anyone using an msd crank trigger?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
From: Holliston MA
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Mos, a chassis dyno and an oscilliscope are what you really need. What are you using for an ignition box ?
I don't like having coil wires as long as what you've got.
Any chance of being able to borrow another distributor ? Even just a standard, non cam sync, to try ?
Was this happening before the flash update ? Did you have an older FAST system before the XFI ?
The RPM trace not getting weird throws a little bit of a wrench into things. The XFI uses the distributor output for it's rpm calculations. The tach gets it's input from either the ground to the coil or from the tach putput of the ignition box. If the distributors output was bad, or noisey you should see it in the rpm trace. Try logging the HR RPM when the ignition is breaking up. That's an unfiltered RPM
I don't like having coil wires as long as what you've got.
Any chance of being able to borrow another distributor ? Even just a standard, non cam sync, to try ?
Was this happening before the flash update ? Did you have an older FAST system before the XFI ?
The RPM trace not getting weird throws a little bit of a wrench into things. The XFI uses the distributor output for it's rpm calculations. The tach gets it's input from either the ground to the coil or from the tach putput of the ignition box. If the distributors output was bad, or noisey you should see it in the rpm trace. Try logging the HR RPM when the ignition is breaking up. That's an unfiltered RPM
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 270
Likes: 8
From: Gilbert, AZ
Originally Posted by SloRvette
It's because of the Opti. Delteq conversions still use the opti as a triggering device. They just take the spark transfer out of the cap.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
From: Holliston MA
Cruise-In VII Veteran
The opti puts out a different width signal for each individual cylinder. A standard type crank trigger can't do that. There needs to be a reference to indicate where to start the firing order with a multiple coil ignition system. You should check with Delteq. I seem to remember them working on a crank trigger setup for a couple of people.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 4
From: rome ny
Originally Posted by SloRvette
Mos, a chassis dyno and an oscilliscope are what you really need. What are you using for an ignition box ?
I don't like having coil wires as long as what you've got.
Any chance of being able to borrow another distributor ? Even just a standard, non cam sync, to try ?
Was this happening before the flash update ? Did you have an older FAST system before the XFI ?
The RPM trace not getting weird throws a little bit of a wrench into things. The XFI uses the distributor output for it's rpm calculations. The tach gets it's input from either the ground to the coil or from the tach putput of the ignition box. If the distributors output was bad, or noisey you should see it in the rpm trace. Try logging the HR RPM when the ignition is breaking up. That's an unfiltered RPM
I don't like having coil wires as long as what you've got.
Any chance of being able to borrow another distributor ? Even just a standard, non cam sync, to try ?
Was this happening before the flash update ? Did you have an older FAST system before the XFI ?
The RPM trace not getting weird throws a little bit of a wrench into things. The XFI uses the distributor output for it's rpm calculations. The tach gets it's input from either the ground to the coil or from the tach putput of the ignition box. If the distributors output was bad, or noisey you should see it in the rpm trace. Try logging the HR RPM when the ignition is breaking up. That's an unfiltered RPM
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 4
From: rome ny
i just finished with the crank trigger and em pully. install was fairly easy.
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.
i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..
thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.
now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.
i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..
thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.
now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
Originally Posted by mos90
i just finished with the crank trigger and em pully. install was fairly easy.
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.
i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..
thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.
now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.
i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..
thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.
now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 9
Originally Posted by mos90
i just finished with the crank trigger and em pully. install was fairly easy.
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.
i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..
thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.
now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
the pully lined up really close so it shouldnt be a problem. i had to buy a longer balancer bolt, about 1/2 inch to make up for trigger and pully thickness.
i took it out for a ride and BINGO no more misfires or timing fluctuation. did not throw and trouble codes either. so slo was right, the inductive signals were talking to eachother..
thanks everyone, ive been trying to solve this problem all summer.
now that its fixed i have to put the car away for the winter
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