air, replace fuel filter and check the motor grounds? After sitting for a few days with no rain, she starts up perfectly every time

Any special tools I need for filter change? Where are all the grounds to check?

Thanks,

Smash
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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SmashF15C
I have the same problem - have not replaced the fuel pump, but did change out the in-tank filter and sending unit to fix a gage problem. My starting problem always happens after driving in hard rain (like after driving in hard rain for 2-3 hours, or sitting in a parking lot through a severe rain storm) - takes 2 or 3 times to start and stay running - was thinking I'd get her in the air, replace fuel filter and check the motor grounds? After sitting for a few days with no rain, she starts up perfectly every time

Any special tools I need for filter change? Where are all the grounds to check?

Thanks,

Smash
I suspect no one answered you because you commited the sin of hijacking a thread. If you have a problem, start your own thread.
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